a relative left me this gun a few years back. it is a 4'' blued fixed sight j-frame from circa 1955. it fires .32 s&w long ammo. the sentimental attachment is the only reason this gun has lasted. i want to know any modifications i could make to the gun that would increase enjoyment. the trigger sucks in d.a. but it is accurate. can i get it rebored to accept .32 h&r mag? i also think a trigger job/barrel amputation would help. possibly a 2'' barrel would make me like the old gun better. it is also the only firearm i own that is not traceable to me in a shtf scenario!
s&w 31 question
- Thread starter porkskin
- Start date
Mike Irwin
Staff
You can fairly cheaply change out the springs to give a lighter trigger pull.
Do NOT rechamber the gun for .32 Magnum. It was not designed for those kinds of pressures and it would quickly shoot loose.
You can also likely find a 2" barrel from Gun Parts Corporation. It's a relatively simply job for a gunsmith to swap barrels on these guns.
Do NOT rechamber the gun for .32 Magnum. It was not designed for those kinds of pressures and it would quickly shoot loose.
You can also likely find a 2" barrel from Gun Parts Corporation. It's a relatively simply job for a gunsmith to swap barrels on these guns.
Sir William
New member
First, the trigger and action are stiff in order to fire off reliably. I cannot suggest replacing anything to lighten the action. A qualified gunsmith can polish the internals and reduce friction. A good cleaning and lubrication with modern anti-friction compounds will help. No, you cannot rechamber the revolver for 32 H&R Magnum. The barrel swap is impractical. The barrel would need to be replaced, the ejector rod would need to be replaced and the revolver would need to be retimed. I think you would be upside down in costs v. benefits. I suggest Mag Tech 32 S&W Longs.
Mike Irwin
Staff
At this point, I've done over 100 spring replacements on S&W revolvers -- my own and those owned by friends, coworkers, etc., and in only two cases have I experienced any reliability issues. In both cases these werer resolved with a little judicious polishing and lubrication.
These include at least 3 J-frame .32s, one of my own and two owned by friends.
A stiff trigger can be caused by two springs, not just one -- the rebound slide spring and the main spring.
Often, replacing the rebound slide spring with one in the 13 to 15 pound class, as opposed to to the factory standard 18 to 20 pound class, can have a dramatic effect on the trigger pull without affecting firing reliability one bit.
The main spring can also be replaced with a Wolfe reduced power spring, and likely 99 times out of 100 it won't cause reliability problems, either.
An action polishing job can reduce the apparent trigger pull, but as often as not it won't bring about the results that the shooter is hoping for.
Replacing the springs in your J-frame is easy, but you need an exploded view with action disassembly instructions such as those found in NRA's manuals, as well as a spring kit, which you can obtain from either Brownell's, Wolff, Midway, etc.
Barrel replacements on S&W revolvers, at least the ones using the pin, rarely require cylinder retiming. If the barrel was properly located in the frame to begin with, and the cylinder already properly timed, it's a straight switch.
Replacing the ejector rod, if necessary (not sure if it would be or not) is also a very simple task.
These include at least 3 J-frame .32s, one of my own and two owned by friends.
A stiff trigger can be caused by two springs, not just one -- the rebound slide spring and the main spring.
Often, replacing the rebound slide spring with one in the 13 to 15 pound class, as opposed to to the factory standard 18 to 20 pound class, can have a dramatic effect on the trigger pull without affecting firing reliability one bit.
The main spring can also be replaced with a Wolfe reduced power spring, and likely 99 times out of 100 it won't cause reliability problems, either.
An action polishing job can reduce the apparent trigger pull, but as often as not it won't bring about the results that the shooter is hoping for.
Replacing the springs in your J-frame is easy, but you need an exploded view with action disassembly instructions such as those found in NRA's manuals, as well as a spring kit, which you can obtain from either Brownell's, Wolff, Midway, etc.
Barrel replacements on S&W revolvers, at least the ones using the pin, rarely require cylinder retiming. If the barrel was properly located in the frame to begin with, and the cylinder already properly timed, it's a straight switch.
Replacing the ejector rod, if necessary (not sure if it would be or not) is also a very simple task.
.... And you want to totally change the weapon that was left to you for sentimental reasons? Do yourself and other S&W affectiendos a favor- learn to like the weapon the way it is, or sell it to someone who can appreciate it the way it is. It's hard to see folks go changing stuff on sentimental items... where's the sentiment?
Sir William
New member
IIRC, a ca. 1955 M31 is a 5 screw J? My reason for suggesting polishing and modern lubrication is to maintain the collector status, IOWs, keep it original. I also feel that a pinned barrel, 4" M31 should not be subject to amputation and other radical modifications. It is a sentimental heirloom. Replace it, don't change it. I have swapped springs out. I don't suggest it to be the first operation in improving a action. Polishing and lubrication is first.
Mike Irwin
Staff
Least invasive first, which means swapping springs and lubricating.
