S&W 686 Revolver Mods, Sanity Check Please

J

justinr1

New member
Guys:

I have a 686 with 8-3/8” barrel. This is an absolutely beautiful piece, but I’m looking to make the gun a tad more accurate, but, just as importantly, increase it’s strength to handle a moderate diet of magnum loads. Other than a good tuning job, I’m thinking a reduced cylinder gap (.002 - .003); a re-cut forcing cone (between 7 to 11 degrees) and re-crowning the barrel is a good idea. My question is: might it be a good idea to have a crane ball lock to increase it’s strength and is going to a double crane ball lock a good idea or not. I don’t want to hurt this gun and will be mostly shooting 158 JSPs or JHPs in this revolver. Any thoughts? Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Justinr1
Justinr1@aol.com
 
Before I would spend any money on gunsmiths and fancy add-on doodads I would spend some time at the bench rest trying different factory and hand loads. Maybe the gun is as accurate as it is going to get now. What do you think a revolver should do accuracy wise?

The 686 is plenty strong as is and should last many thousands of magnum rounds and does have a reputation for accuracy.
 
I think I should get 1 inch groups at 25 yards from a pistol rest. Currently I get 2 inches, more or less.

justin
 
Hi justinr1,

I would just buy some ammo or relaod some target loads and go to the range and shoot 500-1000 rounds over 5 or 6 range trips.
Practice with it for a while.

Then you will know the answer to your questions.

I bought a used 686 plus 2 yrs ago in 4" after shooting it a while I decided its perfect the way it is.
 
The ball crane lockup isn't really going to increase the strength of the gun. If anything, because of the cuts they have to make, it could decrease the strength a little bit.

But, with a 686, that's really not a big issue.

What the ball lock is going to do for you, if it is installed properly, is to give you greater accuracy.

If you're looking for the greatest accuracy, recutting & truing the forcing cone is always a good idea, and it's also a good idea to see if bore is actually in line with the chambers. On quite a few guns its ever so slightly off, which can affect accuracy.

But, that said, correcting that can be relatively simple, or it can be an expensive process, depending on the type of correction that is needed.
 
Do your modifications one at a time, shoot the gun and check for accuracy. This will allow you to evaluate each modification and stop once you are satisfied with the end result. Save you lots of money at the gun smith.

Start with is the trigger. One that will break cleanly and with minimal effort (Sane! No sub one pound SA pulls.). I would also play with different loads before venturing into gun modifications.

Robert
 
I tend to agree with Master Blaster. I purchased
a NIB 6" barrel Smith & Wesson 686, and I find
that it is perfect too me, in every respect. I
can't imagine a 8-3/8" tube version not being
accurate enough?

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
2" at 25 yards from rest....

Is it the gun or is it you? Might have a friend give it a try to check.

Have you tried various loads and bullets? Some are picky.

If you determine that it is truly an inaccurate gun, then go about changing the gun. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet, measure the chamber mouths....they should be all same size and a jacketed bullet should push in by hand from the front.

Have fun gettin to know each other......Sam

Sorry bout the tripple tap below.
 
Last edited:
Model 27 ?

Why not get a M27, 6 or 8 3/8s ? You WON'T have
to worry about the strength part. Guns are a little soft at the moment and if you look around I bet you can find a dandy shooter for $325 or so.

If it won't keep up with 'ya try the forcing cone and crown....FWIW....dewey :cool:
 
M-681

I have a 681 (same as 686, except fixed sights) 4" which I bought in about 1987 or so. The 681 is no longer made, which is a real pity, in my opinion.

It is a self-defense/home-defense revolver. I had the SA sear removed and the action polished (but not lightened) by Bill Davis when he was still operating in Sacramento. It wears rubber Hogue monogrips. The trigger pull is very smooth and consistent and the gun goes bang every time and is pretty accurate (more accurate than me, that is). I shoot both .38s and .357s in it and have experienced NO (that is, zero) problems with the gun.

I think I've owned this gun longer than any others I have. I will not sell it.

That 686 will last a long time. Shoot the heck out of it and don't worry about it.
 
Hello, Justin: The doctor called. You missed your appointment.

Or, you can just do like Master Blaster said: shoot about a case or two of ammo and you will find that the gun has magically become more accurate than you are. :p
 
justinr1 - Welcome to TFL! I think you'll like it here.

One thing we've found is that cross posting isn't necessary since most everyone visits all the forums anyway. I am going to merge the responses from your duplicate threads and leave this one here. The thread in General Handgun will be deleted.
 
Thanks for all your replies. This is my 4th 357. I have already put about 400 rounds through the gun. I know this 686 does not like plain lead. I figured on that when I purchased the gun. It has fairly shallow rifling. I got the 8-3/8 barrel because I wanted a hunting piece. The reason for this gum’s existence is to shoot 158 jacketed magnums. After I figure out which brand it likes I will be purchasing the rounds by the case. After that decision is made the revolver will not shoot anything else. It’s the only way I can get competent with any of my guns. Pretty boring, huh?
 
justinr1,

I have the 6" barreled 586 and it is more accurate than I am. When I had my 2-6 power bushnell scope mounted on it, I could shoot 2.5" groups at 50 yards from a rest, and that was 25 holes in that 2.5 inch group. I hunt with my 357, and I am moving up to 180 grain JHP's because I hunt where there are 200 lb plus whitetails. I need the penetration that the 180 grain bullet offers. I took an 8-point that dressed out at 198 lbs last fall with my 20-guage. Now to get one with my wheel gun.

Most of the factory .357 loadings are loaded below max. The only factory 158 grain .357 ammo that I would hunt with would be Corbon. If you are going to shoot alot of full power magnum loads get into reloading for the .357. You will save enough money in the first 1000 rounds to pay for a single stage press and everything that you need. Onec you have the brass you will be able to load premium bullets like the Speer gold Dot JHPs at $14 per 100 about $20 or less per 100 loaded cartridges. Handloads are also more accurate than factory ammo, at least mine are and you can get the most out of your ammo.

Good luck with your decision and happy shooting.

Boo586
 
Boo586

Thanks for the input. That is big whitetail! I lived in Alabama for the last 15 years, and the deer are much smaller. Heck, I've almost run over two whitetail up here in Maryland just outside DC. They must be in the 85 - 115 lb. range.

As for reloading, I have considered many a time, but ultimately have decided against it. I have skin problems and need to apply prescription goo everytime I pick up a firearm, which is everyday for practice. I don't want to think what would happen to my hands when assembling ammunition. Also, believe it or not, I'm looking hard at S&B 158 JSPs and JHPs. It is listed in the 1250 fps range from a 7-1/2 barrel. I would have to chrono out of my 8-3/8 before I would believe it, but typically S&B is warm stuff anyway.

As for real hunting, I am partially handicapped anyway and don't really hunt. When I lived in rural Alabama for a time I would run across deer on my rented property all the time, within 75 yards, which is as far as I would go with a 357. There it is legal to shoot from your front porch. That is one thing about Alabama that I will truly miss.

justinr1
 
686s

Believe it or not my 686PP prefers CCI Blazer(158s). So far I can't get a handload to equal the factory ammo performance. But that's OK.:D
 
Here's something you can do to help determine if chamber to chamber cyliner/forcing cone alignment is perfect.

With a marker, number each of the chambers in the cylinder.
Now test fire each chamber individually, and get groupings from each chamber individually. You may well have some chambers that shoot tighter groups than others.

I read this in G&A years ago in an article titled "Sixguns are six guns"


Bowser.
 
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