Ruger SRH Cylinder removal???

P

phungus

New member
Hey, I know how to take my SRH (.44 mag) apart as far as the manual states, but I would like to seperate the cylinder from the arm and clean out the extractor and hole in the cylinder (it's filthy in there).

Problem is, I can't figure out how to do it. :)

Anyone have any suggestions? Is this something I can do every 6 months without having to take it to a shop?

Jeff
 
What is the SRH

Not sure about the SRH designation, but on a double action, roll the gun over on the left side. The forward most screw is the one that retains the cylinder in the gun. Remove it and open the cylinder latch and slide it forward out of the revolver. This is as far as needed to clean most any of the carbon. Push the extractor forward and spray gun scrubber or the like into the recess around the extractor rod. Also clean the hole the cylinder slides out of. After your done, slide the cylinder back in and close it. Then replace the screw.
 
my ignorance

I had to go back and look at the schematic. Don't know why I drew such a blank. Look at the trigger guard. There should be a pin there that releases the gaurd. I am not sure, but I think you have to remove the trigger guard to get the cylinder to slide out. In the guard there is a cylinder latch that I think has to come off the gun to get it out. I would hesitate for you to try this unless you feel comfortable about working on revolvers.. I would spray the cleaner like I described earlier. Push the extractor out and spray back toward the front. This should remove most of the crud.
 
re-super redhawk

Dear Shooter:
I've had two super redhawks; only one did need to be disassembled that far. If I were you I'd do just exactly what the other smith told you and NOT disassemble that cylinder - I did and had to make a special tool to get it back.
I'd, as he says, get some gun-scrubber and flush that out that way, and if you have air, blow it out and use some good gun oil.
I do like the SRH but I don't really care for that action; the Redhawks have a much smoother DA pull. I do like the double lock-up - we've needed that for years! :)
 
to remove the cyl from the crane is simple. there is a hole in the top of the crane that contains a plunger, when you push that down you can push out the pin that you see on the outside on the crane. the front locking tab and push rod can then be removed. lift out the star extractor a little from the cyl, it cannot be removed at this point but it is used to hold the cyl on the crane with the use of two ball bearings. the cyl should be able to move off of the crane now. I have not dissassembled beyond this point, but I have found that cleaning this area has smoothed things out greatly as residue from firing appears to have worked its way in.
 
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