Then more invasive.
As for swapping barrels, etc. It's his gun.
One thing I forgot to mention - It wasn't a J-frame until 1961.
Between 1957 and 1961 it was an improved I frame.
Prior to 1957 and the beginning of model number stamping, it was a Regulation Police.
Surprisingly, none of these from this time frame are particularly collectible unless they're absolutely 100% mint, with an excellent box, paperwork, and anything S&W might have stuck into the box in that time frame. Just a ton were made, and they can be found in surpringly good condition. Many were bought, stuck in drawers as house guns, and never fired.
As for barrel amputation, it's pork's gun, I don't much care what he does with it.
Then more invasive.
As for swapping barrels, etc. It's his gun.
One thing I forgot to mention - It wasn't a J-frame until 1961.
Between 1957 and 1961 it was an improved I frame.
Prior to 1957 and the beginning of model number stamping, it was a Regulation Police.
Surprisingly, none of these from this time frame are particularly collectible unless they're absolutely 100% mint, with an excellent box, paperwork, and anything S&W might have stuck into the box in that time frame. Just a ton were made, and they can be found in surpringly good condition. Many were bought, stuck in drawers as house guns, and never fired.
As for barrel amputation, it's pork's gun, I don't much care what he does with it.
S&W Model 31
Hello
That revolver will NOT shoot the .32 H&R Magnum.. Even if you had the cylinder bored to accept the longer caseing it is not going to take the pressure of the newer .32 mag. round which is almost DOUBLE of the standard .32 S&W Long.I would NOT even consider that move.. I have one and have found it to be one of the sweetest accuarte shooting -J-frame S&W revolvers that I have owned. Simply purchase Remington standard .32 S&W long ammo which is a lead bullet and you too will be amazed at the accuracy.. Now on to the action.. A good book that will show you exactly how to improve the action on that revolver is the "The S&W revolver a shop manuel" By Jerry Kuhnhausen. It is the BEST 25.00 you can spend. It gives details on how to make a action smooth as glass along with many detailed pictures and processes that are PROVEN. I would buy it even if you do not plan to do your own work, as it tells you the procedure and makes you aware of all the things to STAY clear of. I definately would NOT place a spring kit in any -J-frame revolver !! I have tried this in the past and found most to implicate light strikes on the primer and this can be very dangerous. Your revolver simply need's the fit and finish of the rebound slide, along with other components POLISHED to allow a smooth action. You have a choice here to either pay 25.00 and read the book described or pay a gun smith double that to do the same process that is simple after you read and understand it.. here is a picture of MY 31-1 circa 1967.. Shoot your's and enjoy it without molesting it.. Hammerdown
Hello
That revolver will NOT shoot the .32 H&R Magnum.. Even if you had the cylinder bored to accept the longer caseing it is not going to take the pressure of the newer .32 mag. round which is almost DOUBLE of the standard .32 S&W Long.I would NOT even consider that move.. I have one and have found it to be one of the sweetest accuarte shooting -J-frame S&W revolvers that I have owned. Simply purchase Remington standard .32 S&W long ammo which is a lead bullet and you too will be amazed at the accuracy.. Now on to the action.. A good book that will show you exactly how to improve the action on that revolver is the "The S&W revolver a shop manuel" By Jerry Kuhnhausen. It is the BEST 25.00 you can spend. It gives details on how to make a action smooth as glass along with many detailed pictures and processes that are PROVEN. I would buy it even if you do not plan to do your own work, as it tells you the procedure and makes you aware of all the things to STAY clear of. I definately would NOT place a spring kit in any -J-frame revolver !! I have tried this in the past and found most to implicate light strikes on the primer and this can be very dangerous. Your revolver simply need's the fit and finish of the rebound slide, along with other components POLISHED to allow a smooth action. You have a choice here to either pay 25.00 and read the book described or pay a gun smith double that to do the same process that is simple after you read and understand it.. here is a picture of MY 31-1 circa 1967.. Shoot your's and enjoy it without molesting it.. Hammerdown
Mike Irwin
Staff
"I definately would NOT place a spring kit in any -J-frame revolver !! I have tried this in the past and found most to implicate light strikes on the primer and this can be very dangerous."
Dangerous?
DANGEROUS?
What, a resprung J frame becomes a vicious killing machine with a mind of its own that wrenches itself free from your hand, spins around, and puts a couple of bullets into your coconut, your dog, your wife, your kids?
I'm looking, on my desk, at 3 J frames that have reduced power spring kits in them, including my 042, the one that I carry more than any other. Not one of them has had any reliability issues at all after being resprung.
I've also resprung at least a dozen other J frames. One one, a .22, had even a hint of reliability issues, and a quick hammer boss polishing solve that nicely.
Part of working on any gun is actually firing it AFTERWARDS to make sure that your modifications haven't compromised reliability.
