S&W M64-3 end-shake correction, questions?

[boa2]

I have just bought an M64-3 and I have measured the end-shake on this revolver to be .006" described as follows:

First, I held the cylinder rearward and measured a total cylinder gap of .012". Next, I measured the cylinder gap to be .006" with the cylinder held far forward. This difference has resulted in .006" measured, end-shake! I did all of these measurements, with the cylinder in the closed position(With the hammer and trigger in their forward(Resting position)!

There is some fore-aft movement in the pivot crevice at the joint where the crane and the frame join(About .003")! However, I measured this amount(Of visible movement!)with the cylinder in the open position(Since it was easier to grasp the crane and to move it easily(Fore & aft)!

What I'm also wondering, is how to correct the end-shake measurement to the minimum allowable tolerance and not end-up increasing the cylinder gap, from it's already measured gap of .006" to a much wider gap of .010"-.012"(As a result of correcting the .006" end-shake, to bring it into the minimum tolerance range!)?

This M64-3 appears to be virtually NIB(Or only very lightly fired!)and there is no wear and tear showing on this revolver at all(Can hardly see just a "Trace" of a cylinder drag line!)and the forcing cone edges are nice and sharp and square! I'd like to hope that I could get this problem fixed, without too much of a problem(Or, expense!)since(Although this gun was LNIB!)it was a consigned Gun at a Gun Shop(So, I'm not the first owner!)?

I'm hoping to get some expert opinion's here? Anyone, please comment? Thanks!

 

[Sir William]

My first thought is to load the cylinder and measure again.

 

[boa2]

I thought that all of the above measurements for cylinder gap and for end-shake, was supposed to be made with the cylinder unloaded? Or, am I wrong on this?

 

[Sir William]

The dimensions will change when loaded. You have the unloaded data but, the loaded dimensions need to be known also.

 

[boa2]

I don't currently have any empty cases or even some live ammo to fill the cylinder with! However, I had compared the end shake of my M64-3(Unloaded)with an S&W M66-3 in the same condition(Side by side)and, the M66-3 had virtually no end shake at all(Maybe .001")! So, the question still remains, as to how the end shake can be corrected and not get the cylinder gap too wide? Anyone please comment?

 

[Sir William]

OK. No big deal. www.powercustom.com www.brownells.com There are multiple solutions. The simplest is to install endshake bearings. Easily accomplished. These come in .002 ans ,004 sizes for K,L and N frames. You could go for a crane stretcher also. The third option is to buy a yoke facing reamer and true up the square. These are all DIY gunsmithing projects. I still suggest you obtain some 38 Special cases, dummy rounds or even snap caps and check the dimensions again.