Purchased a S&W 696 in 44Spl, 3" Barrel. Anyone know of any compitent gunsmiths that have had success in shorter barrels? I am looking at getting down to 2". Am vertically challenged (5'4" 150lbs) and currently carry an Airweight 38+P - wanting a larger concealable caliber. Plans are to bob hammer DAO, action work and round all edges as well. Any direction is sincerely appreciated - even roastings.
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S&W 696
- Thread starter Foster
- Start date
Hi Foster.
I am only slightly less vertically challanged than you and only weigh ten stone. My 3" 696 hides quite well. I would be leery bout bobbin the barrel down to 2". With the 3" barrel it takes a fairly heavy charge to get big bullets goin fast enough, I think the 2" would have more negative than positive effects.
A word of caution, extremely rapid fire (ala McGivern etal) will cause the timing to retard. Heavy cylinder, heavy cartridges, stainless parts etc are not conducive to longevity when all that mass is started and stopped rapidly.
I got mine used, original owner put a lot of time and bucks into it and lost interest. Seems it was one that came down the line when QC was out to lunch. I did a tad bit of buffing and am very pleased with it. Very accurate with the right loads, sweet trigger and stone reliable.
I would suggest lightening the trigger return spring and leaving the hammer spring alone. Especially if you are going to bob the hammer. When bobbin it, recommend leaving a bit of a lump, maby eigth of an inch or so, of the base of the hammer spur. A tad bit of extra mass to help the strike.
Sam....any hole is good, big holes is gooder. Big hole in right place is goodest.
I am only slightly less vertically challanged than you and only weigh ten stone. My 3" 696 hides quite well. I would be leery bout bobbin the barrel down to 2". With the 3" barrel it takes a fairly heavy charge to get big bullets goin fast enough, I think the 2" would have more negative than positive effects.
A word of caution, extremely rapid fire (ala McGivern etal) will cause the timing to retard. Heavy cylinder, heavy cartridges, stainless parts etc are not conducive to longevity when all that mass is started and stopped rapidly.
I got mine used, original owner put a lot of time and bucks into it and lost interest. Seems it was one that came down the line when QC was out to lunch. I did a tad bit of buffing and am very pleased with it. Very accurate with the right loads, sweet trigger and stone reliable.
I would suggest lightening the trigger return spring and leaving the hammer spring alone. Especially if you are going to bob the hammer. When bobbin it, recommend leaving a bit of a lump, maby eigth of an inch or so, of the base of the hammer spur. A tad bit of extra mass to help the strike.
Sam....any hole is good, big holes is gooder. Big hole in right place is goodest.
9mmepiphany
New member
good choice...but consider this
i traded for a m696 with factory mag-na-porting and hogue monogrips awhile back. it is my front door gun until i find a holster i like. i put some boot grips on it and tried it out at our last qualification...about the same recoil as a K-frame .38+p
before you shorten the barrel, consider that a 2" barrel would eliminate an ejection rod long enough to kick out empty cases
i would lighten the main spring before the hammer return spring, otherwise the trigger will be sluggish resetting. consider buying a complete set from wolfe gunsprings or cylinder & slide.
if you are going to bobb the hammer, bobb all the way and round off the edges. another option, round off the edges of the hammer like on a python...i've never had mine snag on the draw.
i take my guns to DM gunsmithing in sacramento, they just did an awesome job on my m642.
my m696 will be next. getting the action tuned, trigger rounded and smoothed, hammer spur and cylinder release rounded, 11 degree crown on muzzle, ashley bigdot front sight
i traded for a m696 with factory mag-na-porting and hogue monogrips awhile back. it is my front door gun until i find a holster i like. i put some boot grips on it and tried it out at our last qualification...about the same recoil as a K-frame .38+p
before you shorten the barrel, consider that a 2" barrel would eliminate an ejection rod long enough to kick out empty cases
i would lighten the main spring before the hammer return spring, otherwise the trigger will be sluggish resetting. consider buying a complete set from wolfe gunsprings or cylinder & slide.
if you are going to bobb the hammer, bobb all the way and round off the edges. another option, round off the edges of the hammer like on a python...i've never had mine snag on the draw.
i take my guns to DM gunsmithing in sacramento, they just did an awesome job on my m642.
my m696 will be next. getting the action tuned, trigger rounded and smoothed, hammer spur and cylinder release rounded, 11 degree crown on muzzle, ashley bigdot front sight