Yes, the J frame is apparently slightly more prone to issues with reduced power spring kits (but not enough so that it's mentioned in the shop manual), but it doesn't exactly take a degree in advanced rocket science to figure out if it will work reliably after respringing.
Nice Regulation Police. I have a 2" that's just a sweetie. I'd link to the picture I posted here some time ago, but the search is down right now.
Dangerous?
DANGEROUS?
What, a resprung J frame becomes a vicious killing machine with a mind of its own that wrenches itself free from your hand, spins around, and puts a couple of bullets into your coconut, your dog, your wife, your kids?
I'm looking, on my desk, at 3 J frames that have reduced power spring kits in them, including my 042, the one that I carry more than any other. Not one of them has had any reliability issues at all after being resprung.
I've also resprung at least a dozen other J frames. One one, a .22, had even a hint of reliability issues, and a quick hammer boss polishing solve that nicely.
Part of working on any gun is actually firing it AFTERWARDS to make sure that your modifications haven't compromised reliability.
Yes, the J frame is apparently slightly more prone to issues with reduced power spring kits (but not enough so that it's mentioned in the shop manual), but it doesn't exactly take a degree in advanced rocket science to figure out if it will work reliably after respringing.
Nice Regulation Police. I have a 2" that's just a sweetie. I'd link to the picture I posted here some time ago, but the search is down right now.
Dangerous?
DANGEROUS?
What, a resprung J frame becomes a vicious killing machine with a mind of its own that wrenches itself free from your hand, spins around, and puts a couple of bullets into your coconut
Hello Yes, Dangerous, and many Seasoned Gun Smith's have advised NOT to insall these makeshift action solutions in your revolver. A MORE experienced revolver person would KNOW this but I suppose it is a cheap way out to try to remidy a problem that lies in poor fit & Finish to begin with.. If these springs were the answer and so reliable, Then WHY do they include several different weights of springs in the package. it appears to me that the manufacture does not have a clue of the REAL problem to begin with and is simply giving a multiple choice to send them like that.I have better thing's to do with my time than pop on and off the side plate trying to access which combination will help the problem, when I know in reality, that I am merly placing a band aid on a cut.The S&W-J-frame, is also the ONLY revolver S&W will NOT do a action job on at the Factory.. Ask them? ONE of the main reasons for this is a coil spring will LOOSE it's natural shape over time, along with the actual pound rating and it is too hard to predict if that would place a revolver into a light strike situation which ANY experienced revolver person know's is a Dangerous situation if firing double action it can and HAS blown a revolver apart & I have seen the evidence.Do the smart thing.. Buy the book mentioned or leave the action work to a professional .Or you can risk a perfect revolver to a Blow up siuation. it's your's to do with but I would consult with a well seasoned gun smith prior to changing any of the factory spec. springs, and I certainly would NOT suggest modifying any for friends as it may place you in the sight's of and upset widow if this modification was to lead to a Blown revolver when rapid double action firing took place...Something to THINK before doing I would say.. Best regards, Hammer It.
DANGEROUS?
What, a resprung J frame becomes a vicious killing machine with a mind of its own that wrenches itself free from your hand, spins around, and puts a couple of bullets into your coconut
Hello Yes, Dangerous, and many Seasoned Gun Smith's have advised NOT to insall these makeshift action solutions in your revolver. A MORE experienced revolver person would KNOW this but I suppose it is a cheap way out to try to remidy a problem that lies in poor fit & Finish to begin with.. If these springs were the answer and so reliable, Then WHY do they include several different weights of springs in the package. it appears to me that the manufacture does not have a clue of the REAL problem to begin with and is simply giving a multiple choice to send them like that.I have better thing's to do with my time than pop on and off the side plate trying to access which combination will help the problem, when I know in reality, that I am merly placing a band aid on a cut.The S&W-J-frame, is also the ONLY revolver S&W will NOT do a action job on at the Factory.. Ask them? ONE of the main reasons for this is a coil spring will LOOSE it's natural shape over time, along with the actual pound rating and it is too hard to predict if that would place a revolver into a light strike situation which ANY experienced revolver person know's is a Dangerous situation if firing double action it can and HAS blown a revolver apart & I have seen the evidence.Do the smart thing.. Buy the book mentioned or leave the action work to a professional .Or you can risk a perfect revolver to a Blow up siuation. it's your's to do with but I would consult with a well seasoned gun smith prior to changing any of the factory spec. springs, and I certainly would NOT suggest modifying any for friends as it may place you in the sight's of and upset widow if this modification was to lead to a Blown revolver when rapid double action firing took place...Something to THINK before doing I would say.. Best regards, Hammer It.
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Mike Irwin
Staff
You know, read my original message.
I've done over 100 S&W action jobs. In fact, they're the only revolver that I work on. I've never kept records as to how it has broken out, but I know I've done this to at least a dozen J frame (as well as a couple of I frames) with no major problems at all, and only minor ones that were easily resolved with a little judicious polishing.
