S&W Model 28 failure to extract

R

riverdog

New member
Took my definitely used M-28 to the range today and was pleased with the trigger and overall feel of the pistol. I was shooting factory 158 gr/1000fps lead SWC, not a hot load, recoil was easily managed. The first two cylinders shot just fine and extracted easily. The third cylinder was tight but they extracted. The fourth cylinder ... did not want to extract -- it would not move. Eventually, after a bit of gentle coaxing it did extract and I was able to remove the spent shells, but that was it for the M-28's debut range day with me. It's obviously not a new gun, but it's in relatively good shape. Any ideas what the problem could be? TIA.
 
Lead buildup in the cylinder?

Clean the cylinder thoroughly. This is one of the few times I would use an old brush attached to an electric drill. Polish each cylinder chamber with that old brass brush and then inspect to ensure no remaining lead deposits remain. That may help.
 
Some guesses.

Using good quality factory ammo rules out some of the things that come to mind. However, lead bullets are lubricated and this means dirty chambers. A 158 gr. lead bullet at 1000 fps is a +P in .38 special caliber. Maybe the cases are getting stuck in the lube and crud in the chambers?

How fast were you shooting?
How much time between reloading the chambers?
How hot (warm) was the cylinder when you tried to extract the empties?

I agree that the firearm itself shouldn't be the cause unless some nitwit did something stupid like trying to polish the chambers and didn't get them perfectly cylindrical. I don't mean with a brush, but with abrasives , stones, or a reamer.

I hope you get it figured out. The N-frame S&W is almost indestructable in .357 chamberings.

Neil Casper

[Edited by Cat on 01-28-2001 at 12:09 AM]
 
Thanks for the quick response.
Cat: 1. Slow fire, single action, (25 yard 3" group, shoots a little high)
2. Hand loading, no speedloader, so...
3. not fast enough to really heat things up on the outside of the cylinder.

Hoppes and patches started pulling little pieces of lead out of the cylinder chambers on initial cleaning after getting it home, so I already moved to the brush. I suspect your initial assessment and mine agree and its just lead in the chambers. My cleaning on bringing it home from the gunstore before shooting didn't involve brushes, just Hoppes. The lead in there could be old and just needed to be warmed up some to start causing problems. My adding new lead didn't help. For the time being, I'll stay with manual brushing (I wouldn't trust me and a power tool with your gun) and shoot copper jacket next time out ... tomorrow.

The 158 LSWC was in new Winchester .357 cases. I checked the brass and it looked fine. This is the stuff distributed by Milwall at gunshows. Normally its good ammo and I haven't had any problems with it through either of my Rugers or with my M-29 with their .44 Magnum load (240grLSWC/1000fps).

Thanks again.
 
Riverdog,

Since it is used there is also the chance that someone ran a lot of .38 Spec. through it. The build up of crud from that will lock a .357 case up fast. A good scrubbing of the cylinder should fix it though. A few swabs with Hoppe's isn't going to do it if the lead and crud is old and hard. Elbow grease and a brush are called for.
 
Not that it matters, but I just bought a Model 28 myself. I have a facination with big .357s. I still want a Redhawk in .357. Havne't shot my 28 yet. I could bring it home without doing the multiple sale sheet.
 
One of my local dealers just bought the guns from an estate. He called me and told me that one of them was the Standard Model Hi-Power with adjustable sights that I had been looking for. I went down and ended up with that, a Glock 17, and the Model 28. The Model 28 is mint for $225.
 
I remember the previous post regarding the .38Spl ring in .357 chambers, but I didn't see one previously but that doesn't mean it wasn't there. Now that I've taken a brass brush to them, they look real good. I took some previously fired .357 brass and they slipped right in and didn't hang up on anything until they were fully chambered. At this point the next step is another range outing. If it happens with jacketed bullets then there's a problem. Tomorrow I'll run it head-to-head against my Ruger KGP-161. That should make an interesting test.

The N-frame .357's are nice revolvers. Besides this M-28 there's a real nice M-27 Nickel guarding my safe. That is a great shooter too, but its almost too nice to shoot.

Thanks for all the input. It was good to see all the advice matching what I saw on the patches. It really doesn't take a lot of lead to cause the brass to stick.
 
You an' me, Mr. Irwin

I also have 4" and 6" M28. The 6" is the 4th one of that type I've had. The previous three always got sacrificed to make a deal on something that (at the time) I wanted more. A couple years ago, I decided that if I was thru selling or trading. If I can't afford to make a deal and buy it without a trade, then I can't afford it, period.
 
I've had good luck cleaning leaded chambers with a Lewis Lead Remover.

BTW, I also have a 6-inch Model 28. It is truly a great gun--very well made and easy to shoot. And to think, this beauty was once considered an "economy" model! Mine just needs a 4-inch little brother. ;)
 
Rusty, I'm fairly sure it was lead in the chambers. The ejector itself feels fine with or without brass. Once it finally freed, there was no residual sticking. Test will come during the next range session. Didn't go yesterday due to other committments, but soon.

Thanks for all the inputs.

[Edited by riverdog on 01-29-2001 at 08:41 PM]
 
Finally ... got back to the range

Absolutely no problems. Shot both copper washed .38 Spl 147gr. WC target rounds and .357 158gr. HP/XTP. Groups were still good at 25 yards and no extraction problems; a little lead removal was all it needed. This revolver is definitely a keeper and will probably go to Robar for a new finish, I think its worth the $$. Thanks again for the good words of advice.
 
ME TOO

I to have a Smith & Wesson 28-2 with a 6" barrel that is
pinned, and recessed chamber's.:) I just love those
big Smith N-frame .357 Magnums.:D

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, Life Member N.R.A.
 
FWIW, for my .357 revolvers, I load everything in .357 brass, even my low/medium speed target loads, mainly to avoid the lead ring left by .38 special brass.
 
RIVERDOG,

Have you tried reloading, yourself? I find a lot of satisfaction in working up the RIGHT load for a handgun. And, I do NOT trust handloads by other people! Even re-manufactured ammo! That Model 28 is a great gun. I'm sure you'll have fun with it.
 
Doug, long story ...

I have always saved my brass and have a few coffee cans full of .38 Spl, .357 brass and .44 Mag brass (as well as a bunch of .45 ACP, .308 and 30-06 brass). Suffice it to say that within a couple years I will move and start reloading again.
 
Dirty chambers do not take too much heat to grab a casing. Lewis Lead Remover is routine maintainance, especially when shooting .38s in a .357.

The brass brush on the drill should do ya. The chambers really need to be kept clean.
 
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