Ruger GP100 trigger guard assembly

napg19

New member
I bought this GP100 new and wanted to clean the inside assembly and lube it. Normally this assembly should come out with some resistence ( at least it worked that way on a SP101 I had) not to where i needed to take a hammer and screwdriver to the trigger guard lock plunger inside of the rear of trigger guard and pull and pry on trigger guard with enough force to give myself a hernia. I don't like the idea of sending gun back to ruger after there quick fix solution they have on previous thread about rear sight cross pin. I'm considering have a local gun smith see if he can mill or grind here and there to make it come out easier. I don't think revolvers get dirty enough inside to be stripped down after a couple hundred rounds at range, but would appreciate all comments on this problem. Thanks.
 
Realistically, you could shoot a revolver your whole life and maintain it adequately without ever disassembling it at all.

But the gun should come apart without requiring "heroic" effort.

My suspicion is that there's something fouling the channel of the trigger return spring. That spring also tensions the plunger that holds the triggerguard assembly in place.

Is the problem that the plunger can't be depressed (or can't be depressed enough) or that the plunger depresses easily but the triggerguard assembly won't come out when the plunger is depressed?

If it's the former, then the channel needs to be checked to see what's causing the plunger/spring to bind. If it's the latter then maybe a skilled gunsmith could work the problem of helping it to fit better without making it fit loosely.
 
It is the latter. I can take the plunger and all the other parts completely out of trigger guard and still have problem getting trigger guard in and out of frame. I will have a gun smith look at it. Other than that it has a smooth trigger and shoots great. Thanks. Much appreciated.
 
BP revolvers are the only ones I ever take apart to just clean.
If they need repair, then that's different.
Just remove the grips, open the cylinder and soak in mineral spirits with an occasional shake.
Then brush whatever can be brushed, followed by either brake cleaner or compressed air.
Dribble some lube where it needs to be and it's done.
Works even for the dirtiest revolver.
Almost as good as a parts cleaning set up.
(I miss my parts cleaner).
Yeah, I'm lazy but there's no arguing with success.
 
It seems to me that I have read of this problem before. I think they had to drill out (clean up the hole) in the lock plunger, as it had a ledge in it, that would snag the spring. It was a manufacturing defect of the plunger. The tight fit, I would venture to guess, is another, where the frame was milled a shade to narrow, or the trigger guard a shade too thick. That can be easily cleaned up, using layout blue (to find where its rubbing), a file, and a stone on the trigger guard housing.
 
Check the plunger for burrs.
Check the plunger hole for burrs.

You might want to get a screwdriver from a garage sale, pawn shop or flea market and grind and bend it (90 degrees or so) so as to make a special tool with enough leverage to push the plunger in. ;)
 
Thanks everyone for the response's.
These all will be looked into on the gun. Thanks for the video.
Like everyone else I enjoy working on my firearms. Thanks again.
 
If you are patient and methodical, you can probably fix the problem yourself.

Get some kind of marker and mark the surfaces that are likely to touch when the trigger guard assembly is installed. The install it and remove it and look for the spots where the marker rubbed off. Use a fine stone or a fine sandpaper backed with something hard and flat to take off a very tiny bit of metal and then try it again. Go slowly. You can take off more but it's hard to put it back on if you take off too much.

Or you can just ignore it. As rarely as the gun really needs to be disassembled, having to wrestle with it a bit during disassembly isn't that big a deal. As long as you can get it apart, it's better for it to be a little too tight than a little too loose, IMO.
 
FWIW, those Ruger How its made videos are excellent; not extreme detail but enough to spoil the illusion some seem to have of the old master gunsmith hand filing YOUR gun out of a block of steel.

Jim
 
The plunger is tapered and is under spring pressure. They can be difficult to take apart. Use a small punch and tap it wit a hammer, it will come loose.
 
^^^^^^^this

I have had many gp100s and the first time getting the trigger guard assembly out is always the hardest. I generally have to get a long punch down the slot on the grip post that they give you for depressing the trigger assembly pin and tap it with a light mallet. Do this a few times until it moves back and forth more easily with appropriate pressure. Then depress it with the punch and pull down on the trigger assembly.
If the trigger assembly still won't come out then you need more pressure than your hands can deliver. There is a small triangular space above the trigger assembly between the grip post the rest of the frame and the trigger assembly post. Insert another punch into this space and then while depressing the trigger assembly pin, pry downward with the punch in this space. It will come right out.
Don't worry about scratching anything when you do this as all the pressure points are covered by the grip and contain no moving parts.
BTW, once you get the trigger assembly out do not pull the trigger unless you want to disassemble the whole trigger assembly and it is a royal pain to get it back together.
Good luck.
 
Thanks again for the tips. I'm going to try these without going too far and loose the tightness.
Very true though about not haveing to ever take a revolver down that far unless a spring broke. Thanks again.
 
Back
Top