S&W model 15 question

mvdemarco

New member
Is the original model 15 as high quality as the latter versions 15-1, 15-2 etc...? Looking at an old model 15 in mint condition and need some advice.

Thanks,

Mike
 
It's difficult to compare a nice older 15 with later models. If it is indeed mint and also with diamond grips then it's relative value would be $50 to 75 more. If it's not a 'pre' model I would think 250 or so would be a fair price. The 15s don't have wide collector interest but I think they are a good overall piece. FWIW, not much most of the time.....dewey
 
Most certainly!

The fit and finish of the older S&W revolvers are marvelous.
Depends on how old, I suppose. If it is marked "M-15" it wsa made in the '50s or later. Still, it's a great revolver. It is built on the same frame and design as the .357 Model 19.

They are not "rated" for +P rounds because there were no +P rounds in those days. But they've been used with high pressure loads for years with no problems.

They are the Rolls-Royce of 38 Special revolvers.
 
I would just like to say....The M-15 can not hold up to+P loads! I somehow acciently mixed a couple +P loads into my wife's normal light 38s this weekend. After the first one I thought to myself "wow that was loud coming from her gun." The second shot was even loader as the the top half of the cylinder was blown apart, the 3rd round also wentoff out of lockup. My wife was lucky and just just barely grazed my the rear sight blade as it went sailing across the room along with parts of the back strap.

These were not even hot +P loads. I just traded in her M85 for this Model 15, 2 weeks ago and up until now she loved it. :eek:
 
tator

I don't want to sound like I am doubting your story but something sounds wrong here. I learned to shoot on M15's in the Air Force and they are good guns. A normal M15 would NOT come apart like that with just a few +P loads. It is possible that this was a rare defective gun or that it had been abused in the past. Either of these situations would be the exception, not the rule.

+P loads ARE by definition hot. But a normal S&W revolver will handle them on an occasional basis. What kind of powder and bullet were you using? IIRC, instances of this happening in the past involved double charges of fast-burning powder such as Bullseye, or grossly over-loaded rounds which greatly exceeded maximum pressures.

Do you have plans to have this gun examined by S&W or by another competant authority? If I had a gun come apart like that I would definitely want to know why.
 
Holy cow!:o I hope the two of you are OK?:) That definitely sounds like an ammo problem, not an issue with the gun. I would not hesitate to fire factory +P in any steel K-frame with a model number(i.e. M-10, as opposed to the M&P). If you were using factory ammo, then you should get ahold of the manufacturer in question ASAP.
 
The Model 15 is also known as the Combat Master Piece and the stainless version is known at the Model 67, the Model 66 is the .357 mag version of this venerable old line of revolvers. Any of the K frame Smiths should stand up to a lifetime of plus P shooting, these weren't reloads that caused you K frame to come unglued was it?

7th
 
I`ve put thousands of rounds through my Model 10.

I was surprised that happened unless you had a double loaded round which can happen. Thank goodness it`s rare. Glad your wife wasn`t hurt.

I don`t know if it`ll help but I would notify the ammo manufacturer and tell them their rounds blew up my gun.
 
Hmmmm...............

In reviewing this thread, I see that I somehow got the impression that tator was using handloads. However, he said nothing at all concerning whether these were factory or handloads. This is certainly a consideration.
 
loads

Yes these were hand loads. I haven't went to check what the load I was using was. I still have

From memory it was the standard +P load. 4.8 gr W231 for 125 gr JHP.


I use a Dillon 550b re-reloading and don't believe I did a double charge as I go very slow and check powder wt. and others every 10 rounds or so.

BTW there are still 2 unfired rounds in the bottom of the cylinder, I am try to remove them and weigh the powder.
 
Tator

Please let us know what you find when checkin the unfired rounds.

Also look for high primers in the unfired pair and in others that you have loaded.

If you find nothing amiss and decide to send the broken gun to the factory. Get a gunsmith in your area to look at it first. And take pictures documentaing the breaks, metal condition at the broken edges etc etc.

Reason for thorough documentation is that in one recent instance, evidence vanished at the factory.

Sam
 
mod 15

Well I still haven't had time to investigate the rounds unfired rounds but have replaced my Mod-15 with a Tracker (Ti). Its what the wife picked out and got a good deal....

So full circle.....

M85->Mod 15->Tracker

So with the good deal on the tracker and differences in trading the m85 for the mod 15 and it dying...I spent the same as a new tracker....guess I should have bought it in the first place.
 
tator...

Frankly, I am mystified as to why you have not made this investigation a prime focus of your life. If I had a gun blow up on me or my wife, or another member of my family, as you described, I would be moving heaven and earth to find out why.

I just spoke to Customer Service at S&W and they stated that the use of +P ammo will not cause the gun to blow up. The man I spoke to stated that the most likely scenario is a squib load lodging in the barrel followed by another round.
 
Sumpin else to look for.......if it was fired with a bullet already in the barrel.......should show some bulging in the barrel.

Sam
 
So what's the difference between a Model 14 Masterpiece and the Model 15 Combat Masterpiece ? I posed a question regarding use of +P in my Mod 14 and was warned to use standard pressure ammo only. From this thread it sounds like +P should be fine.
 
Riverdog, the Model 14 is the standard .38 Spec. target model, with a six inch barrel. Great shooters. I doubt that Plus P rounds would hurt it.

Tator, I don't know what happened to your Model 15, but that was the standard issue handgun with the Los Angeles Sheriff's Dept., for many years. The last round they used before going to the Beretta 92FS, was the Federal 110 gr. JHP, a "Plus P" round, although not designated as such. (Had to be politically correct, for the Marxist crowd in L.A., who felt that if a cop had to kill a puke, it wasn't nice to kill him "too" much.) Federal guaranteed that .38 Spec. round from a four inch barrel at 1250 FPS. That round was the duty round, and no Deputy was allowed to carry anything other than that round, both in his service revolver, his backup .38, on or off duty.

LASD had nearly 10,000 of those Combat Masterpieces, and I never once heard of one blowing up, using factory "plus P" ammo.
Not that there can't be a flaw in the metal or something of that order, but a squib or double charge, can definitely ruin a fine revolver.

Hope you determine what caused your problem... and loss of a great revolver.

FWIW. J.B.
 
Actually the revolver was ripped apart from the back of the cylinder forward. The barrel is perfectly fine.
 
Question about the +P in the Model 15. Everyone seems to say use it but the manual I have from S&W says only use +P in gun made after 1958. Are you guys saying it's OK to use an occasional round of +P in my 1955 Model 15? I just bought it and really like it. I too was thinking at the time I purchased it that +P was OK.
 
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