Kuhnhausen makes absolutely no mention of not respringing J-frames in any edition of his shop manual. How do I know? I HAVE it.
But, since you're so certain about Kuhnhausen, please provide the page citation where Kuhnhausen says NOT to replace the coil springs.
Mac Scott, one of the principals of Scott & McDougal Gunsmithing in California has never mentioned word one to me about any "danger" inherent in respringing a J frame in our many conversations over the years.
I'm also still trying to figure out what you mean by "dangerous." You never quite define that. You just ramble on about danger and "m,any seasoned gunsmiths."
Ok, since you apparently know "many seasonsed gunsmiths" who supposedly feel this way, let's have their names, and I'll get in touch with each and every one of them.
"ONE of the main reasons for this is a coil spring will LOOSE it's natural shape over time, along with the actual pound rating and it is too hard to predict if that would place a revolver into a light strike situation which ANY experienced revolver person know's is a Dangerous situation if firing double action it can and HAS blown a revolver apart & I have seen the evidence."
A light spring strike from a coil spring will cause a revolver to blow apart?
BULL!
That is the most patently assinine thing I have EVER heard!
A light strike on a primer will not cause the gun to explode. If that were the case, there would be thousands of destroyed rifles, semi-autos, shotguns, etc. littering the landscape.
I've no clue where you came up with this tidbit of knowledge, but you need to disabuse yourself of it.
I've done over 100 S&W action jobs. In fact, they're the only revolver that I work on. I've never kept records as to how it has broken out, but I know I've done this to at least a dozen J frame (as well as a couple of I frames) with no major problems at all, and only minor ones that were easily resolved with a little judicious polishing.
Kuhnhausen makes absolutely no mention of not respringing J-frames in any edition of his shop manual. How do I know? I HAVE it.
But, since you're so certain about Kuhnhausen, please provide the page citation where Kuhnhausen says NOT to replace the coil springs.
Mac Scott, one of the principals of Scott & McDougal Gunsmithing in California has never mentioned word one to me about any "danger" inherent in respringing a J frame in our many conversations over the years.
I'm also still trying to figure out what you mean by "dangerous." You never quite define that. You just ramble on about danger and "m,any seasoned gunsmiths."
Ok, since you apparently know "many seasonsed gunsmiths" who supposedly feel this way, let's have their names, and I'll get in touch with each and every one of them.
"ONE of the main reasons for this is a coil spring will LOOSE it's natural shape over time, along with the actual pound rating and it is too hard to predict if that would place a revolver into a light strike situation which ANY experienced revolver person know's is a Dangerous situation if firing double action it can and HAS blown a revolver apart & I have seen the evidence."
A light spring strike from a coil spring will cause a revolver to blow apart?
BULL!
That is the most patently assinine thing I have EVER heard!
A light strike on a primer will not cause the gun to explode. If that were the case, there would be thousands of destroyed rifles, semi-autos, shotguns, etc. littering the landscape.
I've no clue where you came up with this tidbit of knowledge, but you need to disabuse yourself of it.
Mike Irwin
Staff
Oh, by the way, I just got off the phone with a customer service representative at Smith & Wesson.
I played the "consumer not happy with his J frame revolver" and talked to him about my early-1990s Chief's Special, the one that had the really horrendous trigger pull from the factory...
Smith will certainly work on J frames, including internal polishing... you know, that's normally called an action job.
The CSR did mention that they won't do a "full action job" of the type that they would do on the larger frame guns, but that's because of the frame design, what with it using a coil spring and all.
As for the springs, the CSR said, and I quote, "S&W is, by law, required to bring the gun back to factory specifications" regarding spring weight.
When I asked about my possibly installing a lightweight spring set after I got it back if I still wasn't happy... "well, that's your option." (which is classified as a non-comittal response).
There were absolutely NO dire warnings about the gun exploding in my hand from light hammer strikes.
No dire warnings about unreliability.
In other words, no duh.
But then again, given that my Chief's Special has had a Wolfe reduced power coil spring and reduced power rebound slide spring in it since 2000, and with absolutely ZERO failures to fire or function of any kind, and certainly ZERO gun exploding into many small fragments and killing hundreds of innocent bystanders, I already knew this.
I played the "consumer not happy with his J frame revolver" and talked to him about my early-1990s Chief's Special, the one that had the really horrendous trigger pull from the factory...
Smith will certainly work on J frames, including internal polishing... you know, that's normally called an action job.
The CSR did mention that they won't do a "full action job" of the type that they would do on the larger frame guns, but that's because of the frame design, what with it using a coil spring and all.
As for the springs, the CSR said, and I quote, "S&W is, by law, required to bring the gun back to factory specifications" regarding spring weight.
When I asked about my possibly installing a lightweight spring set after I got it back if I still wasn't happy... "well, that's your option." (which is classified as a non-comittal response).
