S&W Model 10 Dissasembly

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DMK

New member
Does anybody know where I could find a service manual or really detailed book that would provide instructions for disassembling a S&W Model 10?

I just bought one of those .38 S&W British Service Revolvers from SOG. The finish is gone (I mean gone!) and I'd like to redo it with black Gunkote. In the condition it's in now, it can't make it's value any lower.

Also, anybody have any ideas on finding a replacement set of Victory style wood grips for these?
 
Do a search and you should find the instructions here at TFL. But as Mike Irwin recommends, study a parts diagram first and while you're taking it apart. It'll make it a lot easier to reassemble later.
 
If you have any interest at all in S&W revolvers, the investment in Jerry Kuhnhausen's book is worth its weight in gold.

Your revolver may have the older lockwork (pre 1944), but it is similar enough that the book will get you to where you need to be.

It is ESPECIALLY valuable if you find that the sideplate is stuck from years of built up grease, crud, and rust.

The sideplate should never be pried off with a screwdriver. Ones that are truly stuck and can't be removed in the proper way (striking squarely across the grip frame with a wooden hammer handle to "bounce" the plate loose) require very careful removal with a set of wooden wedges.

Luckily, having to do this is pretty rare. In the more than 100 S&W revolvers that I've worked on, I've only had to do this once.

It's a tedious process, though, and must be done SLOWLY to avoid warping the sideplate.
 
Cool! Thanks guys.

Mike, thanks for the Tips! I'll take my time and be careful with it. I do these things for the enjoyment of doing it, so there's definately no need to rush.

"study a parts diagram first and while you're taking it apart. It'll make it a lot easier to reassemble later." LOL, I agree- BTDT!
 
DMK--

Pay close attention to Mike's cautions about sideplate removal. They are gospel!

Another hint--Spray a product called "Liquid Wrench" around the edges and into the lockwork with the stocks removed. It is really very good for loosening up old crud and even rust. Let it set up overnight before you proceed.

Go slowly and consider it a project to enjoy.

Best of luck,
Johnny

Edit-- I was writing my post just as you entered yours. Looks as if you are in the right frame of mind. :D Have fun.

JPG
 
"Spray a product called "Liquid Wrench" around the edges"

That's a great idea! I'm soaking it in CLP right now, but cleaning that off and shooting some PB Blaster on the screws and joints probably wouldn't be a bad idea.

Thanks again.
 
That is one thing I neglected to mention is that a penetrating oil, such as WD-40 or Liquid Wrench, can really help losen up a stuck sideplate, often to the point where you don't need to resort to the wooden wedges.

The one gun I mentioned resisted repeated applications of WD-40, and even a session with a heat gun.
 
"The one gun I mentioned resisted repeated applications of WD-40, and even a session with a heat gun."

Mike, next time try PB Blaster. I use it with great success on rusted bolts on my Jeep. Lots or mud and water can make sometimes for a real bad day working under a Jeep.

I haven't used Liquid Wrench, but PB Blaster puts WD-40 to shame when it comes to removing rusted or seized parts (Although WD excels at water displacement).

In some places it's hard to find, but NAPA auto parts stores carry it in every place I've been.

Heating the external part and cooling the internal part really helps too, if it's possible.
 
DMK,

Often heating of both parts can be effective, too, if you heat them and then allow them to cool.

This can break the bonds between the pieces. I've used this method successfully any number of times on stuck parts.
 
DMK: I have a late 60's model 10 and the insides look the same as my models 66 and 686. The Kuhnhausen book explains all with many pictures. It's worth it's weight in gold.
 
Thanks guys!

I called Brownell's and ordered the Kuhnhausen book, S&W screwdriver and a small bottle of Oxpho blue which I've been meaning to order anyway for another project.

I'll be sure to borrow my friend's digital camera and let you guys see some pictures when I get it all done.
 
I would also recommend the Kuhnhausen book and while you are at it get a Smith and Wesson rebound slide tool. Helps a lot to get that spring out. It is really not a bad deal once you read over the book a few times.
 
For the rebound slide, you can spend the bucks or get a short shank and stubby handle flat blade screwdriver from Sears (or the flea market) and grind down the tip preserving one edge such that it slips into the back of the rebound slide. Works great for assembly/disassembly.
 
I use a flat bladed screw driver to lift the rebound slide, and a piece of cloth to cover my thumb so the spring doesn't sting when I use the screwdriver to pop the slide and spring off the post.
 
A..wear glasses. I have to to find the gun anyway.
B..have speaker magnet handy for spring trollin in rug.
C..buy rebound springs by the bag.
D..buy second bag for when you can't find first bag.

Sam
 
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