Ruger Redhawk Question.
- Thread starter ATTICUS
- Start date
Light as Silk
Haven't seen too many that are. However, my understanding is when it was designed with one spring vs 2 (mainspring, trigger return) that this would lower the double action. For a primarily hunting gun I would think they would have focused on single action.
Single action can be reduced to a degree by changing the angles at which the sear surfaces are cut (but there is a limit to what can be done safely).
Having had Redhawks, S&W's, etc. after tuning the double action on the Redhawk can never approach the Smith and maintain ignition reliability. The Super Redhawk returned to the two spring design and allows more leeway it what can be done.
My $.02 FWIW.
Jim
Haven't seen too many that are. However, my understanding is when it was designed with one spring vs 2 (mainspring, trigger return) that this would lower the double action. For a primarily hunting gun I would think they would have focused on single action.
Single action can be reduced to a degree by changing the angles at which the sear surfaces are cut (but there is a limit to what can be done safely).
Having had Redhawks, S&W's, etc. after tuning the double action on the Redhawk can never approach the Smith and maintain ignition reliability. The Super Redhawk returned to the two spring design and allows more leeway it what can be done.
My $.02 FWIW.
Jim
Redhawk ramblings...
I've had several of the 5.5" standard Redhawks, and both my brothers either currently have, or have had, the 7.5" version; my 'keeper' Redhawk is an old blue 5.5" .44 that makes nice, round little 4-5" groups at 100 yards (300 grain loads) off the sandbags.
I've messed with the actions on these for a long time, and these brothers of mine have kept me plenty busy with their guns too. I have finally settled on just polishing contact surfaces and thinning the SA sear on the hammer just enough to take the creep out of the trigger. Mine will absolutely not 'push off' or release if the gun gets dropped, but it results in an entirely usable trigger.
(NO, I don't do them for anybody else anymore AND I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT YOU TRY THIS YOURSELF! Pay a gunsmith and let somebody else worry about the liability issues.)
I don't even fiddle with the springs, and I resolved myself a long time ago to just learn to shoot the gun with the factory springs. Two more pounds of trigger pull beats a misfire or an AD any day.
One of the beautiful things about the Redhawk is that you can file a front sight for each of several loads, and re-zero for each load just by changing sights. This is not as easy as it sounds, and requires some range time and ammo; but I now have a sight that is dead on at 100 with 300 grain XTP's at just over 1300 fps, and another sight that puts my 1500 fps 200 grain Noslers on at 50. I'm working on another for my 200 grain lead 'plinking/small game load at about 1000 fps; I'm gonna zero this one at 25. No screw turning involved, just change sights and recharge the cylinder with something else. This could also be accomplished with the Super redhawk, or the 'Hunter' model .44 SA.
The Redhawk screams for two things- a trigger stop and decent grips. Any good smith can take care of the former, but what constitutes good grips is entirely subjective for each user. I've been using the Uncle Mike's Butler Creek, and even with the monster 'Redhawk Only' 300+ grain loads, it is not uncomfortable for me to shoot. I just wish they had left those silly-a$$ed finger grooves off.
I am about to gamble $91 on a set of Herrett's, they just may be the right 'icing' for this otherwise-perfect cake. I just haven't been able to decide between the Jordan Troopers or Shooting Masters yet, and for that kind of money I'd like to pick well the first time. I'm also toying with the idea of trying some Ivorex panels and a Tyler 'T-grip.
I've had some 29s over the years, and the 4" guns DO pack better than the Redhawk. They also kick harder, and shoot loose/wear out faster. What the 29's don't do is shoot any better than the Ruger, especially once you get a good trigger and decent grips on the latter. Shame Ruger didn't bother with these things at the drawing board.
Good shootin' to ya'll...
I've had several of the 5.5" standard Redhawks, and both my brothers either currently have, or have had, the 7.5" version; my 'keeper' Redhawk is an old blue 5.5" .44 that makes nice, round little 4-5" groups at 100 yards (300 grain loads) off the sandbags.
I've messed with the actions on these for a long time, and these brothers of mine have kept me plenty busy with their guns too. I have finally settled on just polishing contact surfaces and thinning the SA sear on the hammer just enough to take the creep out of the trigger. Mine will absolutely not 'push off' or release if the gun gets dropped, but it results in an entirely usable trigger.
