S&W 625-2 & -3 Differences? Warnings?

C

croyance

New member
Now that I have a S&W19-3, I find I am looking at more revolvers. (Damn S&W for making such nice guns back then!)
A pair of S&W 625's have caught my eye. Both have a 2-3/4" barrel. One is a 625-2 and the other is a 625-3.
What are the engineering changes between versions? Were there any recalls? Anything to be especially aware of?

I like the -2 better. Nicer grips that fit my hand better. A brass bead sight that works well for me. It is $20 more, but I would have spent triple that just for new grips anyways.

Thanks for your help.
 
Was the notch cut necessary? Will heavy recoil cause the cylinder to jump?

They definitely aren't out west, btw.
 
The longer cut was part of the Endurance Package. That was an upgrade after the M29/629 couldn't hold up to the pounding the silhouette shooters were dishing out. The package was then added to all the N-frames.
 
625 or 629??

The differences between a 625-2 and a 625-3 are: the 25-2 is a model of 1988 that has a floating hand (replaceable) and other possible issues, but is more collectible due to scarcity and the 25-3 would be a model of 1989 that corrected said issues
 
What is a "floating hand"?
How bad is this? I'm just planning on shooting 230 grain, with some +p's for self defence and occasional range use.
 
The 625-2 can be found in both the Model of 1988 and the Model of 1989. The correction to the problems of the Model of 1988 was the Model of 1989 and not all the Model of 1988 were troublesome. I wouldn't say the Model of 1988 has any more collectability value even though fewer of them were made.
The 25-2 was named the Model of 1955.
 
If the timing looks good when I check it out again, will it be a future concern? I didn't catch if it said Model of 1988.
Do revolvers commonly go out of time with heavy use?
 
N-frames are known to go out of time when shot in a fast double action style a lot. The M625 has less of a problem because the .45 caliber charge holes makes the cylinder lighter thus easier on the bolt to stop the rotation.
 
This may be naive, but aren't revolvers generally made to be shot double action?:confused: Isn't this a failure of a very basic function?
Is this an expensive thing to fix if a problem arises?
 
The style of shooting I'm referring to is the action shooting games of today. The shooters empty the cylinders as fast as they can pull the triggers. The big heavy cylinder of a N-frame is hard to stop from rotating by the bolt. What can happen is the cylinder notches gets battered by the bolt causing metal to swage up. This can be repaired, but for that style of shooting a smaller revolver is recommended (even by the factory). The K and L-frames are better suited for that role.
 
That makes more sense. It just sounded funny especially since most self defense shooting is double action.
So as a range gun, I just need to look for '1988' under the crane and make sure it isn't it.
 
The name "MODEL OF 1988" is on the side of the barrel. The M625-2 will be on the frame behind the yoke (crane is the Colt term for the same part).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top