S&W 38

Wizzard033

Inactive
Hello everyone I'm new here!
I love S&W and recently I inherited my grandfathers 38 C4046XX. MY grandfather bought it in 1959' and passed it to my father and I recently inherited it. I shot it Monday for the fist time. It hasn't been fired in nearly 50 years.
I read someone referring to another 38 here as a "light lug" and I wondered if that was the same as the pistol I have marked "Air weight" on the right side of the barrel.


http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w207/Wizzard033/2016-12-08%2020.52.33_zpseonadcgo.jpg
 
My condolences on the passing of your Father and Grandfather.

"Light lug" is probably somebody's term for the small lug holding the extractor rod tip latch on the standard M&Ps. Magnums have "full shrouds" or "half lugs" enclosing the extractor rods and a lot of later models have "full lugs" going all the way to the muzzle like a Python.

"Airweight" on your Grandfather's revolver shows it has an aluminum frame. Best not to shoot +P ammo in it unless the zombies get real bad, the Airweight guns are handy but not as strong as all steel.

Take care of it, it looks in excellent condition, the flat cylinder latch and "big diamond" Magna grips are desirable features.
 
I thought all the Pre 10 K frame models were designed for the higher powered rounds? This gun was manufactured in 58-59' but is a pre 10 model
 
If it is marked Airweight without a model number it is a "pre-model 12."
Smith did not "rate" their aluminum guns for heavy loads until some of the recent models.

Or are we talking about two different guns? Is Grandpa's Gun all steel and the Airweight from someplace else?
 
C4046xx is right on the cusp of when S&W started model-numbering their revolvers.

AFAIK there's some dispute as to whether it's wise to fire large numbers of +P rounds through steel-cylinder Airweight K frames, particularly pre-1957 examples. IIRC a poster on the S&W forum ran about 10k rounds of +P through a Model 12-2 with no apparent problems, but YMMV on an earlier example. However, I think it's safe to regard this as a "gun may loosen up" issue, rather than a "OMG gun will explode in your hand!" issue. Given the gun's sentimental value, I would personally stay on the safe side.

THAT SAID... if the gun has an aluminum alloy cylinder, DO NOT FIRE IT!! This IS an "OMG gun will explode in your hand" issue! :eek: S&W long ago decreed that the early alloy-cylinder Airweights are unsafe and prone to catastrophically blowing up even with standard-pressure ammo; they will replace the cylinder with a steel one if you send the gun in, but given the gun's sentimental and collector value, I keep it as-is and regard it as strictly a safe queen or wallhanger.
 
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Just buy another 38 S&W for everyday shooting and relegate Grandpas' gun to a gun safe or other display means. No need to shoot HD loads in that gun, why tempt fate? Grandpa would appreciate your having that gun and remembering him each time you look at it.
 
Sorry for the delay

I agree with everyone im just keeping it put away

I only fired 2 rounds out of it last week because it hadn't been fired in nearly 50 years.

Just one weapon Jim it was purchased in 59' manufacture date was between 59-59. Seriel number number C 4046XX. It has "Air weight stamped on the right side of the barrel. There is no model number stamped on it.

Thanks for the info and help everyone. I have another carry price and I might even try to find a nice 38 carry peice
 
Too late for aluminum cylinder and the color difference between blue steel and black anodizing is obvious.

My M12 is a later gun. Not a high volume shooter, but handy to drop in a coat pocket on a frosty day.
 
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