S&W K Frame Fatique?

H

Hammy

New member
I'd like some information on S&W K Frame revolvers. I've put my model 65 on a 38 SPL diet because I've heard that these things can't handle repeated firing with 357 loads. Also, should I be concerned about using the Plus-P loads. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
Ive nothing "scientific", and no of no metallurgy studies to prove what Im going to say but Ive been hearing this "the K-frames"cant take heavy 357's. The one weak area that I know of on the K-frames is the squared off portion of the forcing cone, which was done to allow the cylinder to close-----Now Ive heard that they crack, Ive owned probably close to 20 or so of mdl 19's and 66's and a couple of 65's, all K-frames. Ive never had one show any signs of weakness, such as metal failure. It could be what there talking about is the k-frames propensity to shoot loose, needing endshake taken out, things of that nature. Now Ive also not fed them an extreme hot 357 diet either. I think this started back when the K-frame was made in 357....originally the pressure of a 357 were up around 45k I think, and now is mostly in the low to mid 30's except for some "so called hot" defensive loading's, which in reality only reach the original loadings. Now that type of pressure change could "loosen things up" im not real sure what the first 357 frame size was, it might have been the N-frame as in the mdl's27+ 28 and those frames are considerably stronger then the K........anyway jmo.....fubsy.
 
I think it's another of those things everyone hears but never sees. The "stealth" gun problem. I, too, have heard same thing and still like the K frame better than any of the others. I gave my kid the M27 cuz it is HEAVY. I also think that the lighter bullets in .357 tend to make things tougher on the gun. Factory 158's in my 6" M66 show no problems whatsoever. And they shoot to the same point as 38 WC which will cloverleaf groups. I like K frame.
 
I have had my 586 for so long (12-13 yrs) I have actually forgotten what frame it has, but I'm almost certain that it is a "K" ... I also recall the manual suggesting that it was built to take a constant diet of magnum loads. I have certainly obliged it! After a couple of years of shooting .38 reloads on a budget, I began reloading and have shot nothing but magnum loads since. It isn't the only pistol I shoot, but I probably have close to 1000 hot rounds through it with no signs of any loosening at all.
saands
 
A few years ago I bought a PD trade in K-38,it only cost me $35.00(hammer was bent from a fall and I can't pass up a bargain) when I got it home and checked closely the forcing cone was cracked on both sides,I replaced the barrel and shot it for a couple years, traded for ????? that is the only one I have seen in 20 years of fooling with guns.
 
saands, 586 and 686 are L-frames...they eliminated the squared part of the forcing cone.....a great pistol too...fubsy.
 
Hi, guys,

The .357 in the K frame came about when LEOs wanted a .357 in a lighter gun than the N frame revolvers. They are fine for what they were designed for. But they are a shade under strength for .357 and most users limited use of full house .357 loads in the Model 19 for that reason.

S&W made the Model 19 cylinder out of higher strength steel and gave the frame different heat treatment, but didn't solve all the problems, especially with the barrel ends.

Anyway, the L frame corrected all that and appears able to stand up to .357 for a long time. I don't know how the little J frames, like the new 60 and 640, will stand up. We shall see, but (sore hands aside) I wouldn't put a full diet of .357 through them.

Jim
 
I have a Power Custom PPC revolver built on a model 64. After 20 years and God knows how many tens upon tens of thousands of rounds, the forcing cone finally split. I'll take a picture and post it so you guys can say you actually saw one. :)
 
Bill Jordan is the father of the Model 19. Even he said that a shooter had to watch it for wear of the locking bolt and other contact parts from shooting .357 ammo. It took thousands of full loads to get any serious wear, but older Model 19's or variations should be checked from time to time. Most shooters won't shoot that much. Bill wanted a gun that was lighter than the N-frame and easy to carry all day on a belt. He sure did a grand job. With .38 specials you'll probably never wear one out. It you shoot magnums keep loads around factory pressures. If you want more punch move up to the L frame line or N frame.
On Model 28's and 27's when cops started shooting double action mostly, the heavy cylinders went out of time if shot a lot from the slamming they took. I had a Model 28 that did that. Easy fix, but something to look at.
 
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