Hey I'm new to the forum but have been reading posts on here for the last few months and am sincerely impressed with the amount of knowledge out there. I have several handguns that have been given to me as gifts or by members of the family but I'm finally taking the plunge and purchasing my first. I am a very traditional type when it comes to firearms and want something that has historical meaning, yet can still be fired at the range and that i wouldn't be hesitant to reach for as a means of self defense. With all of these factors I think I've narrowed it down to the S&W Model 10. While it's not my desired .357 it fits my criteria nicely. I am open to suggestions for anything else that might fit what I'm looking for but I'm curious to what particular model year would be the best and it's price as far as the Model 10 is concerned. I really like the "Victory" models but don't know their availability or price range for one in good condition. Thank for the help!
S&W Model 10?
- Thread starter Cards_fan
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dnsharpshooter
New member
the Model 10 is .38 special not .357 mag. a .357 mag can fire .38 special but NOT the other way around. The .357 equivelent of the model 10 would be the Model 13 I think, someone correct me if I'm wrong. buds gun shop has model 10 police trade ins for $269 right now, square butt or round butt. i bought a square butt version, and its an awesome gun. accurate, recoil is mild, and feels great in the hand.
Zhillsauditor
New member
I'm not sure that any particular version of the model 10 is more highly valued than another. Typically, when I am interested in a gun I check out completed auctions on Gunbroker to see what people are actually willing to pay for them. The Smith & Wesson forum is a good place for detailed information.
I do not own a model 10 myself (yet). If the model 10 fits your hand, you will probably be happy with any k or L-frame revolver. The police trade in model 10s at Buds have been very popular. J&G Sales (http://www.jgsales.com/handguns-c-16_211_431.html) has model 64s for sale cheap too (the stainless steel version of the model 10).
Winchester_73
New member
There were a limited number of model 10s made by S&W in the 60s before the model 13 in 357. I believe these were special ordered by the NYPD IIRC. These are in a specific SN range and marked model 10, and 357 mag. I'm not sure which dash (-) this would have been as I don't have my book with me. The model 13 is the M&P K frame 357 in blue or nickel while the 65 is its SS cousin.
Shotgun693
New member
I used a M13 when I went through the Police Academy in '77. I just retired and bought a M65, 4". It's a really nice carry gun and with 6, .357 rounds it'll take care of me anywhere I'm going.
I like my M10-6. I stumbled upon it on a consignment sale at the range we shoot at. Has the heavy 4" barrel and looks just like what I carried the majority of my military career. Turned out later that the serial number puts it as a 1968. Just happens that the ones I carried in the Army were from the late 60's. Hard to beat the M10 work horse for a nice multi purpose revolver. Although, like my wife's jewelry, you cannot have to many toys.
If you want a more "historical" Model 10, look for one of the older "5 screw" models. They were, for the most part, called M&P's back then, the Model numbering system not coming in until about 1957 or so.
I used to have several but over the years have sold them all except this 1955, 2", 38 M&P. It's been fired a few times but shows almost no wear. (There is a 4th screw behind the grip panel, and a 5th in front of the trigger guard.)
If I wanted a shooter, a little wear and tear wouldn't bother me, but I also wouldn't worry too much about what year or "dash" model it was. I'd just look for one in good mechanical condition and shoot the fire out of it.
I used to have several but over the years have sold them all except this 1955, 2", 38 M&P. It's been fired a few times but shows almost no wear. (There is a 4th screw behind the grip panel, and a 5th in front of the trigger guard.)
If I wanted a shooter, a little wear and tear wouldn't bother me, but I also wouldn't worry too much about what year or "dash" model it was. I'd just look for one in good mechanical condition and shoot the fire out of it.
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It seems that just trying to find one in the best condition is the consensus and advice I should probably follow. If I can get one of the older ones great but maybe that should be just a bonus as it seems a lot of them are in rough shape. CajunBass your right I should have titled this M&P but the Model 10's have so many names (pre-model, M&P, pre-war, victory model) I didn't know where to start haha.
MarkDozier
New member
Yes they are. A 4" model can be had around 270.00. The 6 inch pencil barrel I saw yesterday was much more then that.
Doug Bowser
New member
Be sure you don't wind up with a British M&P Hand ejector in .38 S&W caliber.
Doug
Doug
Any M&P prior to 1957 is not, by strict definition, a Model 10.
M&P and Victory models made prior to 1947 will have the older long action, for which parts have not been made in several decades, and S&W will not service them.
Aside from a transition period after 1947 when older parts were used up in making some new M&Ps, post-'47 M&Ps will have the shorter action. Major parts are not interchangeable.
Roughly 10 or 12 years ago the Model 10 had its firing pin moved from the hammer to the frame, those parts are not interchangeable.
Parts & service for the hammer-pinned guns will be drying up, but right now you can still get them worked on if they fall between 1957 and when the change occurred (I've never bothered to chase down the exact transition date there).
Denis
M&P and Victory models made prior to 1947 will have the older long action, for which parts have not been made in several decades, and S&W will not service them.
Aside from a transition period after 1947 when older parts were used up in making some new M&Ps, post-'47 M&Ps will have the shorter action. Major parts are not interchangeable.
Roughly 10 or 12 years ago the Model 10 had its firing pin moved from the hammer to the frame, those parts are not interchangeable.
Parts & service for the hammer-pinned guns will be drying up, but right now you can still get them worked on if they fall between 1957 and when the change occurred (I've never bothered to chase down the exact transition date there).
Denis
Baba Louie
New member
Cards_fan,
If you can score a Victory, by all means do it for the historical value (US Navy if ya can)... but, older isn't always better, should it ever need work. However, don't let that stop you.
T'were it me, I prefer the newer (post 57) and I'm wierd in that I like the 3" and 5" barrel versions. They look and feel right to my eyes and hands. Nothing wrong w/ 4" mind you. Tapered or heavy barrel. Square butt or round.
Let us know what you end up with as your (ahem) first. Darned things can be addictive tho', so exercise caution. Maybe.
Make sure to read the Revolver checkout at the top of the forum when buying used, tho. Great advice therein.
If you can score a Victory, by all means do it for the historical value (US Navy if ya can)... but, older isn't always better, should it ever need work. However, don't let that stop you.
T'were it me, I prefer the newer (post 57) and I'm wierd in that I like the 3" and 5" barrel versions. They look and feel right to my eyes and hands. Nothing wrong w/ 4" mind you. Tapered or heavy barrel. Square butt or round.
Let us know what you end up with as your (ahem) first. Darned things can be addictive tho', so exercise caution. Maybe.
Make sure to read the Revolver checkout at the top of the forum when buying used, tho. Great advice therein.
