Hi, folks. A few questions on which I hope the revolver pros here can educate me.
I purchased a couple of re-imported Smith Model 10s to keep in push-button safes at either end of my house, and I have converted them to DA-only. I can handle them fine as is, but with the stock springs in the guns and the mainspring tension screw screwed all the way down, the trigger pull is too heavy for ladies to effectively use the weapons.
My questions are about the best way to reduce the hammer and trigger-rebound weights safetly. Specifically, my questions are:
(1) What is the minimum hammer-spring weight I can go down to and still have the pistol reliably ignite .38+P ammo? I know I can figure it out by trial and error at the range, but I'm wondering if there's an accepted standard I can go for before testing at the range.
(2) Am I correct in assuming that I can measure hammer-spring weight by cocking the pistol, attaching a trigger-pull gauge to the hammer, and then pulling the hammer back with the gauge until the hammer lifts off the sear?
(3) On 1911s, for example, I don't cut coils off coil springs such as the mainspring and recoil spring to lighten them. Instead, I buy a lighter springs. With regard to the Model 10's rebound slide spring, though (which is also a coil spring), I see that the spring is pretty long, and I could cut it back a coil or two and still have it be under compression when the rebound slide assembly with spring is installed in the gun. With that being the case, is that a safe way to do it, or is it the better course just to buy a lighter rebound slide spring?
(3B) With regard to the Model 10's mainspring, which is a leaf spring, should I purchase a lighter spring to reduce its weight, or is it safe to back the mainspring tension screw out a few turns, but not so much that the hammer would fall below the safe weight I asked about in number (2), above?
P.S. Am editing to ask another question I forgot to ask:
(4) These are heavy-barrel versions of the Model 10. I believe I'm correct (?) that at one time, Smith made a version of this same gun in .357 - the Model 13 maybe? If that's correct, what would it take to convert these revolvers to .357? Just modifying the cylinder chambers to accept .357 ammo? (These guns have a bit of holster wear, but they were obviously "carried a lot and shot a little" - they are mechanically in excellent condition.)
Thanks, folks.
Best,
Jon
I purchased a couple of re-imported Smith Model 10s to keep in push-button safes at either end of my house, and I have converted them to DA-only. I can handle them fine as is, but with the stock springs in the guns and the mainspring tension screw screwed all the way down, the trigger pull is too heavy for ladies to effectively use the weapons.
My questions are about the best way to reduce the hammer and trigger-rebound weights safetly. Specifically, my questions are:
(1) What is the minimum hammer-spring weight I can go down to and still have the pistol reliably ignite .38+P ammo? I know I can figure it out by trial and error at the range, but I'm wondering if there's an accepted standard I can go for before testing at the range.
(2) Am I correct in assuming that I can measure hammer-spring weight by cocking the pistol, attaching a trigger-pull gauge to the hammer, and then pulling the hammer back with the gauge until the hammer lifts off the sear?
(3) On 1911s, for example, I don't cut coils off coil springs such as the mainspring and recoil spring to lighten them. Instead, I buy a lighter springs. With regard to the Model 10's rebound slide spring, though (which is also a coil spring), I see that the spring is pretty long, and I could cut it back a coil or two and still have it be under compression when the rebound slide assembly with spring is installed in the gun. With that being the case, is that a safe way to do it, or is it the better course just to buy a lighter rebound slide spring?
(3B) With regard to the Model 10's mainspring, which is a leaf spring, should I purchase a lighter spring to reduce its weight, or is it safe to back the mainspring tension screw out a few turns, but not so much that the hammer would fall below the safe weight I asked about in number (2), above?
P.S. Am editing to ask another question I forgot to ask:
(4) These are heavy-barrel versions of the Model 10. I believe I'm correct (?) that at one time, Smith made a version of this same gun in .357 - the Model 13 maybe? If that's correct, what would it take to convert these revolvers to .357? Just modifying the cylinder chambers to accept .357 ammo? (These guns have a bit of holster wear, but they were obviously "carried a lot and shot a little" - they are mechanically in excellent condition.)
Thanks, folks.
Best,
Jon
