S&W Model 28 Questions

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Webleymkv

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I have a S&W Model 28-2 Higway Patrolman that I like very much. However, the trigger is significantly heavier than other S&W revolvers that I've tried. I know that several police forces tend to prefer a heavier trigger on their issue autos (particularly Glocks) and wondered if, since the Model 28 was primarily marketed to police departments, it came with a heavier trigger than its cousin the Model 27. If so, could I use a spring for a Model 27 in my Model 28 and therefore lighten the trigger?

Also, I'd like to know about when it was made. The serial number is N510xxx.
 
I purchased a new Model 28 about 30 years ago and the trigger was not any heavier than my other S&W's. AFAIK it uses the standard trigger return spring. You can cut a couple of rings off the spring to lighten it but make sure it will still return trigger forward. This is an easy replacement and very inexpensive. Brownell's sells lightened mainsprings and trigger springs in kits for the S&W N frames. I have used them in S&W revolvers (about 10-12) for myself and friends for years.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB
 
I don't believe that S&W designed the 28 to have a different weight trigger pull than the 27. I've owned both (still have the 28) and the trigger pulls on both seemed about the same. Individual differences, if any, can be attributed to the usual variances associated with manufacturing tolerance limitations.

Keep in mind, the 28 (the "Highway Patrolman") was introduced in the fifties, an era far removed from today's litigation happy, no personal responsibilities mind-set. Bottom-feeding trial lawyers would have encountered only derision from the public had they been foolish enough to have sued a cop or his agency/municipality for using a handgun having a too light trigger pull during those far saner times.
 
Regarding the lightened spring kits, remember what Bill Jordan said in "No Second Place Winner"-"positive ignition is more important than weight of pull."
 
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S&W introduced the Model 28 in April of 1954. The 28-2 variation occured in 1961 and, in 1969, a change was made to N serial prefix. Your's should have a counter-bored cylinder and a pinned barrel as these features were eliminated in 1982 and dubbed the 28-3. The Model 28 was discontinued in 1986.
As an aside, I much preferred the S&W practice of naming their handguns as opposed to the later numbering system. The Highway Patrolman, the Chief's Special, the Combat Magnum, for instance, sound way more cool than their equivalent model nos. of 28, 36 and 19.
 
Sigshr makes a good point. Make no change to a firearm that will reduce its functionality. Note that I have NEVER had a misfire with any of my S&W's using the "reduced power mainspring and trigger return spring" from Brownell's. They still give plenty of snap for my handloads using Win pistol primers. However, design of the S&W N, K, and L frame pistols does allow replacing the trigger return spring only if you want to maintain the factory mainspring (hammer spring). Just my .02.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB
 
I agree that reduced functionality isn't worth a lighter trigger. If I had misfires, I'd probably change it back. Thanks for the dates dgludwig and Gregg.
 
"positive ignition is more important than weight of pull."


Luckily, with Smith and Wesson revolvers, the design allows you to significantly reduce the trigger pull weight without affecting the reliability.

Changing the rebound slide spring for one in the 13 to 15 pound range can work wonders.

You may run into some problems with the lighter spring giving rough or slow trigger reset, but some internal polishing and good lubrication will usually cure that problem 100%.


I've changed out springs, rebound slide and main, on around 100 S&W revolvers, my own and those belonging to friends. In only two cases did the springs cause reliability problems, and those were easily solved with action jobs on the internals and nice, slippery, lubes.
 
Also remember that springs are only one component of the firing system. A good pistolsmith performs what NASA calls a "system check"-he looks as the
firing system as a whole, then goes over each part in sequence. I recall reading an article by J.B. Wood in which he noted that friction between the hammer and the sideplate and frame can contribute to a heavy pull. In my case I also have a 4" S&W M-27-2 with an action job-when I finally removed the sideplate I could see the insides of the sideplate and frame had been polished.
 
I have seen some improve their trigger and actions with toothpaste. It works. My first thought is that there is some gunk in the works. Brake parts cleaner should dissolve gunk. If the trigger is still heavy/sluggish, I would remove the sideplate and again flush with brake parts cleaner. Observe the internal action and there might be signs of rubbing or friction. I would then spray a Teflon oil (even cooking spray) and reassemble, dry fire 1,000 times, reclean and relube. If there is still a problem, gunsmiths make a living at figuring out what is wrong with mechanical actions. I dare say that accumulated gunk is the culprit though. I have had metal shavings turn up in the trigger rebound though.
 
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