Rust on new CZ?

My girlfriend giver of great gifts brought me a CZ 452 17hmr for my birthday.
According to the paper work it was made in 2008 and since then has some black rust like marks on the bolt and inside the action.

I tried using normal oil and a nylon brush to remove them which kinda worked but didn't get it all.
What can I use to remove it?

I haven't shot it yet because I don't have any rings that fit, I had a look at my LGSs and they were far too expensive so I'll get some off optics planet I think.
I'm sure its going to shoot great though!
 
Mine had those little spots on the bolt too. I have no idea why. It shoots great though. Maybe a cold blue remover would do something to remove those stains.
 
rust removal

I have a cz 452. Thankfully I haven't dealt with rust on it that I can remember but sometimes my rifles and occasionally a handgun will have a small amount of surface rust - especially before I found a thicker oil I liked.

Your options depend on if the rust is on white steel (not blued)/stainless or blued steel. The basic strategy is pretty simple: mechanically knock off the rust with minimal damage to the steel and protect with oil afterwards. With blued guns, the bluing only goes so deep and often the finish is glossy so you do not want to leave scratch marks.

Some start with steel wool but I don't like to for 2 reasons: steel can scratch steel, and as it breaks off it can rust in the future if it's not cleaned thoroughly.

I use a brass brush, even the round ones from a cleaning brush and have at it. I've also used a penny if I need to apply more pressure. Then wipe it off with a clean rag and the yellowed color should come off. If not, use a gun cleaning solvent to help remove the yellow. If this is just surface rust chances are any bluing underneath is okay. Then coat with a "good" oil. What's a "good" oil? There's lots, but the generalization I can make is that for rust protection (rather than lubrication) you want something thicker that will stay put. This can be a heavier oil or a grease. Even so, people typically wipe off all the excess until a thin film remains or else it will attract dust and potentially trap moisture with the dust. After all the products I've tried, currently I use Eezox. (google Eezox and corrosion test). However I'm considering switching over to Ballistol as I never minded the smell and I never wear gloves when cleaning so perhaps the non-toxicity might do me some good.

If it's stainless or white steel, there's a nice thing I've found called the Birchwood Casey Rust Removal cloth. It removes rust / fouling chemically and mechanically I believe. Boy is it fast. I think it has aluminum oxide particles as an abrasive to polish the surface at the same time. So if the surface you're looking at is a matte stainless finish, it may become shiny or slicker with repeated use but if that doesn't bother you, this thing works FAST. On a CZ452 bolt I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
 
I haven't shot it yet because I don't have any rings that fit, I had a look at my LGSs and they were far too expensive so I'll get some off optics planet I think.

I have a CZ452 also and I did buy the CZ rings. I had to get pretty tall rings to mount a Weaver K4 to get the objective bell off the rear sight.

I found an EGW tactical scope mount picatinny rail 0 MOA from Optics Planet and took the old scope off and put on a Nikon Monarch 4-14 X50 that I took off an
M1A .

Works like a champ and now I can take any scope that mounts on a picatinny base and switch scopes out.

I am going to change the CZ rings out on my Weaver K4 and put QD Warne rings on the K4. It will make it easy to switch scopes out.

That is the way I would go.

The CZ dovetail leaves a lot to be desired and a robust picatinny base only has to be mounted once.

The only drawback is you won't be able to use the iron sights with the rail installed.
 
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