S&W 66 vs 686

E

easyG

Moderator
I'm considering either the 66 or the 686 .357 with a 4" barrel.

What are the pros and cons of these two?

Why would you choose one over the other?

Thanks,
EasyG.
 
Toe-may-toe, toe-mah-toe, unless you're planning on toting it all day long, in which case I'd give my nod to the svelter K-frame. (Or planning on doing gobs of hot load development with light bullets, in which case the L-frame would be my pick...)
 
Thanks for the quick replies.

But please elaborate.
What makes one better for carry and one better for shooting.

From what I've read, there is'nt much difference in weight, both can be had with adjustable sights, and both are stainless steel.

Are their sights different?
Is one's sights better than the other?
Are their grips the same?

I'm not looking to carry concealed everyday (I would choose a smaller revolver for that).
It would be a bedside and glove-box gun.

And I definitely prefer adjustable sights over combat fixed sights.

I'm just wondering if one is really any better than the other.

Thanks again,
EasyG.
 
Both are fine revolvers, especially for what you've outlined. Their sights are the same (adjustable), and the grips can be changed to whatever you want; I think the 686 comes with Houge and the 66 with Uncle Mikes (I put Houge Bantams on my 66). The 686 is a heavier revolver, but you can get it in a 7 round configuration if you choose.
The 686 is too big for some people's hands, and it costs more than the 66 does, so go with whichever one fits your hands and budget best; I really don't think you can go wrong with either one.
Good Shooting
 
The 686 is too big for some people's hands, and it costs more than the 66 does, so go with whichever one fits your hands and budget best;
Click to expand...
Not hardly! They have the same grip size exactly. If the 686 is too big for your hand then the 66 will be too big for your hand.

The 66, being K-frame, was designed for the .38 Special, and is lighter and somewhat more petite (NOT in the grip) than the 686.

The 686 is an L-frame and was designed from the ground-up for the .357 Magnum while preserving the ergonomics (grip size) of the 66. The extra "beef" in the 686 is the forcing cone/high stress areas--not the grip. The extra weight and full-logged barrel of the 686 will help tame hot .357 loads.

For the purposes you describe either one would work well. They both have very good (certainly better than you'd see on a bottom feeder), full adjustable sights. At least theoretically, the 686 will last longer with hot loads than the 66, but it shouldn't be issue unless you deliberately set out to shoot it to destruction. Frankly, if you are planning on shooting three or four boxes of .38s to one box .357s, your great-grandchildren should be able to shot them.
 
The Model 66 is a "K" frame gun, and the Model 686 is a "L" frame gun.

The 66 is simply a stainless steel Model 19, which was developed at the insistence of Border Patrolmen and legendary lawman Bill Jordan.

Jordan wanted a lighter weight .357 Magnum than the heavy S&W "N" frame revolver for law enforcement.

S&W obliged with what became THE police revolver of model times, the Model 19/66.

In the 1950's and '60's, most police departments practiced with standard or even light-load .38 Special ammo, and loaded up with .357 Magnum for duty use.

In the 70's, most police departments began to use ALL .357 ammo for practice AND duty use, and that turned up a potential problem with the Magnum "K" frame revolvers.
The increased use of full-power Magnum ammo caused increased wear on the guns, and they needed to be repaired sooner.

S&W soon brought out a beefed-up revolver with a new, heavier frame called the "L" frame.

This gun basically copied the lugged barrel and cylinder size from the Colt Python, had a sturdier, heavier frame, but retained the same size grip as the "K" frame.

The new, improved revolver does stand up better to increased Magnum shooting, while being only slightly larger and heavier than the "K" frame Model 19/66, but offers the same grip size to fit average sized hands.

So, if you plan on shooting large quantities of hot Magnum ammo, especially the 110 to 125 grain screamers, you might want to buy a 686.

If you plan to shoot it with mostly .38 Special or .38 Special +P ammo, OR you don't plan on firing many, many thousands of rounds of Magnum, you might want the 66.

If this is a gun you plan on carrying concealed, you'd probably want the slightly smaller, lighter, more compact Model 66.

If you're using this as a range gun, a house gun, or a belt holster gun, get the Model 686, since in those cases, size really isn't an issue.

So, although the grip is the same on both guns, and grips are interchanger able, the Model 66 is a lighter more compact concealment gun, while the 686 is a larger, heavier gun with a much larger diameter cylinder, which makes concealment more difficult.
 
Thanks to one and all.
Now this was very informative and helpful.

For my needs, I think it's best to get the more durable L-frame 686.

EasyG.
 
I love the model 66. I really love the model 66. I can't say that enough.

For my money, the best revolver to have would be the model 686.
 
I have both. I suggest that you buy either one that feels good in your hand, and then you can buy the other for a backup later.

I actually ended up with the 686 as my always glove compartment gun, and the 66 is my house gun and sometimes concealed carry piece. If I could only keep one, it would be a 3" 66 because of its wonderful versatility. It just "feels" exactly right and hangs perfectly in my hand. My most accurate shooting, however, is done with the 4" 686.

The good news is that you cannot make a bad choice!

Clemson
 
Clemson, Where's ya get the 3" 66? pluleeeeze tell me. I'm about to drop major cashola to have one made, other stuff will be done too but the 3"bbl is an item (an expensive one too.)
 
Gonzo -

Unless you really want adjustable sights, three-inch Model 65s (a Model 66 with fixed sights) are readily available. The Lady Smith version are partcularly with a shrouded ejector (just like the Model 66) and a better trigger.
 
Gonzo, I don't know what you idea of major cashola is but Smith and Wesson can rebarrel a K frame for you for about $150-$200.
So if you have a k-frame already, just get a hold of S&W and have them rebarrel one of your existing models.
 
Davidson's had 9 of the 3" 66's left last week. They had over 60 a month ago, so you might want to hurry. They run about $500. I got one of the hi-viz models and it is my favorite gun.
 
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