There were absolutely NO dire warnings about the gun exploding in my hand from light hammer strikes.
No dire warnings about unreliability.
In other words, no duh.
But then again, given that my Chief's Special has had a Wolfe reduced power coil spring and reduced power rebound slide spring in it since 2000, and with absolutely ZERO failures to fire or function of any kind, and certainly ZERO gun exploding into many small fragments and killing hundreds of innocent bystanders, I already knew this.
Hello Mike
If you would LOOK at the response FROM S&W it matces what I said. /QUOTE/ They DO-NOT do action job's on-J-frames The CSR did mention that they won't do a "full action job" of the type that they would do on the larger frame guns, but that's because of the frame design, what with it using a coil spring and all'/QUOTE/ PERIOD.
Why do you think they place the stronger spring ? BECAUSE of failure to hit the primer correctly and YES no matter what you have TRIED to point out it is dangerous.. I value the opinion of a REAL Gunsmith.. Not a person that buys hodge podge parts from Brownells..
Good luck to you this Rant is OVER you NEED Kuhnhausens book to read to familiarize your self with what you are trying to MASK here which is POOR finish inside. NOT at all the spring issue.. That is if you CAN afford it.
.. STILL waiting for YOUR pictures or DONT you have a CAMERA Either ??? Hammer It.
If you would LOOK at the response FROM S&W it matces what I said. /QUOTE/ They DO-NOT do action job's on-J-frames The CSR did mention that they won't do a "full action job" of the type that they would do on the larger frame guns, but that's because of the frame design, what with it using a coil spring and all'/QUOTE/ PERIOD.
Why do you think they place the stronger spring ? BECAUSE of failure to hit the primer correctly and YES no matter what you have TRIED to point out it is dangerous.. I value the opinion of a REAL Gunsmith.. Not a person that buys hodge podge parts from Brownells.. Good luck to you this Rant is OVER you NEED Kuhnhausens book to read to familiarize your self with what you are trying to MASK here which is POOR finish inside. NOT at all the spring issue.. That is if you CAN afford it... STILL waiting for YOUR pictures or DONT you have a CAMERA Either ??? Hammer It.
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Mike Irwin
Staff
And I'm still waiting for this vast list of supposed sagely gunsmiths, the requested citations from Kuhnhausen's shop manual, any evidence of a light spring causing a gun to explode, etc., etc., etc., ad nauseum.
As for the action job, this is EXACTLY what you said: "The S&W-J-frame, is also the ONLY revolver S&W will NOT do a action job on at the Factory.. Ask them?"
Your inference is clear -- that they won't do ANY type of work that commonly constitutes an action job.
The CSR's response very efficiently puts the lie to that. Smith & Wesson WILL do action work on the J frames.
Of course the type of action work (job) would be different -- that's only logical given the differing designs.
You wouldn't expect a mechanic to perform the exact same tune up procedure on a gasoline powered automobile that he would on a diesel powered automobile.
Why?
DIFFERENT DESIGN.
Doesn't take a rokket sintust to figure that out.
"and YES no matter what you have TRIED to pint out it is dangerous.."
Still waiting for any actual proof of this danger.
"I value the opinion of a REAL Gunsmith.."
You mean like Jerry Kuhnhausen, the man who wrote the most widely used reference manual on S&Ws? The one I see in "real gunsmith's" reference libraries when I visit them?
Oh wait, Kuhnhausen doesn't actually provide any sort of support for your position at all, so maybe he's not a real gunsmith, but just a fantasy gunsmith?
Tell me, what, in your odd world, constitutes a "real" gunsmith?
Anyway you cut it, I have no doubt that I've attended the funerals of more gunsmiths who have made a living at that trade (is it real, or is it Memorex?) than you've ever visited.
So, when are we all going to see proof of these light spring exploding guns?
As for the action job, this is EXACTLY what you said: "The S&W-J-frame, is also the ONLY revolver S&W will NOT do a action job on at the Factory.. Ask them?"
Your inference is clear -- that they won't do ANY type of work that commonly constitutes an action job.
The CSR's response very efficiently puts the lie to that. Smith & Wesson WILL do action work on the J frames.
Of course the type of action work (job) would be different -- that's only logical given the differing designs.
You wouldn't expect a mechanic to perform the exact same tune up procedure on a gasoline powered automobile that he would on a diesel powered automobile.
Why?
DIFFERENT DESIGN.
Doesn't take a rokket sintust to figure that out.
"and YES no matter what you have TRIED to pint out it is dangerous.."
Still waiting for any actual proof of this danger.
"I value the opinion of a REAL Gunsmith.."
You mean like Jerry Kuhnhausen, the man who wrote the most widely used reference manual on S&Ws? The one I see in "real gunsmith's" reference libraries when I visit them?
Oh wait, Kuhnhausen doesn't actually provide any sort of support for your position at all, so maybe he's not a real gunsmith, but just a fantasy gunsmith?
