rust patch on blue SWm10 barrel

T

Thirties

New member
Any suggestions on best way to treat this little rust patch on the barrel of my SWm10-5 circa 1970 (photo below)?

I don't want to start working on it until I know the most prudent method. My guess is 3M green scrubby pad with oil and gentle rubbing. any better ideas?

Also, when I've got the rust off, what Do I do, just keep a very light film of oil on it?

This is not an antique gun. I bought it recently to shoot for plinking and targets. I will not be puting it away in a safe. I just don't want to have the rust eat it up further.

Your advice is appreciated.
 
Do not use the 3M green scrubby!

Get yourself some 0000 (4-aught) steel wool. Oil the wool, and rub the spot. Anything coarser the 0000 steel wool will remove the finish, and scratch the steel.
 
Thanks for the warning and advice. I'll use the 4-ought steel wool with oil. I assume I rub gently?

By the way, looking at the photo, do you think that rust is bad, or not so bad? It's the only rust on the gun.
 
A lot of the people that restore antiques use the very finest steel wool dipped in turpentine. Yup, turpentine. It will remove rust but not attack the blue. You can then touch up the previously rusted area with cold blue, but I find this often makes a bad situation worst. After you’re done you can oil the gun to protect it, Or give it one or two coats of automobile wax (not polish) which is better then oil and much nicer to handle and use.
 
Automotive wax is simonize, for example, a hard caked paste? would the waz burn off from the heat of shooting the gun?
 
Yes, a good quality paste wax, with a "caranuba" (spelling may be off) content. No, it won't burn off any more then it would on a car hood in the hot July sun. The advantage is that it offers excellent protection but is dry too the touch. Won't stain holsters, clothing, etc. and won't hurt wood or plastics.

To experiment, take a piece of junk steel, clean it and wax it and then leave it out in the weather. A similar piece that is oiled will start rusting before the waxed piece does. Works well on polished steel and nickel plate, less so on "matt" finishes, Parkerizing, etc.
 
I'd use CLP and a nylon toothbrush. Put a drop or two of the CLP on the rust and let it soak for 20 minutes or so. Then run the toothbrush over the rust in an orbital pattern over the rust. I don't use steel wool because it can harm the finish even when trying to be careful.
 
Get yourself some 0000 (4-aught) steel wool. Oil the wool, and rub the spot. Anything coarser the 0000 steel wool will remove the finish, and scratch the steel.
Click to expand...

The only thing I can add here is to spray the spot with WD-40 first and let set for an hour, then follow the above course of action. I've found this to be very effective on older Mil-Surp guns.
 
"I'd use CLP and a nylon toothbrush. Put a drop or two of the CLP on the rust and let it soak for 20 minutes or so. Then run the toothbrush over the rust in an orbital pattern over the rust. I don't use steel wool because it can harm the finish even when trying to be careful."

Blades, I tried your solution and it doesn't change a thing -- rustwize.

So I'll get some 4-0 steel wool and get to work -- gently -- as the others have suggested.

It's indeed sad to see the waning activity on TFL . . . it's almost like a ghost town here.

Thank you all very mush for your 11th hour help!

By the way, I shot the gun this afternoon in some bitter cold weather. I am astonished how accurate this ol' revolver is in my hands at 10 paces. I had to stop when my off hand index finger went numb with the COLD.

Is there something particularly accurate about a 4" .38 special SWm10-5 compared with, say, any autoloader in the 9x17, 9x18, 9x19 range? Is it me getting better (am not a frequent shooter), or does the design of a DA revolver yield more accuracy (I was shooting SA)?
 
I recommend fine bronze wool (from Brownell's) kept wet with CLP.

BTW, some years ago I lent my 6-inch blue Model 10 to a relative, who returned it with patches of rust on the barrel and frame. My solution was to ship it to S&W to be refinished. It came back looking nearly as good as new. :)
 
I always spray the rusted area with WD-40 and then remove the rust with some 000 steel wool. Depending on how deep the rust goes, you may need to touch it up with a little cold blue.
 
I always start with the nylon brush because it is the least abrasive. It's better to start there and work up to the 0000 wool in my book. Good luck with that rust.
 
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