S&W Revolver Question

TEX

New member
What exactly are the differences between a "K" frame and an "N" frame. Both are listed as medium frames by S&W. I am comtemplating replacing my wife's older model 66 with a newer 7-shot 686 (4") modified for moon clips. I would like to have a companion pistol in .22 caliber (cheap to practice)that would have about the same feel size wise as the 38/357 686. It looks like the model 617 would be close, but it is listed as a "K" frame and the 686 is an "N" frame. I am not really interested in fine mechanical differences. I would like to know how close the grips, reach to trigger, etc. would be.

Thanks in Advance

TEX
 
I think you have your frames mixed up. The K and L frames are the medium frames, the N is the large frame.
The first med frame was the K but when the mod 19 was fed a steady diet of 357 mags, they started to wear out so they beefed up the K frame and called it the L frame. They are very simiar and should feel the same.

NJW
 
Tex,
I tried the same thing 18 months ago. The 617 is not a substitute for the 66, 686, 19 or any other L or K frame Smith. For the $400.00 plus price of the 617 you would be better served to buy .38 ammo or a reloading press. The 617, by itself is a fine little gun, but it is so far removed from it's larger brothers in feel and action, it is worthless as a substitute. I traded mine off for a $100.00 loss and was glad to be rid of it. I strongly suggest you find a friend that owns one and shoot it 5 or 6 times before you buy one. That being said, the 617 is based on the K frame the same as the 66 is. Grips are the same as both L and K frames and can be interchanged. Pull length on the 617 is the same as the 66, but because of some voodoo or bad karma, is completely different than the centerfire.

------------------
CCW for Ohio action site.
http://www.ofcc.net
Do what you C.A.N.

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Hal,
I have the model 17, which I believe is the predecessor to the 617, and also just purchased the 686. I don't see such a drastic difference as you describe. In fact, the frames seem almost identical to me. Of course, the shooting is completely different due to the calibers. No doubt, reloading light .38/.357 loads for the 686 seems to make more sense than purchasing 2 guns.
just my input.
ted
 
Ted,
Correct on the Model 17 or the Model 18. Both of them are no longer made, being replaced by the Model 617. The 17 was/is a .22 version of the .38/.357 Model 19, and was/is a great alternative to the centerfire and a direct substitute. The 617, while a really neat shooter, is a whole different story. Sorry, I should have pointed out the older K-22's as being a viable choice. I had more than a few people warn me before I bought the 617 that I wouldn't care for it as a cheap shooter for the 19, and you can see how well I listened ;) I have been searching high and low at the local dealers and shows for a pristine K-22 masterpiece for a reasonable amount. Kind of my own personal Holy Grail. I came close a few months ago, but the asking price was over $450.00, way too high for me. I should also add that my 617 was the 10 shot version and not the 6 shot. Really sorry about that omission, it makes a huge difference. I was happy with my 617 as a good little shooter, but 100% dissatisifed with it as a substitue for my 19. If you can find a 17, I would say that would be a better way to go. Sorry to be somewhat unclear in the first post.

------------------
CCW for Ohio action site.
http://www.ofcc.net
Do what you C.A.N.

http://thematrix.acmecity.com/digital/237/cansite/can.html
 
Man, that one got garbled too :(
Let me start over.
I bought a 617 18 months ago thinking I could duplicate the feel of my Smith model 19. I could only find the 10 shot version, so that is what I bought. Many of the people I talked to advised me to rethink my idea, most of them were sales people at the local gun dealers. They told me I would be unhappy if I wanted a direct substitute for the 19. Being the hard-head I am, I kept asking until I found one guy that said go for it. I bought it, took it out and shot it, and was real happy with it. I had a few minor problems with a rough bore that resulted in keyholes when I used plain lead, but copper plated rounds work fine. After a few hundred rounds of copper plated rounds, the bore smoothed out nicely. Life was good, the little 22 shot great. I was a happy camper. After 3 or 4 months, I started having wierd problems with both the model 19 and the 617. It got so bad that I quit shooting both revolvers for another couple of months. My shots were scattered all over the target, and at 7 yards, I even managed to miss the paper on a few. I'm no Elmer, but I'm no way that bad. Switching over to semi-autos for that few months convinced me that it was a problem with the difference in feel between the 19 and the 617. I can transition from a 1911 to a Ruger Mark II to a Smith and Wesson 22s to a Hi-Power to a Firestar pretty well. It only takes a few shots to get back into the grove if you know what I mean. I can also transition between my Smith N framed Model 29, and a Ruger Blackhawk, and either of my Smith 19's, one 6 inch and one 4 inch. A few shots and life is good. However, the 617, with it's funky indexing and bad ju-ju, just magnified the difference between it and the other Smiths. Maybe it was just a personal thing that applied to me only, but whenever I see someone ask about the Model 617, it brings back some pretty bad memories. There are a lot of other significant differences also in my case. My other Smiths are square frame and wear the oversize target grips. My 617 was a round frame and came with the rubber grips. I replaced the rubber grips with a set of Anerican Tradition wood w/rubber inserts, in the hopes that it was just the grips that caused the problem. Didn't help at all. It may be a different ballgame going from the round frame centerfire to the round frame rimfire than it was going square to round. After rereading my other posts, ugh! I came across as preachy and slam happy against the 617 and the 17. I didn't mean too. The 17 and the 617 were/are great little shooters. I was happy as a clam with my 617 and the way it shot. It did however start to cause me no end of trouble when I went the shoot cheap route.(.22 instead of .38). In my case, I got rid of the one .22 I owned and kept the 2 ( actually 3) .38/.357's. I use the Model 19 with my own reloads and shoot a little less. I would put around 200 rounds a session through the 617, and dollar-wise I figured that was the same as 50 rounds of .38 reloads. For me this has been the way to go. Of course YMMV as always. Sorry to be somewhat unclear in the above, and I hope this explains it a bit better.

------------------
CCW for Ohio action site.
http://www.ofcc.net
Do what you C.A.N.

http://thematrix.acmecity.com/digital/237/cansite/can.html
 
Hal, if you've decided that something in a previous post is garbled or you want to rephrase, you can edit it. Click on the little icon of the pencil and paper above your post.

By the way, I've been corresponding with S&W about the possibility of a stainless M18. Exact dimensions, and six shot cylinder. No heavy barrel or underlug like the M617.
They said that if they believe that they can sell 2500 units, they'll do a run.
If you're interested, check out the thread topics "Any interest in stainless/alloy variant of the S&W M18?" at both Shooters, in the Wheelguns area, or at Gunspot in the Revolvers area.

I had started the thread wanting an Airweight K-framed .22 trail gun. But, after hearing from others on site, and thinking about it for awhile, I've changed my mind to wanting it in all stainless.
Check it out!
:) -Kframe
 
K-frame,
yep, I edit more than my share of posts. For some reason that escapes me, I felt it better to repost than edit.
I have been following the topic you refer to. I'm the nut that wants Catherine Zeta Jones ;)

------------------
CCW for Ohio action site.
http://www.ofcc.net
Do what you C.A.N.

http://thematrix.acmecity.com/digital/237/cansite/can.html
 
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