Tell me, what, in your odd world, constitutes a "real" gunsmith?
Anyway you cut it, I have no doubt that I've attended the funerals of more gunsmiths who have made a living at that trade (is it real, or is it Memorex?) than you've ever visited.
So, when are we all going to see proof of these light spring exploding guns?
Mike
/Quote/WILL do action work on the J frames/Quote/ LIE Visit there web site on custom shop work and SEE they will NOT work a -J-frame action.The closest you can come is to purchase a Lady-Smith which is suposed to have a smoother action due to a ladies hand not being as strong as a mans,as they explained in liteture in the past. They are exactely the same as a K-L-N-only differ because of the coil main spring and the parts are smaller but look identical.I have nothing to PROVE to you as you are NOT experienced which showed when you HAD to call S&W to ask about a action job on a -J-frame anybody seasoned all ready know's they simply will NOT do one. I also feel given enough time with your BIG experience at BUTCHERING actions one will come apart on you as there is alot more to perfecting and action than dropping in a wonder spring package.Another problem that can happen is if a lighter rebound spring is installed in a roughly finished frame this COULD prevent the positive return of the rebound spring body, and this would cause the cylinder to not line up with the forceing cone on fast double action shots.Tell me that would not BLOW apart a revolver. Jerry Kuhnhausen has FORGOTTEN more about revolver's that you could EVER try to learn in TWO lifetimes. You are a flamboyant Wanna-Bee that spends more time on a computer than you do enriching your mind with valuable reading material like he has made available to those of us that know what a good gun smith would like to share and are willing to part with $25.00 to get it as well. I have NO doubt you have seen his book while VISITING a competent gun smith as it is the best available, and anyone that pulls a sideplate should not be without it.I STILL have NOT seen any pictures from you as promised of ANY of your guns, but have seen this in the past and will have to more than likely WAIT while you borrow someones camera to take them. The real fact of the matter is you will NOT part with enough money to buy a quality book By Kuhnhausen isnt it ? He does mention to reduce the rebound spring by no more than two twists when tuning a -J-frame revolver but then again you would NOT know this as you do NOT have the book. Keep buying your packs of wonder springs and I am confident your shoddy way's will indeed HURT someone someday. You are NOT a gunsmith as I have seen from the evidence you provided to be incomplete and in context only placing a Band-Aid on the REAL trouble which is fit & Finish. Now BUZZ off this conversation is OVER as you have NOTHING to teach you only BABBLE & dance around the problems rather than solve them..Here is a link to the repair center. I would like you to SHOW me where they offer ANY action work on a -J-frame ? It is NOT offered period. Hammer It.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...catalogId=11101&content=18302§ionId=11522
/Quote/WILL do action work on the J frames/Quote/ LIE Visit there web site on custom shop work and SEE they will NOT work a -J-frame action.The closest you can come is to purchase a Lady-Smith which is suposed to have a smoother action due to a ladies hand not being as strong as a mans,as they explained in liteture in the past. They are exactely the same as a K-L-N-only differ because of the coil main spring and the parts are smaller but look identical.I have nothing to PROVE to you as you are NOT experienced which showed when you HAD to call S&W to ask about a action job on a -J-frame anybody seasoned all ready know's they simply will NOT do one. I also feel given enough time with your BIG experience at BUTCHERING actions one will come apart on you as there is alot more to perfecting and action than dropping in a wonder spring package.Another problem that can happen is if a lighter rebound spring is installed in a roughly finished frame this COULD prevent the positive return of the rebound spring body, and this would cause the cylinder to not line up with the forceing cone on fast double action shots.Tell me that would not BLOW apart a revolver. Jerry Kuhnhausen has FORGOTTEN more about revolver's that you could EVER try to learn in TWO lifetimes. You are a flamboyant Wanna-Bee that spends more time on a computer than you do enriching your mind with valuable reading material like he has made available to those of us that know what a good gun smith would like to share and are willing to part with $25.00 to get it as well. I have NO doubt you have seen his book while VISITING a competent gun smith as it is the best available, and anyone that pulls a sideplate should not be without it.I STILL have NOT seen any pictures from you as promised of ANY of your guns, but have seen this in the past and will have to more than likely WAIT while you borrow someones camera to take them. The real fact of the matter is you will NOT part with enough money to buy a quality book By Kuhnhausen isnt it ? He does mention to reduce the rebound spring by no more than two twists when tuning a -J-frame revolver but then again you would NOT know this as you do NOT have the book. Keep buying your packs of wonder springs and I am confident your shoddy way's will indeed HURT someone someday. You are NOT a gunsmith as I have seen from the evidence you provided to be incomplete and in context only placing a Band-Aid on the REAL trouble which is fit & Finish. Now BUZZ off this conversation is OVER as you have NOTHING to teach you only BABBLE & dance around the problems rather than solve them..Here is a link to the repair center. I would like you to SHOW me where they offer ANY action work on a -J-frame ? It is NOT offered period. Hammer It.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...catalogId=11101&content=18302§ionId=11522
Last edited:
Mike Irwin
Staff
Once again, I spoke DIRECTLY to a CRS at the company today.
