S&W Hammerless 4th Gen.

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I've been offered a shootable S&W Hammerless 4th gen. for $100. Blueing has been replaced by brown patina, with little pitting. Locks up tight with a chip off original grips. Does anyone in this forum think this is a fair value? I'm not an expert on old Smiths. I have a nickled 1917 that I bought for $300 a few years ago. I sure like the old warhorse!
 
I don't know if it's a good price or not, but I would snap it up for that!

I was looking for one a couple of years ago, but couldn't find a good one (paid $150 for one, but it didn't pass inspection and I sent it back)
 
Well, I went ahead and bought it for $100. Bluing is gone but metal is fine with brown patina. Looks like some backstrap gas cutting.
 

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regardless of how it shoots,

if it locks up and operates correctly you paid the normal online price for it.

only way it would be worth more is if you found the original factory box for it, with the bill of sale.
 
Looks like some backstrap gas cutting.
Click to expand...
Gas cutting is unlikely at .38S&W pressures. I betcha it's pitting from powder residue that remained on the gun for too long.

Also, a few bits of advice...
  • Do not dry-fire the gun more than absolutely necessary. S&W "Lemon Squeezers" have a reputation for breaking firing pins, and spares are not necessarily easy to come by, as many Safety Hammerless parts guns got that way because the firing pin broke and the owner couldn't find a replacement. :( That said, the .38 4th Model is one of the more plentiful Safety Hammerless models, which should be helpful for parts availability.
  • The grip safety is not supposed to move very far, but it should not take excessive pressure to actuate it- a comfortable "firm handshake" firing grip should be ample. If you have to squeeze harder than this, the mechanism is probably clogged with dirt, ancient oil residue, and/or rust flakes.
  • That said, do not remove the grips unless it's absolutely necessary for repairs. Vintage S&W gutta percha grips tend to stick to the grip frame, making them very difficult to remove without damage.
BTW nice find. :cool:
 
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Thank you for the timely advice. I'm starting to believe "gas cutting" is not present, just normal S&W inletting around the cylinder cone, much like my 1917. Gun is in tight condition so I would not hesitate to shoot it if I can find/reload .38 S&W. Doesn't weigh much. overall a neat little gun with 0% bluing, only a nice rich brown patina. I wouldn't mind finding an original left side grip to replace cracked one.
 
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