Howdy, I just purchased a new Ruger SR-556E. The first time I took it to the range and ran some ammo through it (30 rounds), it double fired (two rounds with one pull of triger) twice. The first time it happened, I turned the gas regulator from the "2" possition to the "1" possition. Ran another few (60) rounds through it and it happened again. I have since turned the regulator back to "2" and have shot 200 more rounds w/o incedent, but I am a bit spooked. Has anyone else had this happen with their Ruger?
Ruger SR-556E doubleing?
- Thread starter Wyoredman
- Start date
I'm not sure how your trigger hooks up but on M-1 or M-14/M-1A if you gently squeeze the trigger like you would on a pistol you will get a double. What happens is recoil sets the trigger off with you finger. Sorta like a bumnp fire. I've had 2 rounds and a clip fly out of my M-1 a couple of times shooting High Power. Bam, Bam, Ping!
This doubling is called "milking the trigger". I would try shooting it like a rifle and get a little heavier on the trigger. IMHO.
This doubling is called "milking the trigger". I would try shooting it like a rifle and get a little heavier on the trigger. IMHO.
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Thank you, sir. I hope it is something as simple as operator error! The trigger is stiffer than my DPMS varminter. I have never had it happen with that AR, although I have never fired the DPMS in rapid succession, either! I will b sure to use a good stiff trigger pull tonight.
Bartholomew Roberts
Moderator
If the Ruger SR-556 has the same trigger group as a typical AR15, then it is also possible that the nose of the trigger or the corresponding notch on the hammer is faulty. In that situation, the rifle will fire when you pull the trigger and the disconnector will catch the hammer and stop it from going forward. When the trigger is released, the disconnector lets the hammer go and normally the nose of the trigger will catch the hammer; but if it does not, the hammer flies forward and the gun fires.
A quick way to check if this is the case with a normal AR15 is a function check. The first thing you need to do is function check your lower receiver. After unloading and making the rifle safe, remove your upper receiver from your lower receiver. With the rifle on "Fire" and the hammer uncocked, pull the trigger to the rear and hold it there. With your other hand, cock the hammer back until it catches on the disconnector (if it doesn't catch at this stage, then your disconnector or disconnector notch in the hammer is worn and needs replacing - a problem here can indicate slam firing and is even more unsafe). With the hammer cocked, put your hand where you can block the hammer from striking the magwell of the lower and release the trigger slowly. The hammer should stay cocked but should move forward slightly as the nose of the trigger catches the trigger notch of the hammer. If the hammer releases, then either your trigger or hammer needs replacing.
Typically this happens when someone tries to do a "DIY" trigger job and polishes through the very thin case hardening on the nose of the AR trigger; but it can also happen with wear or slightly out-of-spec parts. I'm not familiar with how similar the SR556E lower is to a normal AR15 lower; but it might be worth taking a look if you don't want to just send it back to Ruger.
And of course, it could just be operator error too.
A quick way to check if this is the case with a normal AR15 is a function check. The first thing you need to do is function check your lower receiver. After unloading and making the rifle safe, remove your upper receiver from your lower receiver. With the rifle on "Fire" and the hammer uncocked, pull the trigger to the rear and hold it there. With your other hand, cock the hammer back until it catches on the disconnector (if it doesn't catch at this stage, then your disconnector or disconnector notch in the hammer is worn and needs replacing - a problem here can indicate slam firing and is even more unsafe). With the hammer cocked, put your hand where you can block the hammer from striking the magwell of the lower and release the trigger slowly. The hammer should stay cocked but should move forward slightly as the nose of the trigger catches the trigger notch of the hammer. If the hammer releases, then either your trigger or hammer needs replacing.
Typically this happens when someone tries to do a "DIY" trigger job and polishes through the very thin case hardening on the nose of the AR trigger; but it can also happen with wear or slightly out-of-spec parts. I'm not familiar with how similar the SR556E lower is to a normal AR15 lower; but it might be worth taking a look if you don't want to just send it back to Ruger.
And of course, it could just be operator error too.
Bartholomew Roberts
Moderator
On the function check, you may want to check it more than once since when the wear/specs are minimal, you won't see it happen every time but just occasionally. And you mentioned that in the first 30 rounds, it only happened twice.
However, good news that the first function check went well. Hopefully, it is just some trigger control issue and you can adjust to that. One way to work on that is to be very deliberate about holding the trigger back after the round is fired and releasing only to reset. Either way, good luck!
However, good news that the first function check went well. Hopefully, it is just some trigger control issue and you can adjust to that. One way to work on that is to be very deliberate about holding the trigger back after the round is fired and releasing only to reset. Either way, good luck!
FrankenMauser
New member
I'm thinking it was a bump fire, caused by squeezing the trigger.
I've done the same with M4s, M16A2s, AR15s, and SKSs. It always happened in situations where I had a relaxed grip on the rifle, but was using a rest, and had my right arm supported in some way (right handed). Combine that with a slow squeeze of the trigger, and you can get some interesting bump fires.
You get some flack from military ROs when you go "Full Auto" at the range, during a semi-auto qualification... until you point to the selector switch in the SA position.
And, you get some really funky looks at a civilian range, when you go "Full Auto" with an SKS. Eight rounds was the most I ever "dumped" into the target, and every person on that range was staring at me while I reloaded (I knew what happened, and didn't bother function checking for the "malfunction").
Biggest things to pay attention to:
Use a firmer grip on the rifle. (Particularly your trigger hand. - Don't "kill" it, just take up the slack, so your hand can't bounce around on the grip.)
Get the stock up against your shoulder.
I've done the same with M4s, M16A2s, AR15s, and SKSs. It always happened in situations where I had a relaxed grip on the rifle, but was using a rest, and had my right arm supported in some way (right handed). Combine that with a slow squeeze of the trigger, and you can get some interesting bump fires.
You get some flack from military ROs when you go "Full Auto" at the range, during a semi-auto qualification... until you point to the selector switch in the SA position.
And, you get some really funky looks at a civilian range, when you go "Full Auto" with an SKS. Eight rounds was the most I ever "dumped" into the target, and every person on that range was staring at me while I reloaded (I knew what happened, and didn't bother function checking for the "malfunction").
Biggest things to pay attention to:
Use a firmer grip on the rifle. (Particularly your trigger hand. - Don't "kill" it, just take up the slack, so your hand can't bounce around on the grip.)
Get the stock up against your shoulder.
Uncle Malice
New member
I have the SR-556C, which is the "E" model, just the full size, or did something else come out? (I suppose I can go google it 
)
I have not had that happen on mine. Hopefully it was just bad trigger control. I love my SR. I upgraded to the Magpul MOE stock and Ergogrip on mine.
Edit: Ohhh.. I see. The "E" model doesn't have the quad rail. Neat.
)I have not had that happen on mine. Hopefully it was just bad trigger control. I love my SR. I upgraded to the Magpul MOE stock and Ergogrip on mine.
Edit: Ohhh.. I see. The "E" model doesn't have the quad rail. Neat.
The "E" model is the economy model. No chrome barrel or bolt carrier, only a top rail on the hand guard and minus the Troy battle sights. Costs $400 less than the other models. Everything else is the same. Piston driven with an adjustable gas block.
I am begining to believe in the trigger control idea. I guess I need some more bang bang time! Thanks fellers!
I am begining to believe in the trigger control idea. I guess I need some more bang bang time! Thanks fellers!