There's no confusion over what he said.
And you know, I'm looking at this page here (the Precision Gunsmithing page):
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...alogId=10001&content=18302§ionId=11522#ep
And it says absolutely nothing about J frame revolvers being excluded from services offered.
In fact, this is the introductory text:
New and past Smith & Wesson handgun purchasers always have the opportunity to enhance the performance of a new model, or tune up an older model, through Smith & Wesson Performance Center Gunsmithing Services. The same master gunsmiths that are acclaimed for the quality and performance of Performance Center handguns apply their expertise to the upgrading, enhancement and refreshing of old and new revolvers and pistols. A variety of gunsmithing services and packages are available and, because it is through Smith & Wesson, your warranty remains fully intact.
To discuss Smith & Wesson Performance Center Services call 1-800-331-0852. Please have your serial number available when calling for information.
Please point to where on this page that it says that J frames are excluded from any of this?
Then there's the text on this page, as well:
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...catalogId=10001&content=19301§ionId=11522
Again, no specific mention of J frames being excluded.
The page does indicate that the "Combat Revolver Package" is only offered on the K, L, and N frame guns.
But, look at this...
Right under that is the "Master Revolver Action Job, which has no listed restrictions on the service regarding frame size. Funny that, don't you think?
"I have nothing to PROVE to you as you are NOT experienced which showed when you HAD to call S&W to ask about a action job on a -J-frame anybody seasoned all ready know's they simply will NOT do one."
You keep claiming that, and yet you've not given any factual proof to back that up. At this point, you have everything to prove.
You've made claims that you have repeatedly failed to substantiate. Your credibility is waning to near nothingness, and now you're inferring that the CSR at Smith & Wesson is the liar, right?
Curious.
Oh, and the fact that I called the company just to ascertain that you're wrong in your claims? You're right, I'm not 100% positive what S&W offers in the way of gunsmithing services.
Know why that is?
It's because I work on my own guns -- I don't send them off to the manufacturer.
So, want to rethink that comment about experience? If, though, you mean I don't have a lot of experience in boxing up my gun, experience in running it to the UPS hub, and experience in paying for it to be shipped back to the factory, and experience in waiting for them to do the work, well, you got me there.
And just when are you going to share your experience with us by providing page citations from Kuhnhausen's shop manual that back up your claims?
Third request, and still waiting.
But, I'll share a few things from Kuhnhausen's manual while I'm waiting for your citations...
Page 84, "Lighten Double Action Pull"
7. Mainspring pressure can be reduced by carefully trimming the tensioner screw (K, L, and N, obviously) or replacing the spring.
8. There are spring kits on the market that work reasonably well for this purpose, but do not seem as consistent as factory springs.
No dire predictions of revolvers exploding from too light main springs... Just the word "seem." Know what that means?
Wow, if I'm quoting from Kuhnhausen's book, do you know what that means? Come on, you can figure it out...
No?
It means that I OWN Kuhnhausens book. Wow. Imagine that.
Oh, and you want to see my pictures of a few of my guns?
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118442&highlight=pack
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114286&highlight=Model+24
Hum... My pictures don't seem to be appearing in those threads for some reason. It may be related to the recent system crash. I've brought this to staff's attention. I'm sure they'll reappear in a few days...
Oh, and learn to use a few paragraph breaks. You might as well try to get something right.
There's no confusion over what he said.
And you know, I'm looking at this page here (the Precision Gunsmithing page):
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...alogId=10001&content=18302§ionId=11522#ep
And it says absolutely nothing about J frame revolvers being excluded from services offered.
In fact, this is the introductory text:
New and past Smith & Wesson handgun purchasers always have the opportunity to enhance the performance of a new model, or tune up an older model, through Smith & Wesson Performance Center Gunsmithing Services. The same master gunsmiths that are acclaimed for the quality and performance of Performance Center handguns apply their expertise to the upgrading, enhancement and refreshing of old and new revolvers and pistols. A variety of gunsmithing services and packages are available and, because it is through Smith & Wesson, your warranty remains fully intact.
To discuss Smith & Wesson Performance Center Services call 1-800-331-0852. Please have your serial number available when calling for information.
Please point to where on this page that it says that J frames are excluded from any of this?
Then there's the text on this page, as well:
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...catalogId=10001&content=19301§ionId=11522
Again, no specific mention of J frames being excluded.
The page does indicate that the "Combat Revolver Package" is only offered on the K, L, and N frame guns.
But, look at this...
Right under that is the "Master Revolver Action Job, which has no listed restrictions on the service regarding frame size. Funny that, don't you think?
