Rust on parkerizing.

L

lc609

Inactive
Had an issue 870 for about 2 years now. When I got it the reciever looked kinda leopard patterned with rust settling into the parkerizing. We use swam coolers here, and if you look closely you can see the same pattern on the magazine.

I am going to start using a personal Mossberg 500, and I want to turn the Remington in in better shape than I got it.

I have tried steel wool with RB 17, Tetra gun, Brownells bore cleaner paste, I can't get this stuff off. A steel brush scratches too deep, gouging the parkerizing. I put some CLP on the rust and let it sit in the sun for about 3 hours, no change.

help

pat
 
Rust is an iron oxide, but often people forget it's a hydrated iron oxide...remove the source of hydration, and voila, rust stops...a hydrophobic chaser will get rid of the hydrate - WD 40 is perfect. After the H20 has been chased from the oxide matrix, apply a good sealant, i.e. oil or grease (CLP has won me over in the last couple of weeks of inquiries...)

So the leopard spots may not disappear, but you should be able to keep them from advancing...my Ithaca has a few, but they've been quite stable for the last few years...
 
myths

WD-40 is a solvent.

get a lubricant with corrosion protection instead. i like tw-25b.

CLP is another short term solution that does not provide lasting protection

a gun is a terrible thing to waste.
 
Try a 50-50 blend of CLP and Kroil. The Kroil penetrates like nothing I've ever seen. Rumor has it it will penetrate the pores of the metal so it should have no problem getting between the good metal and the rusted part.
 
WD40 is a silicone in a petroleum based carrier. It is hydrophobic as all silicones, and effectively displaces h20. It also tends to evaporate rather wuickly, so it should be used only to displace moisture, not to protect from moisture. Once the moisture has been displaced with WD40, a persistent hydrophobe should be used - a grease or an oil with stable film properties.

Molybdenum disulfide products, like graphite based products tend to become acidic when in contact with water and should be avoided...
 
When I clean rust from parked weapons (cruiser trunks cause it like nobody's business) I spray it down with Eezox, let it sit for a minute or two to soak, then wipe it briskly with a cloth. Works like a charm. Might take one or two additional apps if the rust is really bad/stubborn, but it won't kill your finish. To heck with all the big words, I go with what WORKS!!!
 
It is chemically impossible to combine a solvent (WD-40) with a lubricant in the same product.

If you have rust, i'll play taps for you. You can't recreate damaged metal. But, you can provide a short-term solution.
Don't confuse that with a long term care.

You need a quality non-toxic cleaner/degreased, followed with a quality long lasting lube, like TW-25B.
 
I worked my way through college as an autobody repairman in the NE US of A. I can tell you that once rust starts on surface, there is nothing that you can do to stop it. You can slow it down, but if left on the steel, it will keep creeping. No oil or grease will stop all the oxidation from reaching the effected areas. The best thing to do is remove the rust, clean the pits fully, then reseal the surface.

IMHO, the best course of action would be to take the firearm to a place that does refinishing. Have them bead blast the heck out of it, paying special attention to anyarea with pitting. I would also avoid parkerizing or standard bluing. Go with something like Gun Lote, from Mac's Shootin' Iron Restoration. http://www.shootiniron.com. (under $200 with shipping in both directions). He does it all, and will even "massage" any minor pits. Mac is a really good guy and will be more than willing to talk to you about it. The Gun Kote is thicker than most gun finishes and does cover up minor blemishes.

If you are concerned with the "collector" value of the 870, do nothing but keep it greased up. Like furniture, the money is in the finish. You could not believe prices onsome of the rusty messes that I have seen go atantique and collectors auctions.

Good luck.

PS. I have no interest in Mac's Shootin' Iron Restorations except as a happy customer.
 
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