Ruger Super Redhawk spitting particles on the cheek.

Recoil spring

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I bought a NIB Ruger Super Redhawk in .454 Casull back in 2009, like the gun, mostly shoot hand loaded lead 200 gr. bullets in .45 LC through it. I also have some .454 Casull ammo that I have put down range as well, but that load kicks too much.

When I got the gun it must have been a Monday/Friday made piece as it had some scratches and flashing left over from when it was made, I polished and filed everything just right to save time over sending it back to the factory. I am an ex-machinist. This gun is very accurate, mostly use Unique and Universal powder.

It has a tendency to spit particles to the left of the cylinder and forcing cone to my left cheek. Read that Ruger made the barrel angle for full metal jacket ammo as this is really a serious big game hunting gun, and is intended for the heavy FMJ stuff. Smith and Wesson has a different angle to allow use of more types of bullets, all this is from what I have read online. My 2 S/W revolvers never did that to me in regards to spitting.

Took the Ruger to the range today and it really was hitting my left cheek a lot. Annoying, thought of selling the gun. The timing seems fine on the revolver and my Ruger GP-100 was hitting me some too, but not nearly as much. Anyone have this sort of thing happened to their Ruger Super Red hawk? And if so, what caused it and wondering if my hand loads are doing this as it does the same thing whether lead or FMJ bullets.

Thanks.
 
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You have already figured out forcing cone angle versus ogive,and the shorter cylindrical diameter of lighter bullets may play a part.
If there is a path for gas to bypass the bullet,it will melt some lead.

I suggest you guage your cylinder throats.There are several 45 cal bullet diameters.If your 200 gr bullets are for 45ACP,for example,they may be .451.Your throats might be .454

IMO,you will want your bullets the largest dia that won't give you an interference fit in your cylinder. Just a slipfit with no extra clearance.

Next would be a range rod check. That's a guage that checks to see if the cylinder throats are reasonably concentric with the bore.
I would NOT just drop guage pins in there.If one enters the cyl and gets stuck,you have a problem to solve.

If you aren't using gas checks,it might be a good idea.You might be melting bullet bases.

One more thing I read about the Cassull. You must put a cartridge or some brass in every chamber to prevent blowback.Supposedly on a single action you blow the loading gate oen if you don't.
Beast!
PS,I don't own a 454.I had custody of an early Freedom Arms for a while.
 
Two thoughts, one is an excessive cylinder/barrel gap, the other could be a cylinder/barrel alignment issue. If any of the chambers do not line up centered with the barrel bore it can result in material coming back at you.
I had a Ruger Blackhawk with a major alignment problem. After 9 rounds it locked up completely after shaving a piece of copper jacketing from the bullet and lodging it in the barrel/cylinder gap. The 8 rounds prior were showering me with small particles.

Jim
 
Good advice

I appreciate the info from you guys, will start doing some checking with my feeler gauges. What is the recommended specs on cylinder to forcing cone dept?

Had forgotten about my Ruger GP-100 when I first bought it but the gap from the cylinder front to the forcing cone was so tight that it would bind up with as little as 30 rounds of regular .38 specials run through it. If it was clean and well oiled it was fine, had to clean it often while shooting it at the range, another accurate Ruger revolver that I have owned. I finally got fed up and draw filed the forcing cone with a small fine file, went very slowly and it did smooth out. Have not had to stop shooting it for cleaning for the last 12 years (bought in 2002).

All my Ruger revolvers have had trigger jobs (Wolf springs) so do not want to send any of them back to the factory for work as they will undo all my efforts and put in lawyer springs.

Somewhat recently Ruger has seriously jacked up the prices of their revolvers, still reasonable for the quality (built like a tank, last a lifetime). But this Super Redhawk is very expensive now, was in 2009 too. You would think they could get it right on such an expensive gun?!
 
I bought a 1972 Ruger Super BlackHawk used.

It spit the first range trip.

I called Ruger, shipped it back, and they told me that they couldn't fix it, so I got to pick a brand new Super Blackhawk without paying a cent.

Went with 5.5" stainless and am happy.


Why not call Ruger?
 
I'd second that opinion to send it back to Ruger. I have a 7 1/2" Ruger SRH in .454 Casull and have never had the problem you described, with factory or handloads. It sounds like something is askew.
 
it does the same thing whether lead or FMJ bullets

If it's lead or gilding metal from FMJs hitting your cheek, it'll probably draw blood. If it's not drawing blood, odds are it's unburnt powder. Claiming your GP-100 is spitting too, makes me think it is just unburnt powder. What powder are you using?
 
Call Ruger, tell them your problem. If there is an alignment issue between cylinder and barrel, I am sure they will fix it.
 
If you want to verify what is flying out, wrap some sticky shelf paper onto a sleeve. You can use the edge of a cardboard box to make the frame..

Fire your gun through it at least a dozen times, so you can see what alll cylinders do.

Of course, it will be nice if you can fire twelve rounds through it.
 
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