rust after blueing

O

old fart

New member
i just redone a nef r92, and the gun turned out good but the cylinder has small reddish brown area's here and there and in the notches. also reddish brown places in the cylder holes, i oiled as soon as finished so i don't know what it is. it doesn't look like rust as its in small tiny streaks here and there. is this rust or what?, i can't post pics as my camera is tore up right now. i used birchwood casey perma blue. thanks
 
If Birchwood Casey needs to be neutralized, then you might want to bathe it in a solution of water and baking soda to arrest the bluing process. Guns that are hot dipped must be neutralized, otherwise they will continue to rust. So, check the instructions on the bottle.
 
i kept rinsing with water and bluing, and its better but i still have a problem. the cylinder notches have brown color to it and the chambers do too. the rest of the cylinder looks fine, don't have any idea what i did wrong.
 
i am thinking of engine block paint, will i have to remove the bluing to put it on or can i just clean the gun good and spray it on? thanks
 
The thing you did wrong was to cold blue the cylinder. Cold blue goes on splotchy, doesn't protect from rust, and wears right off.
 
Cold rust blue is generally used for touch up to hide scratches and not to refinish an entire gun.

if the gun is still rusting, put it in a solution of distilled water with baking soda. The baking soda will neutralize any rusting process. Then put the cylinder into an oven to dry it.
 
UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i went and got some dupli-color engine enamel with ceramic, i painted the whole gun. i have been trying to remove all the oil on it these last few days, seems it just keeps creeping out. it may not turn out as well as i hoped with the oil coming through the pins and around the hammer. hopefully most of it will stay on and i'll have a finish on my gun. thanks
 
Removing the oil won't stop the rusting process. Neutralizing the bluing solution does. It's not that you wasted your time though. Removing the oil will help you when you have to clean the gun and neutralize the salts.
 
the gun barrel and frame did fine with the dupli-color paint but the cylinder the paint came off after fireing. i cleaned it real good and blued the cylinder again. then again and cleaned and blued again. i even heated the metal before i blued, after i finished i left a good amount of oil all over the cylinder. i did this yesterday and i went into the room just a few minutes ago and where i blued the cylinder its got a brownish color on it. it almost looks like dull brass color, there is some blue there but mostley a ole brown color. so i don't have much more money to put in this, so will this hurt anything if i keep it oiled? its going to be a woods gun but i don't want the rust to hurt the gun any. should i try something else?, as i'm out of blueing. or will it be ok and not get worse if i keep it oiled? thanks
 
The clyinder sounds like a different alloy and cold blue is a plating process.
Cold blue chemically plate (false plate) copper sulfate on the metal and the acid in the solution blackens the plating.

Hot blue would not turn the clyinder black very well and neither will come blue.
BTW bluing is a rust, nothing more.

As for the oil migration, you are suppose to completely disassemble for any finish and before clean the metal.
 
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