I took it out to the range worked beautifully....got home went to empty it so I could clean it up and it is locked up tighter than a drum.....cylinder won't turn, can't cock hammer, can't get cylinder open to empty it....it does not have an internal locking mechanism...checked that out first thing......talked to several gunsmiths they don't want to mess with it because it is loaded......any ideas how I might safely get this gun apart so I can get it fixed.....
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S&W .38 special model 637-1 airweight revolver
- Thread starter randy45
- Start date
Glenn E. Meyer
New member
That's probably it. See if you can tighten the end of the rod.
It's not uncommon with SW revolvers. If it's new - SW can fix it, so you can contact them. A gun smith can and charge you.
It's not uncommon with SW revolvers. If it's new - SW can fix it, so you can contact them. A gun smith can and charge you.
jetinteriorguy
New member
This used to happen on my M57 all the time until I removed the ejector rod and cleaned up the threads and then reassembled with blue loctite. No more problems even with many heavy magnum loads.
I'm pretty sure S&W rods have a left handed thread. iow they tighten when turned counter clockwise.
I used to have the same problem with my M-60, and give it a little snug-up check twist to the left every time before closing the cylinder. I wanted to avoid the Locktight so it would be easier to strip. I have used Locktight on other revolvers and it worked fine.
On yours I'd try to coax the knurled part of the ejector rod ccw with a wooden toothpick or something similar that won't scratch the gun.
Edit: forget the toothpick stuff, mine is in a shroud, but yours is easy to get to. Good luck.
I used to have the same problem with my M-60, and give it a little snug-up check twist to the left every time before closing the cylinder. I wanted to avoid the Locktight so it would be easier to strip. I have used Locktight on other revolvers and it worked fine.
On yours I'd try to coax the knurled part of the ejector rod ccw with a wooden toothpick or something similar that won't scratch the gun.
Edit: forget the toothpick stuff, mine is in a shroud, but yours is easy to get to. Good luck.
Using a bright light,look through the barrel/cylinder gap to be sure if there is a bullet stuck between the cylinder and the forcing cone, not allowing the cylinder to turn or be opened.
This can happen due to a squib load, a reload with no powder (Primer Only) or a load with little or no crimp on the bullet, allowing the bullet to creep forward out of the case under recoil.
Proceed accordingly---But BE CAREFUL!!!!!!
This can happen due to a squib load, a reload with no powder (Primer Only) or a load with little or no crimp on the bullet, allowing the bullet to creep forward out of the case under recoil.
Proceed accordingly---But BE CAREFUL!!!!!!
Shadi Khalil
New member
Like others said, its probably the ejection rod. I've had it happen to my 637 once before... Please let us know if that was the problem.
reloads?
If you were shooting reloads, I've had all sorts of problems ranging from difficulty with the cylinder to stuck cases due to a powder too slow. Combustion was adequate from a 6 inch N-frame but from my snubbies it was not. Unburnt powder usually got stuck between the case, cylinder wall, and under the star as the brass didn't expand enough to seal from blow-back. Also happened with a "factory reloaded" case that split.
I second checking for a stuck bullet - shine a light down the barrel - no fingers near the trigger. You may be able to see a bullet in the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone by looking from the side.
If that's not the case, see if you can assist the rotation of the cylinder with your fingers in conjunction with partially pulling the hammer. If you can I wouldn't cock the hammer all the way since you'd have to decock it. Normal rotation should be counter clockwise from the shooter's perspective. A partially backed out case could be causing a lot of friction on the recoil plate, and could ease up when the chamber rotates. Fingers off the trigger, tape the trigger guard if you have to.
If you were shooting reloads, I've had all sorts of problems ranging from difficulty with the cylinder to stuck cases due to a powder too slow. Combustion was adequate from a 6 inch N-frame but from my snubbies it was not. Unburnt powder usually got stuck between the case, cylinder wall, and under the star as the brass didn't expand enough to seal from blow-back. Also happened with a "factory reloaded" case that split.
I second checking for a stuck bullet - shine a light down the barrel - no fingers near the trigger. You may be able to see a bullet in the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone by looking from the side.
If that's not the case, see if you can assist the rotation of the cylinder with your fingers in conjunction with partially pulling the hammer. If you can I wouldn't cock the hammer all the way since you'd have to decock it. Normal rotation should be counter clockwise from the shooter's perspective. A partially backed out case could be causing a lot of friction on the recoil plate, and could ease up when the chamber rotates. Fingers off the trigger, tape the trigger guard if you have to.
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