S&W Model 27

I've been on a Patton kick in recent years. Having acquired a 2nd gen Colt .45, and a Colt Model 1903, I am now in search of a S&W model 27 in .357.
I've not been in the S&W game long and would like to know if I need to be searching for a $1000+ pre-lock model, or if I'll get the same performance and longevity out of an $800 new model. Any horror stories being cranked out by S&W and their new stuff that I need to know about?
 
The new model 27's are part of the new Classic series...and overall, I am not impressed with them.../ a buddy bought one, and the trigger in it is not as smooth as the older model 27's I have --- and I think its because the internals are quite a bit different. His is about a year old ...and he doesn't shoot it much ...and while it may clean up a little over time, it will probably take an experienced S&W gunsmith to stone some of the internals to make it feel smoother. The finish on the new models is not nearly as deep a blue as the older ones either.

If I were you ...I would try and find a good used older model ..( all of the 27's are .357 Mag by the way ).../ the old ones were available in blued or nickel / the new ones are only available blued. ( I have a model 27-2 4" Nickel and a 27-2 6" blued )...they are some of the best revolvers I own.

There are also the new model 627's - stainless..and they have a couple of different versions...some Performance shop some pro models.../ I like the performance center models in 2 5/8" and 5" barrels...( and I have one of each )/ but they are a very different look and 8 shot ...they're also full of MIM parts ...and while I had to clean them up a little internally when I got them, the triggers were pretty good.
 
Thank you for the advice. Aside from the out-of-box trigger, different levels of blue, and the safety, are there any functional/mechanical differences between them?
I just bought their new line of Model 21-4s in .44 spec. and have noticed that holster wear emerges much quicker than on my older model 19.
 
Internally - they are very different mechanically.

Yes, I am not surprised that the newer guns finish wears much faster than the older models...and the finish on the older model 27's was even better than it was on the model 19's.

Nickel finish will hold up much better to holster wear...but of course stainless is even better ( model 19's were available blued or nickel - the 66's are stainless ..but very similar K frames )...there wasn't a stainless version of the 27's like there was with the N frame model 29's ( the 629's )....the 627's are very different.
 
I've been on a Patton kick in recent years. Having acquired a 2nd gen Colt .45, and a Colt Model 1903, I am now in search of a S&W model 27 in .357.


If you are looking to replicate Patton's pistols, you will need a Colt SAA .45 Colt, 4.75" barrel and a S&W Registered Magnum, .357 Magnum, 3.5" barrel, with grip adaptor, gold bead front sight, "u" rear sight, sighted at 15yds when it left the factory in 1935 (per Patton's request).

Patton later had both fitted with custom IVORY stocks with his initials (GSP).

Personally, I would accept a PRE-80s model 27 with 3.5" barrel as a reasonable substitute for the Registered Magnum. They're scarce, but not nearly as scarce as 3.5" Registered magnums.

An 80s gun or later, without the pinned barrel and recessed chambers would not, to me, be acceptable for replicating Patton's gun. And NOTHING with Pearl grips, a LOCK or a frame mounted firing pin!!!

The last I knew, Patton's guns were on display at the West Point museum.
 
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