Ruger Old Army base pin latch

Z

zippy13

New member
I'm pondering replacing my ROA base pin latch with a push button type. From first glance, the one in my New Model Blackhawk looks too small. Since I'd have to make-up a tool to remove it to allow closer inspection, I'll pose the question, instead:
Has anyone installed a push type base pin latch in a ROA without having to modify the existing 1/3-turn latch's holes -- and, if so, what model of latch did you use?​
 
Thanks for sharing your ClemBert Pin -- I like it better than a push-type. I'm surprised the Belt Mt folks weren't interested. They're the ones I first thought of when I tried to Google ROA base pin latches and came up with zilch. I think I'll try one that's just a pinch different -- perhaps something asymmetrical.
latch.gif
 
Clem

Is there any chance I could employ you to manufacture theese little wonders,I would need three asap,future orders will follow,name your price,and drop me a line:D
 
Is there any chance I could employ you to manufacture theese little wonders,I would need three asap,future orders will follow,name your price,and drop me a line
Click to expand...

Aw, c'mon! ;) Even I can do this job! In fact, I just ordered a couple of spare pins so I can keep the original ones as is. Basically, all you need is some soldering skills and a Chinese milling machine (i.e., a file :D).
 
I just got a 1/2" (1.25" OD) stainless-steel washer for 65-cents. This looks to be one of my cheapest mods, yet. I just did a loading stand from wood scraps, but the hinge was almost $2.

roastand.jpg


Yep, I know, that's a Remmy in the ROA's stand -- the Ruger is apart, and waiting for that washer to be smallerized.
 
Here's my version of the ClemBert Pin. I departed from my initial schematic (see #3) with a radius to match the contour of the Old Army. If I can do it, including brazing stainless for the first time, then anyone can.

Thanks, again ClemBert!

cbpin.jpg
 
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Zippy, great job! Now post us some pics with it installed.

Andrew, Zippy does better work than me. Maybe he can make you up a few.
 
I must confess, my ClemBert Pin took MUCH longer than I'd anticipated. The main reason is my lack of experience silver brazing. As I applied the solder, I thought: "What harm could a pinch more do, just to make sure I get full penetration?" Well, I got good penetration, all right, and several large blobs as a bonus. It took what seemed like an eternity to file away those blobs -- the stuff is much harder than the lead/tin solder I've used before.

After countless file strokes, I got to thinking, there must be an easier way. Then it hit me: How about using the technique found on some of the components on my classic bikes? The old Campagnolo downtube mounted shifter had an adjuster screw with a wire loop as a finger grab. Wouldn't something like that work great on the ClemBert Pin? Drill two holes, bend a bit of 15-ga stainless steel spoke -- and you done -- no filing at all. Some food for thought should I try another pin.

Here's a pic of my ClemBert Pin in a ROA with a catalog cut of the old-school Campy shifter tension adjustment screw.

pinlatchingun.jpg
 
Could the size & shape of the pin cause an injurious ricochet in the event of a chain fire involving one of the cylinders that's in line with it? That may only potentially occur during the 1st or 2nd shot fired from a freshly loaded cylinder because the cylinder turns in that direction.
 
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Most likely his ClemBert Pin is just going to bend right over. I think the main disadvantage is a possible holster hangup on some types of holsters. I don't holster myself but if I did I go with my other style of ClemBert Pin...the one with the knurled end on it that can be see in the the linked thread.
 
Articap asked, "Could the shape of the pin cause an injurious ricochet in the event of a chain fire involving one of the cylinders that's in line with it?"
Good point, it's not beyond the realm of possibility; but, the factory latch was in the path of a chain fire before the thumber was added. It's another reason the folding Campy-style wire loop, or a knurled nut might be a better idea. I use heavily lubricated custom over powder wads with hopes they will prevent chain firing.
 
zippy, my ClemBert Pin was made specifically for my conversion cylinder so I could very quickly remove the conversion cylinder, reload, and re-install it. It is unlikely that I'd have a chainfire with my 45 Colt reloads. I use a factory retaining pin when shooting cap-n-ball style. Thus, my comment on a potential holster issue as being the primary issue for me....but...I don't holster....yet. IF I had a holster and IF I had a hangup issue I'd probably reduce the size of the finger grip (the washer) on my ClemBert Pin. Then it would not get hung up in a holster. Your idea of using a wire type loop is interesting.
 
I don't use one; but, for holster use, as ClemBert said, the wire loop or his knurled knob would be a better choice than the thumb lever. I love my ROA, but it's a bother to remove the cylinder (compared to the RNA) when loading with a cylinder press.
 
If you are using the cartridge cylinder with the factory base pin/bullet seater setup couldn't you just fire the pistol without locking the screw? The reason i am asking this is because I do this with my ROA but if for some reason I am overlooking would this would be unsafe?
 
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