S&W Trigger Help

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Nick_C_S

New member
Hi, I was thinking about putting this in the Smithy section, but it seems there's a lot of rifle stuff there.

I have a new Smith model 67-5. It is purely a competition gun and will see no self defense duty. I bought it new this spring, and immediately sent it to Apex Tactical for a trigger job, chamfered charge holes, and a fiber optic front sight.

I am pleased with their work - except - I do get the occasional light primer strike. With Federal primers, about 1 in 50 will result in a pierced/blown primer (no failures to ignite though). With Winchester primers, about 1 in 200 will fail to ignite. With CCI primers - well - I just won't bother using them for this gun. . . problem solved for CCI's.

So my question is (Finally !! :D): Is there quick and easy way to add just a little more spring tension to the trigger? I don't mind a heavier trigger pull - no problem there. I just need the pin to strike the primer a little harder, that's all.

Thanks,
- Nick.
 
A Randy Lee solution: When you reload and are priming turn the casing half way around a give it a second press.

Of course makes sure the main spring screw is tight. They do come loose.
 
Check the tension on the strain screw, if it's loose it can cause light primer strikes. I would also call them and ask what weight main spring they used, you might want to bump it up a pound or two.
 
Then if the strain screw is tight, chances are you need to go with a heavier mainspring. Ask them exactly what springs they switched out and to what weight. Personally, the only springs I change out on my revolvers are the rebound spring, and I don't bump it down very much because I don't want short stroking.
 
Nick_C_S said:
Is there quick and easy way to add just a little more spring tension to the trigger?
Click to expand...

Sure is. Cut a brass shim from one of your cases. Cut it to the same width as the mainspring. Unscrew the strain screw and install the shim between the strain screw and the mainspring. Tighten. Voilá.
 
Another suggesting similar to MR>BORLANDS is to take a spent primer and pry the anvil out of it, next back out the strain screw so that you can slide the primer case you just worked over and place it over the end of the strain screw and then retighten the strain screw, will give you the same effect as cutting the shim, but it's captured over the end of the screw.
 
Is the firing pin mounted on the hammer or in the frame? If it's in the frame, buy an extended firing pin and install it. It's a simple job, cheap and makes the gun much more (like 100%) reliable.
 
The firing pin is in the frame. Apex replaced it. I don't know if it's longer than the original or whatever, but they definitely replaced it. In the bag of returned customer parts is the original firing pin.
 
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