No particular argument with the above ideas, but let me make life a bit simpler.
"Break in" has been discussed here many times. Since what you have is a hunting rifle and not a benchrest rifle, I can't see where worrying about breaking it in has any merit. The key is to do a bit of extra cleaning when you are first sighting it in and testing for which ammo works best as to accuracy.
As to ammo, I have been quite pleased with the Federal (85-grain Sierra boat-tailed hollow-point (HPBT) in my .243. It's as accurate as my handloads; 3/8" to 1/2" three-shot groups.
Bore sighting: Set the rifle, sans bolt, on some sort of rest on your dining table or desk, pointed out a window at some "target" at a distance. Look through the bore; look through the scope. Twiddle the knobs until the two are pretty much together.
For your first shooting, do it at 25 yards. I don't remember if that scope is 1/4- or 1/2-MOA (Minute Of Angle; roughly 1" at 100 yards), but it will take either four or two times as many clicks at 25 yards as at 100 yards to get a given amount of movement of the point of impact. At 25 yards, it's just fine to shoot one shot and then adjust the scope.
Dead on at 25 yards is roughly two inches high at 100 yards. Roughly. So, the next step is the actual sighting in at 100 yards. If your first shot is on the paper--and it should be--fire two more shots at the same "hold" of the crosshairs.
Adjust the scope as necessary to move the imaginary center of the three shots to two inches high and horizontally centered. You don't need to wait around a lot between shots, but don't fire them "rapidly".
The trajectory of the 6mm Remington is for 2" high at 100 yards, you're dead on around 200 yards, and about 6" low at 300. That'll take care of 99% of your hunting needs.
If your three-shot groups are over an inch, and you're doing your part as to consistent sight picture, come on back and we'll talk about "tuning".
I hope all this stuff hasn't been a case of "talking down" to you; no such intent.
Regards,
Art