S&W 638 - Shot Placement and Question

F

fender1974

New member
I've had my 638 for about half a year and admittedly not shot it nearly as much as I thought I would. Maybe 100 - 150 through her to date. I just took her out again on Wednesday evening and realized that I'm a horrible shot with it. I was shooting 158 grain unjacketed rounds at 20 feet and at times, was totally missing the 8" target. I have several semi-automatic pistols, a rifle and a shotgun - I shoot all of them very well. I realize that this has a short barrel, but I also shoot my LCP and have about as many rounds though it and am a much better shot using that. I have tried shooting both single and double action and I'm about the same either way. I've also tried dry firing drills and I don't see much muzzle movement. I had originally thought about getting a CT Grip, but most here advised against.

I also noticed when cleaning it that there was what I originally thought was part of the barrel coming apart or flaking. I believe it to be lead. Is this normal and what is the best way to clean? I've been using a bronze/brass cleaning brush and Baristol with a bunch of patches.

Any help/advice would be much appreciated!
 
What kind of ammo are you using?

You can try changing the grips. Get ones that fill your hand better.

Load a few empty cases and a few live rounds. You might have developed and flinch.

I use CLP break free small brass brushes to clean around the forcing cone. If it is really leaded up you might need to get some kind of lead solvent.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=285562
I also use a brass jag to clean the bore.
 
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What kind of ammo are you using?
Click to expand...

I'm using 158 grain semi-wadcutters in a can from Georgia Arms (factory reloads). I've also tried shooting some Winchester Supreme Elite PDX1 - 38 Special +P JHP through as I figured this would be my carry load.

The shavings that I was refering to are actually located at the end of the barrel, not on the forcing cone.
 
I have a S&W 442 and also have a difficult time shooting nearly as well as I do with my other guns, but these are close quarters pocket guns. Changing the grips might help as will additional practice. I generally shoot at large silhouette target and find that although my groups are not as tight as I might like I am hitting center mass. I guess my point is be realistic with your expectations for the gun and just practice a little more until you get comfortable with it.
 
I would focus on the basics using single action fire first, then transition to double action once you have the grip and sights mastered in single action.

Don't know how hot the Georgia arms ammo is but try some Winchester white box 38 special stuff to build confidence, it is a light round. Also some guns simply do not like a given ammo.

Last option have someone else shoot it, maybe it is the gun.
 
The 638 is my pocket gun and like the CT lasers. I also like to take it out to the range for extended practice sessions. When I do that I change the grips to Pachmayr Compac. Shooting the snubs can humble you unless you put the practice in with them.

I know people say they're belly guns and hitting a target anywhere is good enough. It's just the short sight radius that make them harder to shoot. Most snubs are much more accurate than people think, it's just learning how to shoot them(practice).

The shavings could be lead or just powder/bullet lube residue and should clean up with patchs, Hoppe's 9, and brushs.

When I go to the range I will shoot anywhere between 50 to 150 rounds in it depending on time and other guns to shoot. The 638 is a great little gun. Practice.
 
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The barrel is not coming apart. The stuff you are seeing is lead from those reloads. The Georgia Arms lead reloads will lead the barrel quicker than appropriately handloaded cast lead. It is not any type of real problem though. Go to the store and get a copper Chore Boy scrub pad. Make sure it is all copper and not copper plated steel. A magnet will tel the difference. Cut a chunk off and wrap enough stands into and around a bronze cleaning brush. Enough that it is a tight fit but you can still get it in the end of the barrel. Scrub the snot out of the length of the barrel for a short time and check. The lead will be gone with no harm to the steel. Copper is softer than steel, but harder than lead.
 
Well, a badly leaded barrel will cause accuracy to suffer, so the lead in your bore may be partly to blame. I'd suggest trying some jacketed ammo once you get the barrel cleaned up to see if your accuracy problems persist. Older S&W snubs like my M36 had their sights regulated for 158gr bullets, but newer ones may be different. S&B makes a decent 158gr FMJ loading that you might try for practice and Winchester, Remington and Federal all make 130gr FMJ loadings if your revolver's sights are regulated to the lighter weight.

Also, how are you depressing the trigger? Many people have trouble transitioning from SA semi-autos to DA revolvers because they've been taught to depress the trigger with the pad of their finger. Because of their longer, heavier pull, many people find that they have much more success with DA revolvers by placing the trigger in the distal joint of their finger rather than on the pad. This is especially true with J-Frames because they need a heavier mainspring, and thus heavier trigger, to reliably ignite primers than K, L, N, X, and Z frame revolvers due to the fact that J-Frames have smaller, lighter hammers.
 
I've had to deal with leading problems recently, including in my 638. The Chore Boy method referenced above worked well for me. I was told by an older gentleman that I'd get better results using the Chore Boy wrapped around a nylon brush instead of bronze (something about the nylon bristles gets more of the Chore Boy into the rifle grooves). Works well for me. I also use a little Kroil on the Chore Boy.

You may also find that wiping out the barrel with a patch on a jag, instead of a slotted tip, will help clean out the lead.

Once I got my 638 cleaned out, I vowed to stick with jacketed bullets in 38 Special. I also found that the 638 was much more accurate after getting all the lead out of the barrel.
 
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