S&W 65-2 problem

PaleRyder

New member
I have a stainless 65-2 that has a bind problem. When I dry fire it, it does fine. When I fire .38s in it, the trigger freezes on the 3rd or 4th shot. I have to let up on the trigger than press it again to get it to fire. It's either that or the cylinder binding. Someone on the Smith and Wesson forum said it sounded like a stainless gun.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Do stainless revolvers tend to have more problems of this nature than blued?
 
Wow what an observant forum member. I never would've deduced that your gun is SS based on a model number :rolleyes:

Are you using factory ammo? Maybe crud in front of the cylinder? Improper endshake fix that set the cylinder too far back?
 
I only use factory ammo and I soaked and cleaned the gun with Shooters Choice when I first bought it. I bought it used a week ago.
 
I have run across this problem. IIRC, the sideplate has a trough milled into it, a hammer block safety rides in it. Gunk can jam it up. I took the safe route and returned mine to S&W. They slicked it up and returned it better than it left the factory. You might check for the ejector rod unscrewing too. I don't recall when S&W changed the thread direction.
 
Thanks for the info. Can you recall how long it was before they got it back to you? I think I'll go that route also.
 
There can be a number of reasons this is happening. The simple way to find out is to have a good S&W gunsmith take a look at the gun.

Is it always the same chamber(s) that cause the problem? Try loading every other chamber (odd numbers) and firing. If okay, repeat with even numbered chambers loaded (you decide odd/even).

Things you can check are;
1. Check ammo for high primers - especially on reloads. Inspect after gun jams to see if you have any horizontal marks on the primers.

2. Check ammo for improper bullet crimp. If firing reloads especially. When the gun jams keep weapon downrange and level, finger OFF the trigger. Lean over to right and check the next chamber to cycle up (on the right of the gun). Do you see a bullet nose peeking out and contacting the forcing cone of the barrel? How about at the bottom near the left side of the frame/cylinder yoke? Your M65, with .38's should have what looks like 1/4" depth between bullet nose and cylinder front.

3. Ejector rod unscrewing. Open cylinder and check by holding cylinder and trying to unscrew the ejector rod either direction. If it unscrews in the locked position you may not be able to open the action. If this happens you may need to use padded needle nose pliers to carefully screw down the ejector rod to get the action open. After that, unthread the rod, degrease the threads and put some fingernail polish on the threads before reassembling. Note: Threads may be a left-handed (reversed) thread!

4. Check the recoil plate for gouges or machine marks. The recoil plate is the raised portion of the frame behind the cylinder that keeps the cartridges from falling back out (just ahead of the cylinder release). Occasionally a gouge or machine mark will cause the edge of a cartridge to catch. Inspect for any area showing "gold" (brass) smears or particles. Can be smoothed with a soft Arkansas stone and light pressure.

5. Weak extractor rod centering pin spring. The spring that pushes the pin out at the center of the star extractor. If the spring is weak it can allow the cylinder latch to ride forward and jam the action. It can also allow the shooter to jam the action with slight forward pressure on the cylinder release. Likewise a weak cylinder release spring keeps the latch forward instead of rearward.

6. The internal hammer block binds on accumulated gunk or has slipped out of its slot in the sideplate. Clean the action with the hammer back using a spray degreaser and relubricate.


Barring any of these issues, visit your local gunsmith.
 
Years ago the 686's had a simular problem, locking up for no reason and Smith recalled them. The 686's needed a new firing pin bushing. I don't know if your pistol has the same thing happening but my 686-1 was fixed by a S&W gunsmith at no charge.

As I recall it was hard to open the cylinder after the pistol locked up. Dang near 20 years ago now.

This same 686 remains my fav wheel gun to this day. Just a thought......
 
Last edited:
I suspect the internal hammer block is the culprit. I'm going to detail strip the 65 later this week and give it a thorough clean/lube. I'll take it back to the range at the end of the week and let everyone know what happens. I forgot to add, it is not hard to open the cylinder when it happens.
Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Sir William- "I have run across this problem. IIRC, the sideplate has a trough milled into it, a hammer block safety rides in it. "


Yep, it happened to me also. I took it apart, made sure every thing was aligned up right and clean. Realigned the hammer block safety. It worked right ever since then. :)
 
I'm not an experienced gunsmith. I do have a book on disassembling different revolvers. I successfullly took apart and re-assembled my 649, but there were some difficult spots.
I'm a little hesitant to start taking the 65 apart because I'm not too experienced. I think with the book I can get it done however.
 
WHOA! Coincidence maybe but, a similar problem just beset a friends revolver. We don't know how many thousands of rounds have been through his revolver. This was a police trade-in from Centerfire Systems. It was binding and really TIGHT. We removed the cylinder crane screw only. We removed the crane/cylinder assembly. We found the gummiest bunch of gunk when we pulled the cylinder out of the crane. It took a enire can of Tetra and some effort with a brush to clean out the crane. We soaked to cylinder in Kroil overnight. When sprayed with Tetra, there was still black gunk in the cylinder and under the ejector. We Flitzd his parts, reoiled/lubricated and reassemled to still find resistence. We stripped the crane/cylinder off again and noted that the cylinder was turning to a point and then we felt resistane. We found a tiny burr or gall mark on the crane arbor. A simple polish with a foamboard and then reassembly found all well. If anything, it is better and cleaner. Just a thought.
 
I'll have to check that. I disassembled it when I first bought it and cleaned everything, but I'll look that over before I take it completely apart.
I still am thinking about how the rounds are seating though, because it dry fires like a charm. Only when loaded does it bind.
 
Back
Top