Rust problem
- Thread starter SPUSCG
- Start date
Rust is primarily caused by condensation / storing a gun in an environment where its humid / as it cools where you have the gun stored - the moisture will collect on the coldest thing around ( cast iron table tops on tools, gun barrels, etc ).
I'm assuming you're in a maritime community / so the first thing you have to do is clean the barrel - and a couple of things I've tried .... a coat of paste wax will work pretty well / a light coat of oil - like #2 Rig Oil / there are some other products that I use on things like my table saw top - BoeShield T-9 ( I have not tried it on my guns ).
You might try and get a little heat in the area where you store your guns / like a small wattage light bulb inside your safe. Make sure there is good air circulation around the guns in your safe ( don't store guns in a soft sided case, that traps moisture ). If you shoot the guns, on a rainy day - take them apart - clean them, let them dry out ( take stocks off, etc ) - clean, lube them, spray them with Rig #2 or wax them - and it should stop.
I'm assuming you're in a maritime community / so the first thing you have to do is clean the barrel - and a couple of things I've tried .... a coat of paste wax will work pretty well / a light coat of oil - like #2 Rig Oil / there are some other products that I use on things like my table saw top - BoeShield T-9 ( I have not tried it on my guns ).
You might try and get a little heat in the area where you store your guns / like a small wattage light bulb inside your safe. Make sure there is good air circulation around the guns in your safe ( don't store guns in a soft sided case, that traps moisture ). If you shoot the guns, on a rainy day - take them apart - clean them, let them dry out ( take stocks off, etc ) - clean, lube them, spray them with Rig #2 or wax them - and it should stop.
Silica packets are good ... but when they saturate, they become like a wet sponge - and then they give off moisture ( and can make it worse ) until they equalize.
If you use Silica packets - you need to bake them periodically ( in an oven , or laying on top of a barbecue cover while you're cooking a rack of meat or something ) not a microwave... - and dry them out.
If you use Silica packets - you need to bake them periodically ( in an oven , or laying on top of a barbecue cover while you're cooking a rack of meat or something ) not a microwave... - and dry them out.
oneounceload
Moderator
Living here in lovely, but humid, Florida - my small safe has three BIG dessicant packages AND a Golden Rod dehumidifier.....SO far, all is well - I have to "dry out" the dessicant about every 6 weeks or so....two of the three are the plain no frills boxes with the colored dots.....the other one is the type you can plug in to dry out. There are a variety of brand names, but they're all made by the same company - they work, BUT, it takes me a lot longer to get them dried out than they say.....more like 5-6 hours, not two
Use those things and put a light oil on them, and your guns should be OK
Use those things and put a light oil on them, and your guns should be OK
SPUSCG:
I'm going to guess that you are primarily having this problem with the barrels off the 870 Express. This is understandable as the finish is not as good as the WingMasters. Again, addressing the 870 Express, the last one I owned showed this problem right out of the box. My safe has a Hot Rod inside and I never did stop chasing this problem. Finally had to trade it off. You certainly can cover it up but to some degree, it will still there. In some situations, I have used the Silica packs as well and it's true what BigJimP has stated and they need to be regenerated every so often. Well perhaps not quite like a sponge but will lose their effectiveness. Take care not to heat them up too fast as the little grains will fragment and not be as effective. It's like rock salt turning into table salt. in this case, low and slow is the ticket.
Be Safe !!!
I'm going to guess that you are primarily having this problem with the barrels off the 870 Express. This is understandable as the finish is not as good as the WingMasters. Again, addressing the 870 Express, the last one I owned showed this problem right out of the box. My safe has a Hot Rod inside and I never did stop chasing this problem. Finally had to trade it off. You certainly can cover it up but to some degree, it will still there. In some situations, I have used the Silica packs as well and it's true what BigJimP has stated and they need to be regenerated every so often. Well perhaps not quite like a sponge but will lose their effectiveness. Take care not to heat them up too fast as the little grains will fragment and not be as effective. It's like rock salt turning into table salt. in this case, low and slow is the ticket.
Be Safe !!!
Imagine that!! Gees I like making a good call especially when this is my first one this month.
As far as locating the packs or canisters, why don't you Google it. I know that Midway has them and would not be surprised if MidSouth has them as well. This stull is very easy to find you won't have to buy a bunch of shoes to get what you need.
Be Safe !!!
On an express I spray a heavy coat of rem. oil or similar on it and let it sit on the workbench for a couple of days. usually i put another heavy coat on and let it sit for another couple of days. Then wipe off excess. the finish on an express will really soak up a lot of oil and if you do this every once in a while it will really help stave off the rust. do remember to wipe it down with an oily rag after each use just as you would do any other gun.
longranger
New member
The problem with most "gun oils" is that they are highly refined oils and migrate to places unknown. I have for 35 years when I lived near the coast in CA wiped my guns down with plain old motor oil.Motor oil is designed to cling and prevent rust.What ever oil you use in your vehicles is good for wiping metal down.No rust ever even when guns are stored in travel cases.
Scattergun Bob
New member
SPUSCG
I think we discussed this when you first posted about your express. Remington seems spotty on the express finish. 0000 steel wool or synthetic wool and Flitz GENTLY applied will help remove rust blossoms and the same wool and Sheath will help with overall rust removal. Rust proof your express OFFTEN, and inspect frequently.
The good news is that we have several NEW expresses in the shop and the finish seems much more uniform and thicker, ABOUT TIME.
Good Luck & Be Safe
I think we discussed this when you first posted about your express. Remington seems spotty on the express finish. 0000 steel wool or synthetic wool and Flitz GENTLY applied will help remove rust blossoms and the same wool and Sheath will help with overall rust removal. Rust proof your express OFFTEN, and inspect frequently.
The good news is that we have several NEW expresses in the shop and the finish seems much more uniform and thicker, ABOUT TIME
.Good Luck & Be Safe
RamSlammer
New member
The exterior finishes on the Express models are notoriously lousy at repelling rust. doesn't affect performance at all. We keep a scotchbrite (non scratch - pink) pad saturated with CLP and go over these when they dry from a wet hunt in duck season. Takes the rust off and leaves a protective coating until the next time someone dunks a gun or gets rained on.
Express' aren't showpieces just keep 'em oiled down on the outside and they'll outlive you.
Express' aren't showpieces just keep 'em oiled down on the outside and they'll outlive you.
I do know rust - but that's just in my shoulder joints these days ... never mind.... ( but a little rain never hurt anything ..).
My best to you - and your station or shipmates in the Coast Guard.... Semper Paratus or "Always Ready" .... to some of you guys. He understands what I mean.
My best to you - and your station or shipmates in the Coast Guard.... Semper Paratus or "Always Ready" .... to some of you guys. He understands what I mean.