S&W model 60

I

Ifishsum

New member
I'm helping my brother repair a recently acquired S&W model 60 in .38 spl. This poor little pistol apparently got stuck and someone (he's not owning up to it) tapped on the cylinder with a hammer or something to unstick it. I've fixed that problem (cylinder/ejector rod had backed out) and replaced the front pin/catch/spring and it works as it should, but a couple of the more persuasive "taps" went through the cylinder wall and now it has one tight chamber. Loaded rounds chamber fine, but the one chamber will be kinda sticky ejecting the fired round.

The cylinder doesn't appear cracked or compromised other than cosmetically, but my questions are:
1) Would it be safe to fire or should I have it x-rayed or something?
2) Can it be cleaned up by hand with a reamer?

Also, it appears from the schematic that the hammer stud is supposed to be pressed or otherwise secured into the frame. Is this correct, and how would it be resecured? The hammer often needs to be pushed forward a little to reset it when cycling DA and I think it's because the hammer stud isn't secure.

Appreciate any info provided.
 
What do you mean by "went through the cylinder " ? Do you just mean one chamber has been squeezed ? I repaired one that had a chamber greatly squeezed and fixed that by driving a series of larger and larger rods through the chamber !!!If it's minor a reamer might work. ...The hammer stud - to remove and replace is a big problem.You might be able to tighten it with a center punch.
 
Yes, it's squeezed a little. The dents went through, very lightly. I can see them now that it's clean, and it's difficult to insert a fired case in that cylinder and the brass comes out marked.

As for the hammer stud, it was detached when I opened it up and from the wear marks looks like it has been for at least awhile. The pin has kind of a thick washer with ribbed edges that fits into a recess in the frame. The pin and washer are still connected, but not to the frame. Could I peen it back in somehow?
 
You might talk to S&W about the hammer pin ,it really requires a special press to install correctly.
 
On the chamber, I think Mete has the best method. You could just ream it, but the cylinder wall will be thinner than it should be. You would know that and stick to moderate loads, but if you were ever to sell the gun, the new owner could run into trouble.

On the hammer stud, I assume from your description that it is the new type that just fits into the frame rather than going completely through like the old ones. If you don't want to send it to S&W, you might try just using a good metal glue. The stud would still be supported on both ends.

Jim
 
I'll have my son turn a steel rod and I'll try to iron out the dent. What kind of glue would work well for stainless? I don't think my brother would send it in to have it fixed for a long time, so it's probably worth a try. It does not go through the frame.

Thanks for the help Jim and Mete.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top