Ruger Mark II Recoil Spring Replacement

L

LenB

Inactive
I want to replace the factory recoil spring on this gun with a Wolff extra power spring, but the job has me stymied. Looks like the recoil rod assembly is riveted together - no simple way to get it apart. Any tips or tricks would be appreciated, as well as recommendations for a gunsmith who can do the job.

Thanks.
 
That unit IS riveted together; it is not intended to be replaced except as a unit. It can be broken apart, but I don't recommend it. Also, I guess I am dumb this week, but the original spring works as designed and does the job. What improvement would another spring provide?

(Why does everyone have to tinker around? If it ain't broke, don't fix it.)

Jim
 
Don't know about "everybody", but I just like to tinker.
Maybe there's a 12-step program that can cure me, but I don't know of any offhand.

Anyway, past tinkering is the reason I wanted to replace the spring. With the Volq reduced power hammer spring I have installed, standard velocity loads will drive the bolt back hard enough to mark the recoil stop pin. Not a dent, just a mark and I'm not really concerned about it.

I did want to try a higher velocity load, so I figure a stronger recoil spring might be in order. I can always go back to the stock hammer spring if I have to, but like I said, I'm a degenerate tinkerer.
 
But if you know it all and just want to tinker, you probably can figure out some way to replace the spring (it can be done).

Just because the bolt stop is marked is no reason to worry. It is normal and expected and the gun is designed to handle it. Ruger .22 pistols have routinely gone 10,000 rounds of high speed ammo without any problems or breakage, so IMHO there is nothing to fix.

If you want worry, think of all the wear involved when your car's pistons go up and down!

Jim
 
OK, Len, here goes,

Remove the recoil spring unit. Push the retainer (at the front) back along the guide until the spring is compressed. Lock it in place with padded locking pliers on the guide rod. With the front of the rod exposed, tap the peened-over end from the side of the rod until it is even with the rest of the rod. Release the retainer slowly and let it come off. The spring can then be removed and the new one put on. Then rest the other end of the pin in a vise or on something round and solid, and put the retainer on. Then again use the pliers to hold the retainer and spring, clamp the end of the rod in a vise, and peen the end of the rod over again to keep the retainer in place. (Just resting the end of the rod will not give solid enough support for peening and you can easily bend the rod.) This should work. If there isn't enough to peen, or something goes wrong, then you buy a new unit from Ruger and start again. They are only a couple of bucks.

Make sure that you don't shorten the guide rod; its back end has to be supported by the bolt stop pin. You can assemble the gun without the rod peened but then you won't be able to remove the spring and guide as a unit and you take a chance on losing the retainer on the next disassembly.

Remember, though, that there is no such thing as a free lunch. If you increase spring tension to reduce wear on the bolt stop, you increase wear and battering at the front where the bolt impacts the barrel. Factory engineers balance recoil springs to get the best results all around.

Jim
 
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