S&W 342 Ti -- need use input

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Oleg Volk

Staff Alumnus
I gifted my Pocket Weasel (Kel-tec P32) to a friend. The first range session together the damn thing cracked the frame and will be going to Kel-tec for a replacement. Anyhow, I went to pick up another P32 for myself preparing to trouble-shoot it. Being a little worried about the durability, I took a closer look and found that the gun was much rougher and less well assembled than my old P32. I did not buy it.

I did buy a factory rep sample SW342Ti snubbie.

I don't care for snubbies but my other choices (Colt Mustang Pocketlite and P32) were not available. At 11oz, this gun seems to fit the same niche.

Other than pocket carry, what are other options? This gun is pretty thick compared to others I have and I'd welcome advice.

What sort of ammo would you recommend?

How durable is this gun? Should I limit the amount of ammo fired through it to extend its life? Any special notes on care and cleaning?

If the windage is not right on, what are my choices for correcting the sights?
 
I have one. Great to carry, a bear to shoot.

My favorite mode of carry (other than pocket) is in an ankle holster (mine is a modified Galco) or (and I don't have the brand) a strange inside the waistband holster that holds the gun lower than most so that it is almost totally below the beltline. It works kind of like thunderwear, whereby you have to take a deep breath and pull it out with two fingers. The difference is that this has a clip, whereas the thunderwear has a strap.

I carry .38 +p Golden Sabre's in mine, but I can't tell you how well they work since I've never shot anything but paper.

Regarding the sights, beats me! I know you can't twist the barrel because of the "barrellete". My best idea would be to try to bend the front sight a little.

Good luck!
 
FWIW, even though S&W Ti J-frames can handle +P loads, I generally prefer standard pressure cartridges in guns of this size and weight. So, I load my 342PD Ti with Federal Nyclad HPs. I may reconsider this preference, though, and instead use Speer Gold Dot +Ps, which seem to shoot well in this gun.

As far as a windage adjustment is concerned, if there was a problem I think the only course of action I'd take would be to ship the gun to the S&W service department.

The question about carry options is also interesting. My 342PD Ti is so light, and pocket carry is so desirable in the hot climate where I live, that so far I haven't considered any other carry options for it. An IWB holster sounds like a promising alternative, though. Meanwhile, whenever given the opportunity to carry on a belt, I go with a G26 or a P228. :)




[Edited by jimmy on 01-03-2001 at 04:50 PM]
 
Any idea as to why the backstrap is grooved in such a funny manner? How would I use the "bantam tool" to remoe the grips?
 
The grooves contribute to the light weight.

No S**T. They are a classic little weapon. If you are carrying all the time, they are the way to go. The frame is Aluminum, just the cylinder is titanium, which is heavier than aluminum, BTW! Coulda knocked me over with a feather.

You can also get an airweight that weighs about 3 ounces more. But if you carry, every ounce is noticeable.

About recoil: not to say it is not accurate, but this is not a target pistol; it is a life and death pistol. I would sure not worry about the kick if somebody was beating me with a tire iron or trying to wrestle me to the ground. Think of the intended application, not the kick, which is a side effect!

Normally, the sights are dead on, btw. You won't need them with it pressed against your assailant's ribs, anyway. ;)

HTH

[Edited by BigG on 01-03-2001 at 06:42 PM]
 
Oleg--AFAIK the 342 Ti backstrap groove has no function other than to reduce the amount of metal in the gun, therefore paring down the weight of the frame to a minimum. Likewise the groove underneath the triggerguard, etc.

Regarding removal or replacement of the Bantam grip, I must be overlooking something, because I've found it to be problematic, even with the Bantam tool. I think the idea is to use the tool to keep the grip spread and free of the stock pin from start to finish. If the grip is not spread enough, the stock pin will gouge shavings of neoprene off the inside of the grip (I've had this happen). Remember that as the grip slides on or off, the position of the stock pin changes relative to the grip. Therefore the Bantam tool needs to be repositioned to follow the stock pin, so that the grip will still be spread around the pin. But if the grip is spread too wide, it will be "sprung" and no longer fit flush with the frame (I've had this happen, too).

Also, IIRC, on some 342 Ti revolvers, the lanyard pin is a roll pin, whereas on others it is solid. The solid lanyard pin is retained by the grip, I believe. When the grip is removed or replaced, this pin may fall out and become lost unless care is taken.

Once properly installed, the Bantam grip is, to me, a worthwhile, quality product. This may be subjective, but I find that the recoil of my 342PD Ti with +Ps and a Bantam grip feels about the same as--or maybe even less than--my somewhat heavier, walnut-stocked Model 37 with standard pressure loads. YMMV.

HTH. :)
 
Oleg-

My wife has one. It is well made and handles regular and +P .38 Specia loads quite well. The only problem is that with +P loads IT REALLY KICKS. Our solution is standard loads for practice and +P for carry.
 
Pocket and ankle.

I haven't carried it any other way. It is an awesome little gun and kicks like a bear with +p ammo.
I am currently using cor-bon 110+p loads and all I gotta say is OWWWWWEEEEEE.
It is a carry alot, shoot a little gun.

