S&W Inspection

S

SteelChickenShooter

New member
Can someone tell me if it's a simple matter to take a look inside a model 29-6 and a 29-10? I don't want a surprise if there is anything I might mess up. I presume you just remove a grip and then the cover plate screws? I'm checking for rust and to see if everything looks good. Maybe a bit of oil and put the cover back on or cleaning if rust is found. Is torque alone on the small screws good enough to hold, or would you use a toothpick and add a micro drop of Loctite 222(purple) for the tiny threads? Thanks.
 
Take off the grips. Unscrew the mainspring tension screw (the screw on the front strap) to relieve the pressure on the mainspring. Remove the side plate screws while noting which screw came from which hole. The yoke screw (the lower right screw on the side plate) is fitted and must be placed back in the correct hole. Use a non-marring object (a wooden hammer handle?) to tap on the grip frame, while holding the side plate with your thumb, to loosen the side plate. DO NOT PRY ON THE SIDE PLATE; YOU’LL BEND IT! The side plate will pop off. The hammer block will probably fall out but it’s pretty easy to figure out where it goes. That’s about it. Reassemble in reverse. You don’t need thread locker on the side plate screws. Go slow, don’t force anything. I doubt you’ll find any rust.
 
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1+ on Scorch suggestion! I once watched a gunsmith tap frame to remove plate & watched as plate seemed to fall in slow motion before hitting concrete floor!..right on the edge!
 
Oh go ahead. Life's too short not to know what various things' guts look like! Brownell's sells Khunhausen books and various CD's that cover S&W assembly/disassembly. Purchase one of those, hide the drimmel tool and files, and procede over a bench or workspace.
tap on the grip frame
Click to expand...
-and continue to do so in a mild manner until the plate pops. No need to force anything upon re-assembly. Once you get the hammer block in the correct place after some trial and error- the plate will rest down enough (maybe with a very light tap from the end of a screwdriver handle) to cinch it on down with the screws.
 
Removing the sideplate is not hard, as others have said, but there is a chance of messing something up. Unless there is a reason to do so, I recommend the following: Make sure the gun is unloaded (yes, I know, I am insulting you, but I feel I have to say it). Then remove the grips. Cock the hammer and spray some cleaner or something like G96 Gun Treatment into the gap ahead of the hammer, and into the gap in front of the trigger. Let the excess drain off. Spray the back of the cylinder, push the extractor out and spray ahead of it. Again let things drain.

After the gun is dried a bit (not dripping), drop 4-6 drops of a good gun oil ahead of the hammer, and 2-3 ahead of the trigger. Put 2-4 drops on the ratchet and 1-2 on the extractor rod where it protrudes from the cylinder. If an S&W, put one drop into the front of the extractor rod.

That is it. Unless the gun is really gunked up, there should be no need to remove the side plate. Rust on the inside of a revolver is very uncommon unless the gun has been dropped in salt water.

Jim
 
Thanks for the advice.
I was curious to check because I bought the gun with a grip that did not look quite right. There were signs of slight rust on the bottom of the backstrap where the grip did not fit right. I removed the grip and found the screw and component part at the bottom that holds the grip in place to have rust. Made me wonder if I should take it apart and check inside. I've never taken these models apart before and appreciate the tips.
 
As an alternative to taking them apart I perform this procedure every 5 - 10 years on my revolvers:

Remove the grips so that the only thing left on the revolver is metal. (I assume the plastic used on guns now is ok to leave on, but I don't know that for sure)

I clean the revolver normally, cylinders, barrel, under and around the ejection star, etc.

Then I soak the revolver for a few days in Ed's Red. (you can buy it from Brownel's or make it - I part each of Dexron ATF, kerosene, mineral spirits, acetone.) Probably best to use Ed's red in the shed or garage as it has a distinctive aroma ;)

After the soak is over, I hang it up to drip, turning it over to get all the little pools of solvent drained. About an hour or so in several positions. Then blow it off with compressed air, wipe if off, let it sit a couple days them blow it off again and wipe it off.

Never had an issue with rust or gumming up after I started doing that. Your results may vary :cool:
 
quote ", or would you use a toothpick and add a micro drop of Loctite 222(purple) for the tiny threads? Thanks. "
Step away from the loctite..:eek: I have had too many guns come in and customers really complain about the price I chagred to get their sideplate off.(maybe they will learn from it)
 
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