S&W 586 Problems

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Boo586

New member
I think I have a problem. Went to do some dry firning practice this morning before work and do some speed loader drills with my 586 and I noticed that the cylinder on my 586 was binding as I swung the cyliner shut. THe face of the cylinder was definitely rubbing against the forcing cone or at least against a piece of lead on the forcing cone. The face of the cylinder was getting scratched up. It seemed like the back part of the cylinder was rubbing too as I was closing it. It shaves some lead sometimes too.

I shoot alot of reloaded magnum loads through it (hunting practice loads) but they are below maximum by about 1 to 1.5 grains.

This is my first pistol that I ever bought and it hold s a special place in my heart so I defenitely don't want to get rid of it. Do you guys think I need to send it to Smith and Wesson and get it looked at?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Boo586
 
problems with 585

Do you still have lead in the forcing cone? Is there lead in the rear of the frame where the firing pin comes down through the frame? What type of ammo are you shooting. Sounds like it is a little too soft or many not lubed? Try cleaning the lead out of those parts of your revolver, and then use a "Lewis Lead Remover" or a similar product to ensure your barrel is okay.;)
 
Boo586:

You don't actually 'swing' the cylinder shut, do you? It should never be 'swung shut'. Rather, the cylinder should always be closed by hand. Otherwise, you'll mess it up and end up having to replace parts and get your gun re-timed.

Good luck,

straightShot
 
A thorough cleaning will reveal much

and that's where you should begin when you get home. If you do not own a cleaning toothbrush with brass bristles, stop off at the gun shop and pick one up. They are safe to use on the forcing cone and the face of your cylinder, even though your gun is blued.

With a clean gun, push forward on the back of the cylinder as you hold the gun up to a light. You can see if there is any rubbing on the forcing cone as you eye the barrel/cylinder gap. It's important that you check this with each chamber as the cylinder rotates around. BTW, the fore-and-aft movement of the cylinder should be quite minimal, though that does sound vague if you are not sure of what to expect. Obviously, if there is any contact, then a repair trip is in order.

Next up is timing. Slowly cock the hammer back for each chamber. Does the cylinder lock into place BEFORE the hammer reaches the cocked position? If so, move on to the next check. Slowly pull the trigger double-action for each chamber. Again, the cylinder should be locked before the hammer releases to fall forward. Some guns will lock up well before, and some just barey prior to hammer fall. If that checks out, repeat the excercise. This time though, put some slight drag on the cylinder with your off-hand thumb or fingertip as it rotates. This is to simulate what occurs as lead and powder fouling builds up on the face of the cylinder, forcing cone, etc. This is where many guns won't check out. IOW, you will discover one or more chambers that have not locked-up before the hammer falls. That can be one of the reasons for occasional 'spitting' when you shoot. Again, repair is in order.
 
Thanks guys.

Gave her a good cleaning and I found a loose screw on the side plate. You know, the one that retains the cylinder mechanism. I checked her for time too. The timing seems to be good. My gun is one of those that barely gets locked up before the hammer falls. 95% of my shooting is done single action since this is my hunting gun.

Well, there is not anymore rubbing as I close the cylinder. I will keep a close eye on it and keep everybody informed. Thanks again everybody.

Boo586
 
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