The aluminum J-frames are very durable, as long as you stick to standard pressure loads. The use of +p will accelerate wear of the little feller.
I put the Bantam grips on mine, I had to buy them as they were not offered when I got my little feller.
You use the bantam tool in the opening on the bottom of the grips and gently slide it up to open them up enough to get them off. BE VERY CAREFUL not to over spread the grips or you will ruin them as they are only held on by pressure and once "sprung" they are ruined.

I like the black finish on yours better, mine has the gray finish on it and it isn't as pretty. Then again, mine is over a year old and that finish wasn't offered yet. I see a sad pattern here. :)

You are pretty much stuck with the sights, personally I want to get a tritium site to pin in place of the front sight on mine, but I am just a kid in the candy store sometimes.

Care and cleaning is easy, almost nothing will rust on the guns, so cleanliness is more for reliability than necessity.

Best wishes,
Mikey
 
Oleg, the shape is a little different than a semiauto. Although it is thicker in the cylinder, it is thinner in other areas and you may find that it can be carried less conspicuously than a similar-sized pistol.

As noted, the backstrap groove is for further weight reduction. I have not had trouble with the bantam grip tool, but I think the Bantam grips are on the "sticky" side for concealed carry. A pair of real Spegal bootgrips in wood is smoother, fills the hand better, and doesn't weigh much (probably less than the factory bootgrips but more than the Bantam grips).

Durability -- the revolver or your hand? The recoil impulse from these is very different from most handguns. Sharp and quick -- not much force, but no dwell either. IMO you need to choke up high on the backstrap -- you will have very little muzzle flip if you do. But you will not fire very many +P rounds. You can practice fine on lower velocity ammo and save both you and the gun some wear and tear. For carry, although opinions differ, the sweet spot seems to be a bullet around 125 gr at +P speeds. Try some ProLoads -- Gold Dot bullets, very accurate loads, wicked good customer service (no connection).

I have owned several J-frames and never had a windage problem. S&W or others can replace the pinned-in front sight with a blade with a tritium vial for relatively short money. You will spend almost as much on S&H (thanks to the overnight requirement) as on the job itself. You can also get the rear drilled so that you'll have a 3-dot sight arrangement.

If you have the loot, you might consider getting a similar all-SS J-frame for range practice. In fact, I've been looking for a used 3" Model 60. Could be a good "kit gun" and could also serve as a range practice (near) double for the Ti version. The extra weight makes a big difference, and the later SS Js are rated for .357 Mag with their strengthened frames.
 
I too carry a 342 and prefer pocket carry. Other options are an ankle holster (Alessi) and Mark THG makes the BS-2 (M/D Enterprises) for hip carry that is very high ride for wearing with a short jacket. Alessi also makes an excellent x-draw, the RCMP Drivers X-draw, if you like that method. I carry either MagSafe or RBCD Performance Plus since those offer the lightest bullet weights in an attempt to keep down recoil. For practice I use the 125gr WinClean target load from Winchester. I don't know if you have that available over there, but it is about as light a recoil that you might find short of a 148gr LHBWC. Even with those you don't want to shoot it all day.
 
anouther for for dropping it in your pocket (in holster) I also practice with win. clean 125g ammo,I like to stick with lighter loads anything from 90g-125g is fairly pleasent to shoot,for carry i am using FED Pd 110g jhp's, imop the 342ti is the best pocket gun available. (i have also carried in a belly band crossdraw it completly dissapears in the weight is virtualy unnoticable)
 
Oleg, Bianchi also sells bellybands (www.bianchiinternational.com -- I think). I have used Uncle Mike's -- it's not bad. These are pretty "deep" carry -- another way of saying slower than most others. OTOH, it is always on your body, even if (for example) you are not wearing pants and belt. This could be important not only because it gives you access but also because it keeps unauthorized users (say, kids) from getting their hands on it in situations (like some camping situations) where there's not other secure storage option. You can even sleep with it on (depends on your shape) where that's necessary for security/secured storage.

Just to make sure it gets said, "pocket" guns should always be in some kind of holster, to avoid inadvertent access to the trigger.
 
I dry-fired it a bit.

Nice trigger.

Really good pointing: I'd click and then check the sights w/o movign the gun...they were right on all the time.

Can't wait to try live ammo. Does anyone make factory 90gr JHPs?
 
winchester makes a 90g sthp that is a nice hp round and very pleasent to shoot, try http://www.cheaperthandirt.com, I use this company alot for ammo and outher items, ammo prices/ selection can't be beat and there service is phenominal, everything i have orderd i have had it at my door in 5-10 days(most recently a galco horsehide pocket holster)
 
I have a 442 (Airweight) with which I utilize several of the carry methods previously mentioned. I use mostly Thunderwear (which I can use with almost any clothing), but I also am quite fond of a Blade-tech IWB holster carried SOB; I use this in the summer quite often with shorts and an untucked, light button-down shirt. SOB carry has its drawbacks, but unlike with autos, the J-frame grip has a very rounded profile which almost doesn't print at all when bending forward, and the bulk of the weapon rides behind the belt. Access is very quick with this rig, and it is fairly inconspicuous. Best wishes.

Andrew
 
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