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Ruger GP100
- Thread starter akinswi
- Start date
wild cat mccane
New member
Hey there!
The cylinder wall takes no force to worry about. It is the forcing cone and top strap that takes the wack. The wall size is sufficient for 357.
however, the 7 chamber 357 gp100 cylinder isnt as large as the 686 or frame. Some people have had problems with rims touching and not fitting. Research it a bit. Could be fixed now or not. We never got word from ruger what their claimed fix is was. There is a list of ammo that should be okay.
there are no ruger only 357 magnum rounds. The 686 plus has been around a looong time.
Gp prices are crazy right now. The came out at 620. The 686 at 650. Now they are the same price. I have had much better luck with interest in a 686 sell than two gp that i let go.
Dont totally buy that the gp is stronger. The 686 is thinner but a larger frame with better forge build.
good luck.!
The cylinder wall takes no force to worry about. It is the forcing cone and top strap that takes the wack. The wall size is sufficient for 357.
however, the 7 chamber 357 gp100 cylinder isnt as large as the 686 or frame. Some people have had problems with rims touching and not fitting. Research it a bit. Could be fixed now or not. We never got word from ruger what their claimed fix is was. There is a list of ammo that should be okay.
there are no ruger only 357 magnum rounds. The 686 plus has been around a looong time.
Gp prices are crazy right now. The came out at 620. The 686 at 650. Now they are the same price. I have had much better luck with interest in a 686 sell than two gp that i let go.
Dont totally buy that the gp is stronger. The 686 is thinner but a larger frame with better forge build.
good luck.!
wild cat mccane
New member
Totally get it. Not pushing you against the GP100. Just by question, it seemed like you might be reading about strengths and "built like a tank" comments that aren't reality.
If you have the 586, you know all about what the 686 brings. Lucky you for the pretty 586, but you're right. The stainless 686 or GP100 are just easier to manage as an owner.
Here is (one) rim binding issue of the GP100 on the ruger forum:
https://www.rugerforum.net/threads/...0-7-shot-binding-issue-is-fixed.376041/page-2
Despite what everyone says, the GP100 only has a 3rd lock up point over the 686. I believe that the GP100 1771 and 1773 models prove a point that has always been true: the 688 frame, cylinder, and cylinder window are larger while the guns are nearly the same size. Ie, I think it proves the forged 686 frame is the better of the two. It does size better while there is no difference in shooting out of time. The 686 top strap and forcing cone are not a problem, therefore the GP100 can't be strength superior. There just isn't anything to it.
The GP100 (all Rugers with a transfer bar) also has that additional problem. Not discuss much, but the GP100 transfer bar CAN beat itself to death if it is out of sync. Google it a bit. Not common, but also it is a real thing.
Good luck. With current prices, 686. Hands down. Not even a question by a small amount. The GP100 1773 is actually more pricey right now than a 686 6". The 6" are always less desirable and typically are cheaper for it. So you know the market is off right now for buying. A GP100, in 10 years prior to covid, never once was priced more than the exact same set up 686. Ever.
If you have the 586, you know all about what the 686 brings. Lucky you for the pretty 586, but you're right. The stainless 686 or GP100 are just easier to manage as an owner.
Here is (one) rim binding issue of the GP100 on the ruger forum:
https://www.rugerforum.net/threads/...0-7-shot-binding-issue-is-fixed.376041/page-2
Despite what everyone says, the GP100 only has a 3rd lock up point over the 686. I believe that the GP100 1771 and 1773 models prove a point that has always been true: the 688 frame, cylinder, and cylinder window are larger while the guns are nearly the same size. Ie, I think it proves the forged 686 frame is the better of the two. It does size better while there is no difference in shooting out of time. The 686 top strap and forcing cone are not a problem, therefore the GP100 can't be strength superior. There just isn't anything to it.
The GP100 (all Rugers with a transfer bar) also has that additional problem. Not discuss much, but the GP100 transfer bar CAN beat itself to death if it is out of sync. Google it a bit. Not common, but also it is a real thing.
Good luck. With current prices, 686. Hands down. Not even a question by a small amount. The GP100 1773 is actually more pricey right now than a 686 6". The 6" are always less desirable and typically are cheaper for it. So you know the market is off right now for buying. A GP100, in 10 years prior to covid, never once was priced more than the exact same set up 686. Ever.
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It's been a while, but here are some thoughts on the GP100 vis a vie a S&W:
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6604401&postcount=9
As far as a 7-shot, I never got the appeal. When I was shooting a lot, a 6-shot was more versatile and had better speedloader options, and if I wanted more capacity, I could go with an 8-shot N-frame. JMO.
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6604401&postcount=9
As far as a 7-shot, I never got the appeal. When I was shooting a lot, a 6-shot was more versatile and had better speedloader options, and if I wanted more capacity, I could go with an 8-shot N-frame. JMO.
wild cat mccane
New member
8 shot cylinder is rather huge in appearance though. I like the looks of the 627 from the side much more than the special versions of the 686. One of the few I went to purchase in person rather than over the net...looking straight down from the back...cylinder is quite beefy. It made me pass that time. Agree it has it's appeal though.
S&W 627 N frame is usually 300 more than the 686...
S&W 627 N frame is usually 300 more than the 686...
wild cat mccane
New member
One last negative on the GP100, and I've had a few, they all have had a two stage feel in double action when pulling slow. There is a very long cam/creep when the hammer is full rear...pull...pull..falls. Even with a Wilson spring kit, didn't change that.
I like the S&W double action is full pull same weight, wall, next nano second of a pull if falls.
I like the S&W double action is full pull same weight, wall, next nano second of a pull if falls.
Super Sneaky Steve
New member
I own probably 30 revolvers and the 6" GP100 is my favorite handgun.
highpower3006
New member
Maybe I should just buy both a 686 and the GP100
This is always the best solution.
I may be a bit too old school, but I have never had any desire to have a revolver with more than a six shot cylinder. If you are planning to shoot hot loads in your gun it seems to me that it would be advisable to have as strong a chamber as possible.
I have seen guns with the cylinder blown apart from excessive loads. So in my opinion, I would want my gun to have as much metal as it can if I was shooting hot magnum loads.
Prof Young
New member
I went with six . . .
I have the GP 100, but in six shots. I considered buying the seven shot but found so many bad reviews on line that I went with the six. Easily one of my most favorite guns.
Life is good.
Prof Young
I have the GP 100, but in six shots. I considered buying the seven shot but found so many bad reviews on line that I went with the six. Easily one of my most favorite guns.
Life is good.
Prof Young
Montana Jon
New member
You will enjoy it, I've owned two GP100 6" revolvers... sold one and traded the other to a guy who wanted the half lug GP100 for his Match Champion 4.2" which I carry EDC.