Ruger m77 357/38 possible to add silencer

J

jproaster

New member
To go along with my Service Six I'd like to add a carbine. Still deciding which- depends on what is available I suppose. Anyhow, I read a few threads with a couple fellows mentioning a silencer on a ruger m77 357/38. For some reason, this appeals to me...if not too terribly expensive. I realize most folks wouldn't pay this price.

So, can that barrel be threaded? And since I'm asking, what might be the advantage of a silencer?

Thanks,
John
 
Most any barrel can be threaded.

The "advantage" of a supressor is the reduction in sound which makes it more pleasant to shoot and can eliminate the need to wear hearing protection.
 
And they are supposed to reduce muzzle flash.

How much of each of these effects is probably dependent on the design.
When I have inquired about 357 max suppresors most middle plus manufacturers have been willing to say their 9mm suppressors are rated for those pressures.
I think threading, done properly on a lathe don't try it with a dye, costs between $100 and $200.
 
Are you asking if threading can be done or if there's adequate barrel wall thickness (at minimum legal length or longer) to allow the threading?
The actual threading runs $85 to ?? depending on certain aspects of the process. If the barrel is easily removable from the receiver, it's often cheaper.
 
I'm wondering if the barrel on the m77 357 is capable of being threaded for a silencer- barrel thickness, sights, etc.

It appears that the labor, (if threading is possible), silencer, and stamp will be as much as the gun itself...which is why I ask about the benefits of silencers.

Thanks for responding guys.
John
 
It would make a pretty nice little thing. Even just .38 loads would be very, very quiet when loaded to sub sonic levels and still really lethal with 158 grain bullets on small/medium critters. Best coyote gun (for fur collectors) I can think of, as long as the range doesn't beat 100 or so yards.
 
Any front sight will almost certainly need to be removed or moved back an inch or two.

I think there are several methods to get around the barrel thickness issue. Adapters and such.

It appears that the labor, (if threading is possible), silencer, and stamp will be as much as the gun itself
Click to expand...
I think for many considering buying a first silencer, part of the issue is trying to find a way to make it work on multiple firearms. If one could buy a suppressor that would work perfectly on all their arms I think most of us would have one. All that money for one firearm is a lot. Most people seem to go with a suppressor that matches their large bore which will work pretty well on anything smaller. A 357 suppressor would be a pistol suppressor, so a .45 would work for the 357, 9mm, 40, etc. Rifle suppressors are generally larger, heavier, and unwieldy on pistols. I've never fired a rifle suppressor on a pistol though or even held such a set-up to gauge balance. Of course, since you want to use it on a carbine you could get a rifle suppressor also.

There are two modular suppressors that have hit the market in the last year or so. They are supposed to be able to do rifle and pistol pretty well. Some feedback available, but not much.
 
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There is video on youtube of a guy haveing a can put on his .357 LEVER gun. Very neat concept. Low action noise, vast follow up shots,VERY quiet.

If you have the desire (and the $)... Go for it.

I shoot everything i can suppressed. Although i admit im a little over the top, 6 cans and waiting on a 7th right now:eek:
 
Thanks for the advice all. I'll be calculating my next move after deciding on the gun. I like the ruger (bolt), but quick follow up shots are probably out of the question with the bolt action.

John

And thanks John for the sharing how to think through the possibilities with silencers.
 
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I do not know a lot about suppressors but understand they are meant to be used with subsonic rounds. Will they do anything for super sonic rounds?
 
It can and has been done, I cant recall what sight I saw it but it was a great looking setup and the owner was happy with the setup. I plan on this setup once I can find a Ruger 77/357 for a reasonable price.
 
Regarding the question about remaining subsonic, if you are limited to 1,000 fps, the only way to raise energy is to raise bullet weight. Shooting at any animal would be best done with the heaviest bullet available, and with the bullet best suited for low velocity expansion. It may turn out that the only reasonable option for bigger game like deer would be to load 180 grain lead semi wadcutters. on coyotes, you could easily load defensive 158 grain bullets meant for .38 special.

Don't know what the best powder would be, but fast ones in the range of 231come to mind, as it will function best in the small charges and large capacity of a .357 case at the low pressures generated by a subsonic round.
 
You'll have plenty of time to get machine work done as NFA stamp approval is crazy slow.
Don't expect to keep your front sight(it might be possible to set it back) and don't expect TV sound reduction with super-sonic ammo. Standard 38SP would likely be first choice for lowest report.
 
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