S&W 340 Scandium Range Impressions

2

22lovr

New member
I finally got a chance to break in my new 340SC. The guys at the range were betting I'd need the first-aid kit or 911. I started out with .38 spcl loads: 20 158 gr SWC's, then 20 125 gr SJHP+P's, and finally, switched up to some .357 125 gr SJHP range ammo and shot 30 of those.

No, I didn't get shredded or suffer any hand fractures. The .38 loads handled almost identically to my S&W mod 638. At 7 yards, the gun consistently shot about 3" from POA at the 2 O'clock position. I don't think it's the gun; just me getting a new piece sorted out. (anyone want to venture why I'm up-and-to-the right?) Trigger is not as smooth as my older 638 but it's brand-new and I do like the short, crisp pull.

Now, about those .357 rounds in a 12 oz snubby: Yeh, they're pretty stout but still manageable. Other than a couple of embarrassing flyers, I managed to keep all the groupings in a pie-plate-sized area. The worst beating was the front side of my trigger finger which got smacked by the trigger guard during the recoil on the .357 rounds. When I got done, the web of my hand was a little red but nothing worse than shooting PLUS-P's out of my P11.

Shooting the .38's was a breeze but I'll confess that shooting the .357 loads was not what I'd call pleasant. It's not a plinker and I have other toys that are a joy to shoot. This one's mostly for the serious business of self-defense. Yes, I'm pleased with my purchase; if you're not recoil-shy, it's an almost ideal pocket-carry piece that packs power into a featherweight package.
 
My 340PD is going strong. Practicing with lite .357 and carrying full-power Fed 125gr .357. I think Smith did an excellent job with this gun. Well made, tight. Just needs slightly larger grips like these:
 

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I would change the grips also, but....

I find the Hogue Bantams on the 340SC quite adequate. However, I would rather replace them with grips that have exactly the same dimension, but are simply slick plastic. I find the Hogues a little tacky and "grabby" when drawing from the pocket. Anyone know where I can get some bantam grips that are slick plastic? Just curious.
 
jeff...I don't know about plastic, but I use the wood boot grips that you see on some new j frame smiths, or I think you can get some from craig spiegal.Or, you could go with uncle mikes boot grips which are not as sticky as the hogue.....tom
 
I second the recommendation for wood grips (I use Craig Spegel's boot grips on my 340PD, but there are nice ones from Eagle Grip and others). Can't get any slicker than uncheckered wood!
 
I second that review. I love my 340sc. If you shoot on a dusty range, the muzzle blast will kick up dust from a standing position! (Cool!)

22:
The trigger pull will get MUCH better with regular use. Mine is absolutely 300% better than it was new. I would suggest dryfiring alot. This is not a 200 round-a-day gun! ;)


Almost forgot. Anyone have a goos source for the Spegel Boot Grips? I would like to try the grips that go all the way up the backstrap.
 
Dave, check out Hogue. They have a wood grip called the "Monogrip", which is a one piece deal. They are a little pricey, but what isn't nowadays;)
I've got them on SWMBO's model 60.
 
Dave AA - the Spegel Boot Grip design in rubber/plastic/whatever is made by Butler Creek, and can be ordered online: see http://www.michaels-oregon.com/butlercreek.asp?brand=0, select "Pistol Grips" from their listing, and then at the bottom of the description, select "Product List" for full details of what they make.

For wood Spegel grips, talk to the man! His number is (503) 368-5653.

I'd like to add that the Spegel grips are the most comfortable and concealable I know for small-framed guns. I use them on everything from Model 66's to snubbies. The Bantam is an excellent grip design, but it is very "sticky", and tends to drag concealment clothing around with it, making it "print" rather obviously. I have no such problems with Butler Creek grips.
 
I think you are looking for these on my 442....smooth hard nylon...clothes don't grab but not as slick in the hand as plastic or smooth wood....brownells has them for 15 bucks in 4 styles (smooth, stippled, finger grooves, no grooves)....they are called hideout grips....

aluminum_4422.jpg
 
22lovr, I wonder if anyone's managed to shoot the 340/360 without getting their trigger finger banged up by the guard.

I just posted a new thread about a possible deal with Hogue on an order of at least 10 wood full-size, round-butt-to-square-butt conversion, J-frame grips. Sounds like you wanna keep it short for pocket-carry, but, I'm anxious to see if a nice full 3-finger, square-butt grip would help alleviate some of the pain.
 
I've never had a problem with the trigger guard banging my trigger finger (think this depends upon one's finger size, to some extent), but I do get a solid "whack" in the webbing of the hand by the hammer hump each time I touch off anything in 357 mag (even the "lite" loads).
 
Tried out my new scandium 340 yesterday. First I tried 38 +P's. then I removed the handle and put a piece of paper around the metal handle frame and attached it with a bit of masking tape. I did this because it's the way i carried my aluminum bodyguard airweight for years, in my front pocket, handle removed and handle frame wrapped with tape. It makes the gun much flatter and concealable in my front pocket, plus if someone peeks in my pocket, tehy don't see a recognizable gun handle.

Then, with no handle, except for a piece of paper and a bit of masking tape - which is much less cushioning than I'd have when I finally set it up the way I want it, that is with some cloth tape wrapped around the handle giving a better grip and some cushioning - I loaded it up with .357 Mag 130gr Hydrashocks.

First I shot two handed and then one-handed. Just shot four of 'em. Like everyone says, it's no fun! It smarts! But my hand's fine.

I'll probably go with the hottest 38+P or +P+ (what's that, Corbon?). 357 mag wouldn't be as harsh now that i've taped up the handle properly, but still, I'm not sure about the efficacy of follow up shots due to the extremely harsh kick, and in an emergency situation, one might not have the gun in a perfect grip.

Oh, one more thing - in case someone wants to use my technique - when i tape the handle, I first make plastic cutouts to protect the exposed spring inside the handle frame.

Oh, yes, I also puilled out the big handle pin from the handle frame. Now it's nice and flat and compact.

A question: The new 340's, like mine, have a built-in lock gizmo (besides the trigger lock gadget that comes with it), a tiny hole into which one can insert a tiny key in order to render the gun inoperable. There's no chance of that thing accidentally locking itself up, is there? Is there?

ww
 
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