Ruger Mark III trigger job

Ocraknife

New member
So, I recently picked up a Mark III target in stainless, I think it's some kind of special edition or something because it cost a bit more than some of the other Mark IIIs on the shelf but heck if I can figure out the difference between them.

Anyway, this thing points like a dream and I feel that I shoot it pretty well, at least by my standards (which aren't very high).

All that said, the trigger could be better and I'm thinking that I like this pistol well enough to invest in getting it smoother with less travel if that is possible. So, my question is, is that possible on this gun? I just want it smoothed up a bit.

Has anyone here taken their Mark III to armorer to get it tuned up?

Thanks :)
 
Get a Volquartsen hammer, sear and a new spring set from MidwayUSA.com and you will have a nice 2 1/2 - 3 lb trigger. That should make you happy and will tighten up your groupsl
 
Remove the mag disconnect and replace the hammer bushing with a Sam Lam (or similar) bushing (you'll have to replace the bushing when removing the mag disconnect). Just doing this will improve the trigger feel slightly, and will make field stripping MUCH easier. A bonus is that mags will now drop freely.

Then install a Volquartsen trigger and sear (you can skip their hammer), and you'll be good to go!
 
You just like paying extra?

Not if I can help it:p

I didn't word my post very well, as is my custom.

What I meant was, there is a metric -CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED--ton of pistols that carry the Mark III moniker and the nomenclature of lack thereof is confusing to a lil' ol' country boy like me.

I bought a Mark III target USA Shooter something or other and it turned out the be the most expensive Mark III they had in the case. Maybe I paid more that I could have maybe I didn't I don't know. What I do know is that this gun looked and felt great to me (much better than any other pistol I inspected that day) and I was willing to pay their asking price.
 
Remove the mag disconnect and replace the hammer bushing with a Sam Lam (or similar) bushing (you'll have to replace the bushing when removing the mag disconnect). Just doing this will improve the trigger feel slightly, and will make field stripping MUCH easier. A bonus is that mags will now drop freely.

Then install a Volquartsen trigger and sear (you can skip their hammer), and you'll be good to go!

I don't have much experience altering firearms, If I took my gun to a decent armorer (I have no idea who's good and who isn't in the Nashville area) with the parts y'all mentioned he should be able to fix me up right?
 
Normally the Mark III trigger is pretty good but not perfect. I understand your hesitation to do it yourself and you are the best judge of your abilities but I gotta ask if you looked at the video? The good thing about the Volquartsen parts is that they are not really modification as much as drop in replacement parts. Kinda like putting new plugs or exhaust on your car. They are safe and can only go in one way. Just something to consider. Any descent gunsmith should be able to do the work at a reasonable cost.
 
Normally the Mark III trigger is pretty good but not perfect. I understand your hesitation to do it yourself and you are the best judge of your abilities but I gotta ask if you looked at the video? The good thing about the Volquartsen parts is that they are not really modification as much as drop in replacement parts. Kinda like putting new plugs or exhaust on your car. They are safe and can only go in one way. Just something to consider. Any descent gunsmith should be able to do the work at a reasonable cost.

I have not looked at the video yet. I'm fairly mechanically inclined so perhaps I have the tools and the ability but I'm funny when it comes to firearms for some reason. I think I'm afraid I'll do something and ruin the accuracy even though I know that is a stupid feeling. Am I the only one who feels this way?
 
Maybe I should shoot a few thousand rounds to see if the trigger loosens up (the rest of the gun is tight as a frog's ass) or I get used to it before I do too much to it.
 
Ocraknife, I wasn't being critical of you at all just posing an option. As far as the gun loosing up I think you'll find you will run out of .22 ammo before the gun loosens up much. I have a Mark I from 1969 and it still shoots tight groups and is tight. I did replace the springs at about 20,000 rounds. Enjoy your Mark III.
 
