S&W Bodyguard .380

N

ninosdemente

New member
I follow a youtube video for cleaning this gun. Took the gun to the range today and the last time was two weeks ago, when pulling the trigger sometimes it wouldn't fire. Didn't have this problem before. I clean it before going to range.

At the range today, it did not fire on some occasions. It was not consistent as it misfired when it wanted to. When I pulled the trigger and nothing, I would "pull" harder and seemed that it would then fire. But there were a few times that it would take at least 3 pulls before firing. Some would fire when pulled the first time.

Now this is leading me to think that the I had moved or touched a part I wasn't suppose to when I cleaned the gun two weeks ago as that was the first time I began to have this problem. Today is the second time doing this.

What can I do to try and resolve this? Any help will greatly be appreciated. By the way not blaming youtube video.
 
I don't have a 380 Bodyguard but a good friend has one.

If I remember correctly, some of the Bodyguards have an issue with "light strikes".

Taking the Bodyguard down and putting it back together is a fairly simple operation. I doubt very much if you have done anything that would cause that problem but maybe someone who has one can be of more help.

My question would be - what ammo were you using? Was it the same as what you used previously? Depending on the mfg., primers can vary in hardness. If you wee using different ammo from the last time when it worked fine, try going back to that ammo and see what the results are.

If it continues to be an issue, I'd give S & W service department a call and talk with them. If this is a SD or EDC handgun, you want it to work on every shot . . .

Good luck - you'll get it straightened out I'm sure.
 
I had a S&W Bodyguard 380 and it had the occasional light strikes. I tried two different brands of factory ammo with same results. I traded it away and never looked back.
 
I had it since Nov. of last year and started using it this year.

The previous ammo used have been and in order:
Remington 95gr
Sig Sauer 100 gr
Herter's 95gr
Blazer Brass 95 gr
Herter's 95gr

Issue began after Blazer Brass. Used Herter's highlighted in bold today and last time at range (same box) and still have 4 boxes left. The other occasion I ever used Herter's from the list had no problem.
 
Light strikes. Other ammo might work. I suggest contacting them and requesting that they fix it with heavier springs.

It is a l so possible that the ammo is out of spec or that the firing pin isn't fully protruding.
 
You seem to have assumed that it was your fault just because you opened it up, and that you are what caused the failure.

It isn't. Either it is a coincidence, or the thing is so sloppy and useless that simple disassembly can throw it so far out of spec that it can't fire.
 
Yes, light primer strikes is a major problem (IMO) with this pistol. Its a good thing it has second strike capability. I have always had them fire after the second and on occasion, third trigger pull on the same round.

I have owned two of these pistols and both had/have the same problem. It does not make any difference what ammo you use, it will happen sporadically across all brands.

I hated the issue so much on the first one I owned, that I sold it off. However, I could not find a replacement at the time that was of the same size and had all the features it had (did not like any of the competition for one reason or another), so about a year later, I bought the "gen 2" M&P thinking it would have improved from the original bodyguard. Wrong. That was before the LCP II was announced. I would have tried that instead because of the better trigger. At this point, I dont want to take another loss and trade for an LCP II. Ill just keep pulling the trigger until it goes "bang!".
 
I suggest that you do two things. First, avoid blazer, as their primers will be cci, and cci, in my machine, had a high failure rate.

Second, I suggest an email to Smith. Make it absolutely clear that you are aware of this design flaw, that they shouldn't eventry to deny it, and that they are going to provide the information that they no doubt have about which brands have the best record of reliability.

Come on, you blockheads, you have spent years and millions in design and testing, and millions of rounds testing, and when it was "good enough", you shipped them. There are research records compiled and compressed that give clear and absolute answers about what works, down to the fourth decimal point for not only an average gun, but extreme spreads of several tested guns.

They can tell you "we found during testing that Remington showed the best reliability among the loads tested".

That's not an admission of anything, it's simply passing on a statistical observation and they should be willing to provide it.

My ftf rounds just set my hair on end. When I'm running it for accuracy in (not so rapid) fire, that thing goes click, and my hands just freeze. Instantaneous nerve blockage. I literally can't move my body for a second or so,and then, I'm not the type who can just try it again or rack out the dud.

An ftf during a stress fire situation will kill me.

Anyone who gets one of these has a whole lot of thinking to do about reliability if even a hint of problems.

I really believe that a stronger trigger spring or replacement hammer is needed, and those stupid magazine springs should be replaced as well.
 
Thanks to all for the replies.

Briandg, thanks for your suggestion and help. I will definitely contact S&W.

As this is my only handgun I have, it is my conceal and carry. It would really suck to have to take it out and have it "click".
 
I have a LOT of experience with this gun, after experiencing FTFire issues on three different ones. I have discussed my experience extensively on the S&W forum. You will hear all kinds of opinions about these guns, and what could be wrong with them. A lot of what you hear is not true.

Here is what I learned dealing with three of these guns over the course of a year or so, examining every part, mic'-ing some of them, modifying and fabricating some parts, and talking with a couple of people who are experts with these guns, including S&W's lead technician, for several hours:

1. There is no one thing that causes this to happen, but it often is firing pin related. Not the length of the firing pin, but the length of its throw. Aftermarket firing pins and springs don't fix it, and in the case of aftermarket firing pins, are dangerous.

2. S&W will keep working on it until it is fixed 100%, at no cost, including shipping both ways. This can be trying to one's patience; you really have to love this gun to stick with it for a trip or two, or three, back to S&W while they fiddle with it.

3. Once it is fixed, it is fixed. I now have two BGs that I have put hundreds of rounds through each without a FTFire, after S&W tweaked them.

4. Keep your firing pin essentially dry. Don't get any lube in the channel.

5. Don't email S&W. It will probably go unanswered. Call on the phone. Be sure you have first put some few dozen rounds through the gun to be sure it is broken in.

FTFire is UNACCEPTABLE, with any brand of name brand ammo. No defense pistol should be finicky about what ammo it "likes". Mine particularly didn't like Winchester white box, so that became my standard test ammo to prove that these guns were finally reliable. It has nothing to do with "hard" primers, which is a myth. But the Win cases were actually an average of a few thousandths shorter than most other brands, increasing the headspace a hair, exacerbating a firing pin throw problem.

Cheap steel case import ammo doesn't need to pass my test.

My BGs are back to bone stock, with only factory parts.

Good luck! If you like this gun, it is worth the trouble.

David
 
db4570, thank you very much for your detailed explanation.

2. since this is my first handgun I bought, I can say its my first love (lol) which at the moment I am willing to patiently wait until it gets fixed. I do have another lover while this one is away.

4. If this happened, does the warranty get voided? What does the warranty actually over and not cover when shipped back to S&W? This would be my first time sending a firearm.

5. I actually emailed them two days ago and received an email today where they had me fill out information so they can send me the shipping label. I have already fire at least 500 rounds.

Just really curious if the problem they find will be considered under warranty as I did read the info they provided and if not under warranty they will let me know the cost to fix. How long is warranty with S&W?
 
ninosdemente,

Good luck with this gun. There is nothing else like it, and when they work right, they are sweet.

You won't have any warranty trouble no matter what you did to it unless you did major metal work or swapped in aftermarket parts, and probably not even then. A little extra lube in the wrong place, or even re-assembled incorrectly, they won't care.

I think it has a lifetime warranty if you bought it new. I wouldn't worry about it at all. I think S&W's first priority is for their guns to work properly, and they seem not to be nit-picky.

Depending on their backlog, they could have it for a few weeks.

David
 
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