Saiga .223

R

RedBowTies88

New member
On order from classic arms! Should be here monday or tuesday. I'm super excited and I have a few questions...


#1: This is my first new centerfire rifle. Is there any break-in procedure I should follow?

#2: Definitly going to get a pistol grip setup and stock (canno't be colapsing or foldable) I wonder about the pro's/cons of just changing the stock for one with a pistol grip and leaving the trigger group alone v.s. getting a stand alone type grip and moving the trigger forward?

#3: would like an ak type foregrip but as its just for looks im not willing to really spend any kinda money on it. Anyone know of a half decent one for very cheap? If not ill stick with factory.

Thanks,
Beech
 
No break in required. Field strip the rifle and clean out any grease or crud you may find, lube it well, clean the bore, then shoot it. It’s an AK, it’s reliable.

As for the trigger group, I have read that changing it as you say helps with the trigger pull. As is, the Saiga has a “less then desirable” trigger pull. Not gwad awful, but less then desirable. I did not change mine. I put some graphite grease on all the moving parts of the trigger group, and after 100 rounds or so it smoothed up to be acceptable.

I put a TAPCO forearm on mine. Not because the factory forearm was bad, but because I wanted one made in the USA. To use magazines over 10 rounds, you have to be 922r compliant. Easiest way to be compliant is change the forearm and use magazines made in the USA. Do not waste your time with ProMag magazines. They are junk. Spend a few dollars more and get magazines made by Sure Fire or SMG Tactical.

Lots of info on Saiga and 922r can be found at www.saiga-12.com
 
From my understanding you have to move the trigger forward in order to install the pistol grip. Compare pictures of an AK/WASR and a picture of the Saiga. You will notice the trigger closer to the msg release on the AK in order to have room for the pistol grip to mount to the receiver.

If you are going to move it you might as well looking into an aftermarket made in the USA trigger group to count toward your part count to stay in compliance with 922r.
 
There are also stocks the contain the pistol grip farther back.. as well as skelton type stocks that have that setup as well.

anyone know how hard it is to move the trigger group? I probably should sign up for the saiga forum but im already on too many forums to keep track of:o


also i would want a short style forend...the trapco is nice witht he rails and all but i dount ill mount anything on it anyway
 
I'd recommend the full conversion. Moving the trigger group up combined with a better stock (I have the Mako collapsible) makes the rifle much more comfortable to shoot and carry. The conversion is not difficult if you have mechanical skills and access to shop tools. Enjoy!
 
hmmm...that looks a little complex. I could proably handle it but im a little weary of going through with it...


I think i might try a draganov style stock first and see if that suites me...depending on how much i hate the trigger pull when i get it.
 
Mine came with Saiga skeleton stock. I replaced it with the Intrafuse. Several hundred rounds later, I put the skeleton stock back on. It was much more solid.
 
Congrats.

I am pretty sure that NJ is tough on what they deem Assault weapons so make sure your conversion stays with in the laws both federal and local.

The conversion is not too much more difficult that a thurough field strip. Watch the vids on youtube and make your own decision. There are trigger groups etc out there that come modified so you do not have to.

The trigger mods and moving is worth it as long as it is legal for your area. It restores balance and changes the entire gun. Tapco makes triggers that need modification but Mississippi Auto Arms and other vendors sell a drop in / modified G2 (tapco) trigger. Polish out parts that move against each other and you can get a real nice trigger.

The bolt hold open is not automatic.

Once done you can have a great rifle.
 
^ thanks man.

Looks like ill probably do the conversion.

Can anyone comment on how much $$ they have wrapped up in their conversion?
 
anywhere from a little to a lot!:D

DIY can cost less. I think that around 150$ should cover you with out too much problems.

If you want to waste a ton of time you can do whatever you want to one

762001.jpg


This is in progress but I really only have about

100$ invested Stock, trigger, brake and heat shield. Everything else is custom. $ in time though would make it cost off the charts as far as AKs go.

Shoots OK too. 10 rapid shots off hand @ 25yd... good enough for pins.

1strun.jpg
 
quick question, does the bolt hold open activate automatically after the last shot or is it manual only?
Click to expand...

The rifle’s bolt hold open is not automatic. But if you get a magazine from Sure Fire or SMG Tactical, the bolt will hold open on an empty magazine. I personally don’t like it because when you remove the empty mag, the bolt will slam shut. I disabled the magazine bolt hold open by rounding off the flat edge on the follower. Now the bolt will close even when empty. Your preference may vary.
 
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