Ocraknife, I wasn't being critical of you at all just posing an option. As far as the gun loosing up I think you'll find you will run out of .22 ammo before the gun loosens up much. I have a Mark I from 1969 and it still shoots tight groups and is tight. I did replace the springs at about 20,000 rounds. Enjoy your Mark III.

I'm sorry, I didn't mean to imply that even in the slightest that you were being critical. I just misunderstood. I will probably do the trigger job soon. I'm happy with my groups now but there is something about his gun that makes me feel it could be a real tack driver. I know this sounds silly but it seems like I've owned this thing my whole life, it feels that comfortable.
 
I have not looked at the video yet. I'm fairly mechanically inclined so perhaps I have the tools and the ability but I'm funny when it comes to firearms for some reason. I think I'm afraid I'll do something and ruin the accuracy even though I know that is a stupid feeling. Am I the only one who feels this way?
I understand the feeling.
I am not a gunsmith, but I work on my own guns. Every gunsmithing task that I perform has moments or months of hesitation preceding it.
It took me almost a year to get the courage to order a chamber reamer to fix a manufacturer's mistake (they kept sending me bad barrels :rolleyes:).

Right now, I have two important rifle builds underway. One has been on the back burner for multiple reasons, but one of them is that the stock is nearing its final shape. If I take too much wood off now, I have to start over or live with something I don't like. But, this wood (knotty screwbean mesquite) is now a protected species that's very difficult and expensive to obtain in pieces large enough for rifle stocks.
The other one hasn't really been touched since I discovered that there's a flaw in the action. ...A flaw that doesn't impact performance, but a flaw that: A) I can't fix. And, B) greatly complicates fitting the rough-shaped stock that I bought for it. Again... if I screw up this piece of wood (maple with a lot of character), I can't really afford to start over.


However......
The parts replacements recommended are not really gunsmithing in the sense that you probably envision. It's more just parts-swapping and function-checking, after disassembly that's just a step or two more than standard field-stripping.
 
I don't have much experience altering firearms, If I took my gun to a decent armorer (I have no idea who's good and who isn't in the Nashville area) with the parts y'all mentioned he should be able to fix me up right?

All of the modifications I mentioned are easily done on your own. Get a little punch set and cue up the Youtube videos and you'll be good to go.
 
The factory pull will usually improve with use, or can be modified by any competent gunsmith, but it will almost always be cheaper and easier to simply swap in new parts from Volquartsen or equivalent Removal of the magazine safety would be your choice. (I have advised against tinkering with safety devices in a self-defense or carry gun, but the MK III Ruger is not normally used in either role so I have little hesitation about any safe alteration that can add to accuracy.)

Jim
 
^^^
Ruger 22 pistols seemed to have managed without a mag safety since just after WW2, so it's not likely you or your pistol will miss it.
 
I am not particularly skilled with hand guns, but my old Mark II with bull barrel is undoubtedly the most accurate hand gun I have ever personally fired.

It is almost uncanny how such tight groups can be fired from a totally stock pistol. I think it was a pretty brilliant design that just fit my eye and hand better than any other I have owned.

I have not fired a Mark III but I would bet they also perform great.
 
I'm sorry, I didn't mean to imply that even in the slightest that you were being critical. I just misunderstood. I will probably do the trigger job soon. I'm happy with my groups now but there is something about his gun that makes me feel it could be a real tack driver. I know this sounds silly but it seems like I've owned this thing my whole life, it feels that comfortable.

I have some accurate pistols but my Ruger Mark models are verrrrrrry accurate. They have nearly no recoil and produce more consistent performance than I can. I have a 1969 model Mark I that has more than 30,000 rounds through it and it is as accurate today as when I got it. I wish I was. If it is an accuracy issue it may not be the trigger. The Mark I and Mark II pistols did not have a loaded chamber Indicator (LCI). The Mark III and 2245 pistols do. The LCI rests against the round in the chamber and can affect reproducibility. The LCI is plastic and flexes when the pistol fires. Removing the LCI tends to tighten groups. There are simple kits to replace them.
 
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