(NO, I don't do them for anybody else anymore AND I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT YOU TRY THIS YOURSELF! Pay a gunsmith and let somebody else worry about the liability issues.)
I don't even fiddle with the springs, and I resolved myself a long time ago to just learn to shoot the gun with the factory springs. Two more pounds of trigger pull beats a misfire or an AD any day.
One of the beautiful things about the Redhawk is that you can file a front sight for each of several loads, and re-zero for each load just by changing sights. This is not as easy as it sounds, and requires some range time and ammo; but I now have a sight that is dead on at 100 with 300 grain XTP's at just over 1300 fps, and another sight that puts my 1500 fps 200 grain Noslers on at 50. I'm working on another for my 200 grain lead 'plinking/small game load at about 1000 fps; I'm gonna zero this one at 25. No screw turning involved, just change sights and recharge the cylinder with something else. This could also be accomplished with the Super redhawk, or the 'Hunter' model .44 SA.
The Redhawk screams for two things- a trigger stop and decent grips. Any good smith can take care of the former, but what constitutes good grips is entirely subjective for each user. I've been using the Uncle Mike's Butler Creek, and even with the monster 'Redhawk Only' 300+ grain loads, it is not uncomfortable for me to shoot. I just wish they had left those silly-a$$ed finger grooves off.
I am about to gamble $91 on a set of Herrett's, they just may be the right 'icing' for this otherwise-perfect cake. I just haven't been able to decide between the Jordan Troopers or Shooting Masters yet, and for that kind of money I'd like to pick well the first time. I'm also toying with the idea of trying some Ivorex panels and a Tyler 'T-grip.
I've had some 29s over the years, and the 4" guns DO pack better than the Redhawk. They also kick harder, and shoot loose/wear out faster. What the 29's don't do is shoot any better than the Ruger, especially once you get a good trigger and decent grips on the latter. Shame Ruger didn't bother with these things at the drawing board.
Good shootin' to ya'll...
I suspect that the previous owner of this revolver had some trigger work done. The SA is just OK, but the DA is excellent.
(Hopefully not too good). The trigger/hammer stages like clock work, and the final let-off is as light as a feather. I gotta get to the range this week and try it out. He/she kept it immaculate and even went to the trouble of gold laquering the lettering on the revolver, which looks pretty good on the dark black finish. I'm thinking that a nice set of black/gray laminant wood grips with a brass screw might look nice... and be functional. I bought a set of Hogue rubber grips last night and they definately weren't the answer. Thanks for the replies.
(Hopefully not too good). The trigger/hammer stages like clock work, and the final let-off is as light as a feather. I gotta get to the range this week and try it out. He/she kept it immaculate and even went to the trouble of gold laquering the lettering on the revolver, which looks pretty good on the dark black finish. I'm thinking that a nice set of black/gray laminant wood grips with a brass screw might look nice... and be functional. I bought a set of Hogue rubber grips last night and they definately weren't the answer. Thanks for the replies.
Weird
I ordered my 5.5" stainless 44 Redhawk. When it arrived the DA pull was superb, enough so that we pulled out every other big-frame revolver in the shop. Must have laid a dozen guns on the counter.
Blind testing gave my BRAND NEW Redhawk the DA win. A S&W 629 won the SA portion.
I ordered my 5.5" stainless 44 Redhawk. When it arrived the DA pull was superb, enough so that we pulled out every other big-frame revolver in the shop. Must have laid a dozen guns on the counter.
Blind testing gave my BRAND NEW Redhawk the DA win. A S&W 629 won the SA portion.
redhawk44p
New member
Here is a pic of my Redhawk. I can't imagine a better 44 than a Redhawk.
BusGunner007
New member
5.5" Blue with Hogue grip for me.
Not that I know any better, but, now I have to take mine to gunsmith and ask if mine has a good "trigger" or not...
Not that I know any better, but, now I have to take mine to gunsmith and ask if mine has a good "trigger" or not...
redhawk44p
New member
I agree Jim a 8 shot would be great.
I put fiber optic sights on the pistol since the picturer was taken. I like a post front sight much better than a ramp.
The best way to smooth a Redhawk trigger is to put the dry firing ring in and dry fire the dickens out of it. It will make you a better shot to boot.
I put fiber optic sights on the pistol since the picturer was taken. I like a post front sight much better than a ramp.
The best way to smooth a Redhawk trigger is to put the dry firing ring in and dry fire the dickens out of it. It will make you a better shot to boot.