S&W 1000

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Opinated

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Just acquired a S&W 1000 12 gauge shotgun. Really great condition - visually.
The price was rather low, based on the GunBroker listings I consulted. Have not yet loaded nor fired it.
It has two barrels. One is marked 2 3/4" skeet, the other is 3" full. Does this sound correct? Was just pondering the possible confusion after switching barrels. Check and double check.
 
Does this sound correct?
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Yep.
Before the days of screw-in chokes, the alternative to an adjustable choke (a big ugly on the muzzle) was to have a separate barrel for each choke you desired. Is the skeet barrel shorter than the full one?
 
Thanks for the response. My concern is about the shell lengths. Seems confusing to have a shotgun that has different maximum shell lengths depending on the barrel installed. Would seem to be easy to grab some 3" and try to use them with the 2 3/4" barrel.
I have a couple of old 12 gauge side-by-side doubles chambered for 2 3/4" and a 3" shell drops right in. Scares me to think what could happen. So I try to be completely attentive in these matters.
 
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A highly-desirable feature of the Model 1000 is its pressure-compensator valve assembly, designed to stabilize variations in gas port pressures and thereby adapt the gun to a wide range of loads.

So, the standard S&W 1000 fires standard and magnum shells without adjustment - I don't remember a Magnum (only) version, but evidently there was (you have an original 3" chambered bbl).

If it's a 2-3/4" gun though, it will most likely not feed 3" shells; so I would WAG that someone bought the only extra bbl they could find that fits the action, and only fired 2-3/4" shells in the 3" chamber, buying the bbl more for the tighter choke.


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Interesting comment-- we will find out eventually.
On another forum found a number of posts about the 1000, some dating from 2008, and the peculiar ills that may befall it. Some posts center on problems with non-metallic parts described as "rubber ring".
Mine has not yet been disassembled and who knows what may be encountered at that point.
In many applications for "rubber rings", Viton is a great choice for oil and solvent resistance combined with heat resistance. If the durometer ( hardness) is crucial, most Viton is often rather high durometer. Viton rings are harder to find and more expensive. A hydraulics shop might have them.
The o-rings sold at the hardware store probably are EPDM-- great for plumbing as the heat and water resistance is superb. EPDM also is highly resistant to ultraviolet and is used for single-ply roofing. But EPDM has extremely poor resistance to petroleum oils and solvents. So not for use on firearms. If in doubt, soak an o-ring in light oil for a few days before using one of that type for your firearm.
 
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Some shotguns back in the day were made as separate models for 2 3/4 only and 2 3/4 and 3" models. Like older 870s. So u gotta watchout for that. A 2 3/4 only action will take a 3" barrel usually but the action wont be able to actually feed the longer shells. So i would stick to only 2 3/4 shells untill you know for sure what the actual receiver is for. And 2 3/4 only in the skeet barrel obviously.
 
Would seem to be easy to grab some 3" and try to use them with the 2 3/4" barrel.
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A Skeet shooter wouldn't have 3-inch shells in his shell bag. The Skeet barrel is 2 3/4-inch because target shooters feel they get better performance from the shorter chamber. It's one of the reasons the R-1100 (in 2 3/4) continued sales after the R-11-87 (with 3-inch chambers) was introduced. While field and casual target shooters lauded the new gun, competitive shooters weren't as enthusiastic.
 
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