S&W 686, lock or no lock?

PatrickBateman

New member
Ive been looking into purchasing as S&W 686+ with 6" barrel and noticed alot of people complain about one thing: the lock. What is so bad about it and why is the pre lock version more desirable? Im kind of a gun noob so dont flame me too hard! Tried searching but couldnt really find the answer to my question. Thanks for the help!
 
Personal preference is no lock for me. I have the four inch barrel version of the 686 and would not have the lock. Some claim they can suddenly lock up on their own which would be a big problem in a life or death situation. Others have shot thousands of rounds in guns with the locks on them with no problem. Opinions will vary and as I said, it's personal preference for the most part.
 
Fewer parts. Less stuff to fix, less stuff to go wrong.

Recently I repaired a K frame gun that the bolt didn't necessarily move (the bolt is the part inside the frame that is moved by the thumb piece/cylinder release to open the action). If stuck in the unlocked position, the hammer would not rotate rearward (couldn't cock the gun in the DA or SA mode). The cause? Poorly made, non factory spec plunger (the spring plunger in the bolt provides the tension for the thumb piece/cylinder stop). I made a new plunger on a lathe and it works fine now.

The point? Fewer parts, less stuff to go wrong.
 
The lock prevents unauthorized use of the revolver.
Since it can be removed, it's not a guarantee that it can't be put back in action if it's stolen.
So, it's mostly of use if you have kids who might get their hands on it.
And you remember to lock it.
Kind of useless, really.
But since it is removable, it's not that big of a deal if the one you want has it.
Here's how to take it out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM
 
I agree a no lock version is preferable. However, if the only guns I could find included the lock it would not stop me from making the purchase.
 
I don't leave my guns where children will play with them so I don't need a built in lock.

and.... as stated above, less things to go wrong when you are fighting for your life.

when a major police department starts issuing locked guns to their officers I might listen then, but I doubt it.

basically a gun can have things to help it shoot better, the lock does the exact opposite.
 
The no-lock version is worth more and commands a higher price. Typically, the older the model of a S&W, the more desirable it tends to be. And, the more you will generally pay for it.

I have two 617's, both in 4" and 6" bbl. lengths. They both have the integral lock and it doesn't bother me in the least.

But.....if given a choice, I'd take a no-lock version every time.
 
I've got 4 Smiths without the lock, and 2 with.

I wish none of them had the lock.

But I'm over it. Whether or not they have the lock means nothing to me now.
 
Pretty hard to brag on your gun unless it is a pre-lock. My Smith's have locks, so I just quietly enjoy them. They are magnums with opportunities to give the frame and the shooter a pretty good jolt. If I was going to have any problems, I expect the odds are overwhelming that they would occur on the range.

BTW, it takes some effort and time to draw a 6 inch barrel, easier in youth than advancing age. What exactly is your reason for wanting to wear (carry) this gun? The practical consideration will always favor 4", I believe.
 
Real Gun said:
Pretty hard to brag on your gun unless it is a pre-lock. My Smith's have locks, so I just quietly enjoy them.

Correct. My go-to revos generally have The Lock, and I don't brag about them. I brag about my targets and my scores instead. :cool:
 
Its an appearance issue to me....and I just don't want any S&W revolvers with locks...but I also prefer the older versions where the barrels were pinned and the cyclinders were counterbored - like in the model 27's the dash 2 engineering series. The dash number is the engineering revision on the model...

The 686 Plus --- is a 7 shot version of the model 686 ...started with the 686-4 series in 1996 according to my S&W book ....in 1997 it became a dash 5 where they changed the frame design, changed internal lockwork, floating firing pin with flat face hammer, MIM trigger ....in 2002 it went to a 686-6 and it has the Internal lock system that most of us prefer not to have...but MIM parts are not desireable to collectors/shooters either often.

You'll find the 686 7 shot plus ...was made in 2 1/2", 3", 4" and 6" barrels.../ with the 686 in a 4" probably being the most popular length ( easier to draw from a holster than a 6")...and longer than the 2 1/2" or 3" so you have a longer sight plane...making them a little easier to shoot beyond 21 feet or so...( in my opinion ).

note: all from 3rd edition of S&W catalog .....the only 686's I own are a 4" and a 6" ...both 686-1's.../ and they bear the M mark as modified at factory ...both nice guns / 686's are L frames...between the K frame ( model 66's or 19's ) ...and the N frames ( model 27's, 28's, and 627's ) ....all .357 Mag calibers. When you see the 6 in the model, you know its a stainless gun....66 is stainless K frame, model 19 is K frame either blued or nickel....( the .357 mag makes up most of my S&W collection of model 19's, 27's, 28's, 66's and 686's --- but my favorite of the bunch is the model 27's - the N frames) but they're more money than the 686's../ the 686's are a good value right now if you can find a good clean one.

Good luck with the continuing process of finding the gun you like !
 
I don't like the looks of the lock hole at all. More parts means more possible things to break. The lock itself is pretty much a nonsensical thing, IMHO. Will I buy an S&W with a lock? Nope. I see no use for them, and I think the old ones are just better. S&W currently makes no handgun (semi or revolver) currently that I would want to buy. Sad, but true.
 
No lock because the quality of the older revolvers are much better. I've had more than a few newer/lock S&W revolvers, but now I only look at used older models for their better quality parts, better fitment of parts and smoother actions.
 
Originally posted by 2123:[/b

The no-lock version is worth more and commands a higher price.



You read this all the time on the interweb, but I don't see it in real life. Not in any of the gunshops I go to. Price for the most part, as is demand for them, is based on condition, with 4'' barrels generally demanding a tad higher price. Of the used, generally the -4s seem to bring a slightly higher price than the no-dash, -1s and -5s and above, but not by much. No where around here do I see selling prices higher for used 686s than I do for new. I see it asked on Gunbroker, other sites, but rarely see them go for that. Now this is 686s we are talking about, not the old and rarer collector type models.

As has been said, the lock is a non-issue. Don't like it, don't use it or remove it petty simple. If the hole is that big of a distraction, you need to quit lookin' at it and start lookin' down the sights. That's what shooter revolvers are all about. Modern Smith 686s don't advertise themselves as a piece of fine art. They advertise themselves as reliable and accurate revolver at a modest price......and that is what you get.
 
The used Smith market prices are insane. Keeping the lock hatred going has been an intensive to keep the lock hatred going.

The Smith lock deal has been old news for a long time. If you want a new one, get it, if you want an old one, get it.
 
Not a big issue, but if I want to secure a gun I have other ways I prefer. My 686 6" is a no dash model and thus missing the key hole. I've a couple of Taurus pistols that also have internal key locks that I've never bothered with. As mentioned above, I wouldn't pass up a good buy because of the lock, I just wouldn't use it.
 
It's more about the lock being a mark that shows it has lower quality components and fitment of parts. The lock itself is pointless as well though. I hope nobody listens to me though since it leaves the older quality S&Ws for me. :)
 
Back
Top