"I have nothing to PROVE to you as you are NOT experienced which showed when you HAD to call S&W to ask about a action job on a -J-frame anybody seasoned all ready know's they simply will NOT do one."
You keep claiming that, and yet you've not given any factual proof to back that up. At this point, you have everything to prove.
You've made claims that you have repeatedly failed to substantiate. Your credibility is waning to near nothingness, and now you're inferring that the CSR at Smith & Wesson is the liar, right?
Curious.
Oh, and the fact that I called the company just to ascertain that you're wrong in your claims? You're right, I'm not 100% positive what S&W offers in the way of gunsmithing services.
Know why that is?
It's because I work on my own guns -- I don't send them off to the manufacturer.
So, want to rethink that comment about experience? If, though, you mean I don't have a lot of experience in boxing up my gun, experience in running it to the UPS hub, and experience in paying for it to be shipped back to the factory, and experience in waiting for them to do the work, well, you got me there.
And just when are you going to share your experience with us by providing page citations from Kuhnhausen's shop manual that back up your claims?
Third request, and still waiting.
But, I'll share a few things from Kuhnhausen's manual while I'm waiting for your citations...
Page 84, "Lighten Double Action Pull"
7. Mainspring pressure can be reduced by carefully trimming the tensioner screw (K, L, and N, obviously) or replacing the spring.
8. There are spring kits on the market that work reasonably well for this purpose, but do not seem as consistent as factory springs.
No dire predictions of revolvers exploding from too light main springs... Just the word "seem." Know what that means?
Wow, if I'm quoting from Kuhnhausen's book, do you know what that means? Come on, you can figure it out...
No?
It means that I OWN Kuhnhausens book. Wow. Imagine that.
Oh, and you want to see my pictures of a few of my guns?
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118442&highlight=pack
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114286&highlight=Model+24
Hum... My pictures don't seem to be appearing in those threads for some reason. It may be related to the recent system crash. I've brought this to staff's attention. I'm sure they'll reappear in a few days...
Oh, and learn to use a few paragraph breaks. You might as well try to get something right.
i will keep it original as i have the box, the wax paper and cleaning tool that were all provided. it is not 100%, but i'd definately sat 90%+. i had it appraised and it is roughly worth$250.00. considering that it was probably purchased for less than $100, i guess it might appreciate more. thanks for the advise.
A GOOD choice
Hello Porkskin
That would be a good choice. I would be surrised in the tiem frame of 1955 if that revolver was much more than 75.00. It will appreciate in value and these are just NOW starting to do so. See Auctions they are on and the average is between 200.00-450.00 from what I have observed. They are a very accurate sweet shooting revolver that have little recoil. Best regards, Hammer It.
Hello Porkskin
That would be a good choice. I would be surrised in the tiem frame of 1955 if that revolver was much more than 75.00. It will appreciate in value and these are just NOW starting to do so. See Auctions they are on and the average is between 200.00-450.00 from what I have observed. They are a very accurate sweet shooting revolver that have little recoil. Best regards, Hammer It.
In double action shooting, I do not believe you can pull the trigger a second time if the rebound slide hasn't fully reset. I had a problem with the rebound slide on my M36 not resetting properly due to decades of gunk and not once could I pull the trigger enough to actuate the hammer.
I have fired Mike's guns many times before, including ones he's "butchered". I've also had the opportunity to inspect the work he's performed (he opened one of his revolvers at my home the other day to show me a feature I was unfamiliar with). No problems with his work. If I didn't do such work myself, I'd have him do any S&W work I needed.
Which brings me to my next point...
I've also worked on my J-frame revolver in the past. I've even changed both springs. Since that time, I've put several hundred rounds through the gun. It hasn't exploded and is 100% reliable.
But I guess I don't know what I'm doing either.
Chris
Mike Irwin
Staff
Just had a very pleasant conversation with Jeff, an S&W CSR in their gunsmithing dept.
Smith & Wesson offers a $65 "J frame Action Job" as he called it.
"We can do an action job and make feel pretty good. It won't be quite as good as a K frame. The geometry is different."
Per Jeff, the action and internals are stoned and polished to a mirror sheen, springs are brought back to factory specs if not within factory specs (per my conversation with the man yesterday), but no trigger stop is installed.
Why no trigger stop? Because the J frame isn't a target gun. Duh.
So, we're right back to where we've been the entire time.
Smith & Wesson DOES action jobs on J frame revolvers.
Smith & Wesson offers a $65 "J frame Action Job" as he called it.
"We can do an action job and make feel pretty good. It won't be quite as good as a K frame. The geometry is different."
Per Jeff, the action and internals are stoned and polished to a mirror sheen, springs are brought back to factory specs if not within factory specs (per my conversation with the man yesterday), but no trigger stop is installed.
Why no trigger stop? Because the J frame isn't a target gun. Duh.
So, we're right back to where we've been the entire time.
Smith & Wesson DOES action jobs on J frame revolvers.