Small Town
Inactive
I just got a Ruger No. 1 in 30-06, and have heard somewhere that there are "tricks" to allow it to shoot more accurately...is this true, and where can I find the tips???
Ruger No. 1 Accuracy
- Thread starter Small Town
- Start date
A Ruger #1A in .270 is my favorite deer hunting rifle. It is not the most accurate rifle I've ever fired, not even the most accurate .270 putting 5 shots into groups of 3 to 5 inches at 100 yards. I was initially disappointed with the rifle but my views on this rifle have changed after I started a little more thoughtful work from the bench.
The first shot from a cold barrel always, and I mean always, goes to the point of aim. The second shot drops in within half an inch. Shot 3 goes high about 1 to 1.5 inches each and every time. 3 shot groups look like elongated triangles. As the thin barrel heats the shots spread. Not terribly impressive until you remember this is a single shot hunting rifle not a benchrest gun. Having the first shot always go to point of aim is the important part with the second shot right on top is sufficient. If you can't do it with two shots then you need a bolt action gun or possibly a semi auto. Single shots require more discipline in the field and are a very satisfying way to take game.
The first shot from a cold barrel always, and I mean always, goes to the point of aim. The second shot drops in within half an inch. Shot 3 goes high about 1 to 1.5 inches each and every time. 3 shot groups look like elongated triangles. As the thin barrel heats the shots spread. Not terribly impressive until you remember this is a single shot hunting rifle not a benchrest gun. Having the first shot always go to point of aim is the important part with the second shot right on top is sufficient. If you can't do it with two shots then you need a bolt action gun or possibly a semi auto. Single shots require more discipline in the field and are a very satisfying way to take game.
SmallTown. Ruger #1 rifles are, or at leastcan be, temperamental, to say the least. My .300 Win. Mag. will do 3/8 inch at 100 yards. My .270, 1.5 inch. Most of the others fall somewhere in between. I have ten of the little demons.
FWIW. It is my understanding that Ruger's accuracy standard for the rifle is 2 inches at 50 yards. Not too cool for such an expensive rifle.
Contact Wolfe Publishing and see if you can get a copy of RIFLE Magazine September 2000, #191. There is an excellent article on tuning up a Ruger #1 in that issue. (www.riflemagazine.com) should get you there.
Paul B.
FWIW. It is my understanding that Ruger's accuracy standard for the rifle is 2 inches at 50 yards. Not too cool for such an expensive rifle.Contact Wolfe Publishing and see if you can get a copy of RIFLE Magazine September 2000, #191. There is an excellent article on tuning up a Ruger #1 in that issue. (www.riflemagazine.com) should get you there.
Paul B.
WalterGAII
Moderator
Brownell's sells both adjustable triggers and a device that fits on the muzzle end of the stock, for adjusting pressure on the #1's barrel. Check 'em out.
Keith Rogan
New member
I think what you're looking for is a forearm rework that was developed about ten years ago and popularized by writer Ross Seyfried.
I don't know where you'd get particulars on this, but essentially the work consists of having a metal plate glass bedded inside the forearm with a "tension screw" through the middle that presses against the barrel. You simply experiment with different settings on the screw until you find what works on your rifle.
In effect you are not only applying tension to the barrel, but glass bedding the springs, etc, in a way that they no longer bind with the barrel as it heats up.
I had this done on a 7mm Mauser #1 several years ago and it worked like a charm. The rifle was still no tack driver (though I never really experimented with "accuracy loads" - this was a deer buster), but the forearm work cost about $100 bucks and shrank groups from 3 - 3 1/2" down to about 1 1/2" with my heavy hunting loads. It works.
I'm sure somebody in the gunsmith forum could give you better info on this technique.
I don't know where you'd get particulars on this, but essentially the work consists of having a metal plate glass bedded inside the forearm with a "tension screw" through the middle that presses against the barrel. You simply experiment with different settings on the screw until you find what works on your rifle.
In effect you are not only applying tension to the barrel, but glass bedding the springs, etc, in a way that they no longer bind with the barrel as it heats up.
I had this done on a 7mm Mauser #1 several years ago and it worked like a charm. The rifle was still no tack driver (though I never really experimented with "accuracy loads" - this was a deer buster), but the forearm work cost about $100 bucks and shrank groups from 3 - 3 1/2" down to about 1 1/2" with my heavy hunting loads. It works.
I'm sure somebody in the gunsmith forum could give you better info on this technique.
I own a Number one in 6mm PPC that will put em in the same hole all day long at a 100 yds while my 270 will barely hit a coffee cup with factory ammo. I can tighten it up to 1.5" groups with hand loads. but the first shot will go right where you want it!!! so for hunting you MUST be concerned with shot placement. IT SHOULD ONLY TAKE ONE !.
One point that I want to make is that all my new england handi-rifles shot very close to or better than MOA out of the box for a LOT cheaper than the Number 1 !!!
One point that I want to make is that all my new england handi-rifles shot very close to or better than MOA out of the box for a LOT cheaper than the Number 1 !!!
Michael Priddy
New member
I bought a used Ruger #1 at a gun show in a 6mm Remingon. I had some trouble getting it to accecpt reloads. It would not chamber 95% of the cases that were sized with a small base die. I bought a neck size die and have had not problems since. My best group at the bench is .252" with W760 and 75gr V-Max. I never did figure why it would not chamber cases that were full length sized...Michael