Ruger LCR 357 proven it self?

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I am still stick between the S&W 442(nolock model $370) or the Ruger LCR $450, I rather have the 357 so I could use 38 or 357, I dont want the S&W(357 magnum model) for $600!!!:mad:


Has the Ruger LCR proven itself? I know its only been out a few years, and most of the reviews I get are good, but what about the resetting of the trigger? I heard there was a slight problem? maybe thats just with all guns and some shooters don't let it go foward all the way.
 
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I volunteer at a shooting range as a line officer. Everybody I have seen with the Ruger LCRs have loved them. It's as good a double action trigger as I have every felt on a snubby. I like the weight of the .357 model.
 
I like mine. The reset is long just like other double action revolvers. I can actually shoot 50 full power magnums and had fun doing it in the process. My hand may be slightly bleeding afterwards but it is much more tolerable than a light weight J frame IMHO.
 
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I thought LCR didn't have a IL...
 
Ruger was much smarter about the lock than S&W.

Ruger first shipped that exact same lock in 2004 in the New Vaquero. They basically tested it for years on single action revolvers that are seldom pressed into defensive service, myself being one of a small number of exceptions :).

There were no failures on the SAs, not even in SASS competition guns with very high round counts.

Next they put it in the 13oz LCR38. No failures reported. They put it in the 17oz LCR357 and guess what? Still zero failure reports.

If you really hate it regardless, gunsmith West Fargo has a drop-in screw-adjustable hammer overtravel stop for the NewVaq that replaces the lock for $35:

http://www.cas-town.com/WestFargoGunsmith/parts.html

I believe this will fit either LCR - West should know. NOTE: seat the adjusting screw with blue locktite - if it walks it can tie up the gun, OR just ditch the adjusting screw altogether and it's then just a "lock eliminator kit".
 
Has the Ruger LCR proven itself? I know its only been out a few years, and most of the reviews I get are good, but what about the resetting of the trigger? I heard there was a slight problem? maybe thats just with all guns and some shooters don't let it go foward all the way.

The LCRs seem to be a solid bet. The trigger reset "issue" is from people who are accustomed to semi-autos not knowing you have the let the revolver trigger all the way forward to cycle the action properly. It won't cycle from the first click like a Glock will. (Also, the return spring seems to be fairly light on the LCRs I've tried.)
 
As far as the internal lock goes....it is not removable without destroying the polymer fire control housing. It is riveted to the housing, and only one side of the Vaquero lock unit is used. The other half of the Vaquero lock geometry is molded into the polymer FCH.
 
So theres no way to clean inside of the gun, like look at the internal parts like a S&W then.? Thats a big down side I see to this gun. Nothing to oil, clean. Gunk could build up around the firing pin etc...
 
The LCR was designed with minimal cleaning in mind and there's really no reason to take the fire control housing off the frame. In the manual it tells you to place a couple of drops of oil on the hammer pivot pin every 1,000 rounds or so and that's basically it beyond normal cleaning of exterior, barrel, chambers, and under the ejector. There's really nothing to "tinker" with inside the LCR - if you try to do some trigger work all you'll do is screw up the cam geometry on the trigger and hammer. Denis did a 5k endurance test on the LCR back when it was introduced if memory serves - maybe he can comment on his experience with needing to clean the LCR.
 
LCR has a better trigger and absorbs recoil better than its Smith counterparts. Ruger has a winner.

I think the trigger pull is purely subjective. The recoil absorption is due to the oversized grips that I think take away from the LCR's conceal-ability. Nevertheless, it's still a nice little revolver.
 
I wish I had waited on the .357, as my .38 LCR is a great gun. How's the recoil? I know shooting +Ps form my .38 can be punishing....
 
Felt recoil is very subjective. The large Hogue Tamer grips on the LCR help absorb alot of it. However, if you find the .38 uncomfortable the .357 will probably be perceived as worse. The .357 model does weigh a few ounces more which could help with it. Perhaps you could try shooting .38 out of the .357 model.
 
I have both the LCR 357 as well as the LCR 22. I really like them both. The 357 version is 4 Oz heavier than the 38 and 22 versions.

The LCR 357 with the addition of an XS 24/7 Tritium front sight most closely compairs with the S&W 340 M&P. I have a hair over $500 in my LCR 357 with the XS sight added as compaired to $700 for the 340 M&P. I was planning on trading for a 340 M&P when I did an evaluation of Bang for my Bucks, and took home the pair of LCR's for $850. I then ordered the XS 24/7 front sight for $60 for the LCR 357.

For pocket carry the grip is a hair wider than perfect. You can swap to a more compact grip if you want it more concealeble however. I belt carry in a Lobo Enhanced Pancake about 50% of the time, and will probably stay with the recoil absorbing grip that came with it.

I like the LCR triggers just fine. You will need to work on a J Frame trigger to get it close to a box stock LCR. You may however see some variations. My brother also has an LCR 22. His trigger is not as good as either of mine. I am hoping that it smooths out with some use.

For Information:
The XS 24/7 front sight will not work on the LCR 22 for precision accuracy. The LCR 22's front sight is .038 shorter than the LCR 357. This means it should cause the LCR 22 to shoot low with a propper sight picture using the rear sight trough.

Accuracy is just fine with both of my LCR's. I have been shooting both in BUG Division in our Clubs bimonthly defensive pistol match.

Reloading. The Safariland J Frame Comp I speedloader will not work with the LCR 38 or LCR 357. The HKS will work, but not perfectly. With the HKS you need to just start the cartridges in the chambers, and turn the knob. If you push the speedloader down hard it will wedge into the grip and not release the cartridges properly. You might even drag one or two out of the chambers when coming up with the speedloader. My advice, if you normally carry Quick Strips, practice with them. I am reloading my LCR 357 nearly as quickly with Quick Strips.

Practice: When using the LCR 22 for practice it will reload using Tuff Products Quick Strips also. Use Model 1022 Quick Strips, and load them skipping a round between pairs for cylinder clearance. You can load 7 shots in this manner. Index the cylinder with the empty chamber up doing a practice reload.

I have not had either of my LCR's apart so far for a look inside. I probably will have a look inside sooner or later, if just to see whats inside one. I see no work needing done to mine to tune them up any at all.

I am carrying Speer 135 grain Short Barrel 357 magnums in my LCR 357 for serious carry.
I am carrying CCI Velocitor 40 grain HP ammo in my LCR 22, as well as Stingers. I have not tested either so far in a Fackler Water Box for expansion and penetration evaluation.

Bottom Line, I Like the LCR's, and I own several Smith & Wessons.

Bob
 
Bob,

Unless we are talking about two separate grips, I found the smaller grips to still be to big for pocket carry. IMO, it's hard to beat the stock Airweight grips for pocket carry. The crimson trace defenders are better yet and give you the slimness of a pair of woods.
 
I do front pocket carry of a .38+P LCR with the Crimson Trace grips nearly daily here in Florida -- even in a bathing suit or shorts in the summer. I don't know why anybody has an issue with its concealability. I have more trouble remembering its on me sometimes. Great daily carry piece -- not sure I'd want to launch .357s out of one though..... .38 is fine for me...
 
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