S&W Hammer & Trigger

G

GunsnRovers

New member
I want to order a new hammer and trigger for my S&W M28.

I went to Gun Parts and got a bit confused on which parts to order.

For the hammer assembly, they list:

322760K Hammer Assembly, .400
322720J Hammer Assembly, .500

Where are the .400 and .500 measurements taken? (I assume they are inch measurements).

For the trigger, they list:

309310B Trigger Assembly, .265 Ser
309430B Trigger Assembly, .312 SM

Where are these measurements taken?

I assumed the measurements were a cross section, but....

The revolver in question is an early M28 (no dash), circa 1960/1961.

Jeff
 
The measurements of the hammer indicate the width of the "spur". They both will fit the same revolver. Some folks prefer the wider “spur” for thumb coking the hammer for single action work.

The same goes for the trigger the 265 is what they call the "service" trigger and it has serrations. The 312 is the "combat" and has a smooth face surface. Yes it is the cross section in inches.

Your revolver a rather old vintage and I am not sure if the current parts will fit. I bet one of the wiser men on the board will help out on this.
 
If it's an option, you need to order a hammer and trigger that are specific to your model.

If it's a straight 28, order for a straight 28.

If it's a 29-3, order parts for a 29-3.

Other parts will fit, but may need more fitting for best functioning.

With parts of the same time frame, you have a good chance that they'll be drop-in replacements.


Can I ask why you need a new hammer and trigger?

That's close to $100...
 
kicking ideas

I was kicking around the idea of it. The previous owner reblued the gun. The bluing looks nice. However, they also blued the hammer and trigger and I just miss the look of case hardening.

Mechanically, the gun is very tight which is what sold me on it. Lockup, timing, cylinder gap, etc are very solid. It's just an asthetic issue. I love the way it shoots.

Jeff
 
Removing the blueing would then leave the exposed parts 'in-the-white'. I really doubt that the case colors would still be intact underneath.:(
 
Use Rust and Blue Remover, but gently. Otherwise, you could have the hammer and trigger jeweled, which can look snazzy if well done.
 
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Polish the sides of the hammer and trigger, then use cold blue on a Q-tip to splotch the polished areas. It will look enough like case hardening to restore the original look. Try this on a piece of scrap steel first, though, so you can see what it looks like.

Jim
 
Try Birchwood Casey Rust & Blue remover.

Go GENTLY, and you'll likely preserve quite a bit of the case hardening.

You can also leave a little bit of the blue job that's there to simulate or accentuate the case hardening.
 
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