Ruger GP100 questions

L

leadcounsel

Moderator
I'm in the market for a .357 for HD. I want something durable and reliable. I"m considering a new or used Taurus, Rossi, etc. However, I found a Ruger GP100 in good to very good condition. It's stainless with 4" barrel. The only drawback seems to be its has a concealed hammer and is double action only, for $230.

For those more experienced with revolvers, is having the ability to shoot in double or single action a significant advantage? I expect that in a shooting all revolver shots would probably be double action only? Would it be expensive to change a concealed hammer revolver into a standard revolver with a hammer which is cockable?
 
Lead, all revolvers are intented to be shot DA only except of course SA only revolvers. When cocked, most revolvers have a light trigger pull. Too light to walk around the house with if confronted by bad guys. Also, if you do cock the revolver, then you must decock it later which is not advised. Shooting a DA revolver quickly and accurately can be challenging because of the long trigger pull. Takes a lot of practice. Check over the GP 100 closely. Check the space between the cylinder and the forcing cone. I can't remember the spacing but there should'nt be too much of gap or too loose. Check the timing and the lockup. All should be tight and uniform. The GP 100 is a great gun. If that one is in good shape, $230 is not a bad price. But because it is only $230, I would check it over real good.
 
Lead,

Over the last year, a good many used, RCMP, four-inch, stainless, half-lug, DAO GP-100s have been on the market. Given the reliability, durability, quality, and accuracy of the GP-100 series, these are great values (if they are in excellent condition, as almost all are). Double Action only is NOT a deficiency, except, perhaps, for bulls-eye target shooting; for defensive use/carry, DAO is perfectly fine. In fact, I suspect the RCMP specified this design to enhance safety (longer/heavier trigger pull, since SA use is precluded).
 
I would buy the ruger.

I think with just a different hammer change you can go back to having the normal operation of a revolver but maybe you would need to do something to the trigger group as well? A normal hammer will have the thumb stud and a groove cut in it to allow the hammer to come back and hold things in place. But I have never done it so I am not sure what you might need, but a ruger is easy to work on so I doubt it would be too expensive.

I have stopped cocking the hammer on my revolvers because I was using it as a crutch, basically it takes a lot of rounds to learn how to shoot a double action revolver well.

If I was buying a gun to go hunting with, I would cock the hammer I reckon. Same goes with competition like bullseye or whatever. But I don't compete and if I go hunting with a revolver I will take a single action revolver.

I have a 3 inch ruger gp100 and I love it. The revolver is rock solid and I bought mine used and would not have a problem buying another one used.

I do recomend you read the sticky at the top of this forum so you can see how to check out a used revolver and make sure you are getting a good one.

Dang, now I want to go get one of these nicely used rugers since I want the 4 inch barrel.
 
Ruger makes an excellent revolver. The GP100 is very strong and reliable. The GP100 is really good when you want to use full-house Magnum loads. I don't see the advantage of being able to cock the trigger in a home defense setting. Cocking of the trigger is mainly useful for hunting when you need to place a good shot at 50+ yds.
 
Last hammer I bought for a GP was about $22 delivered as I recall. From time to time Numrich and Ebay have them listed. It was a drop in change. If one wants a tuned single action (hammer cocked) letoff then a pistolsmith can reduce creep and trigger pull. The other alternative which is more expensive (shipping costs) would be to send the gun back to Ruger.

Aside from that don't have anything to add not said above.
 
Thanks for the feedback. It won't be my first revolver or .357, but it will be my first Ruger and my first hammerless. I am also guily of cocking the revolver at the range and it's a crutch. Everyone seems to love this gun so I think I'll plot down my $ and get one too. In fact, it'll be an online purchase from a company and the price is $230 for one or $218 each for 2 or more, so I may buy multiples and use one for a trade down the road. It also comes with a speadloader and a holster. Described as "very good" condition. So, I think it's a great deal.

I think I'll NOT modify the hammer and learn to shoot it DO.

Thanks again.
 
Another quick question. The price for the Ruger GP100, 4" SS very good condition, hammerless with speedloader and cheap holster is $230 for one or $218 each for two or more.

I understand this is an excellent handgun with an excellent reputation. I definately want one, but don't need two. I am deciding whether to get a second one and use it in a trade down the road. To that end, how much could I realistically expect to sell it for privately or trade it in for something at a dealership? I am hoping that it will have at least a $300 value for trades, is that realistic? Thanks
 
I traded my GP-100 4" for $290.00 in perfect shape. I figure if I had a personal buyer I could get a bit more for it. Probably $300-350 max. I would say between $290-320.00 would be the most realistic...depending on its condition.

I guess it just depends on how much money you find in the investment and if you honestly can part with that money and wait to see if you've made the right choice. If you feel no pain in buying both, might as well...or just use the extra $200 towards another wheelgun. That's what I would do. I'm saving up for a S&W 640 and a 625.

Good luck.
 
As someone who buys and sells revolvers, I don't mess with either the SP-101 or the GP-100. IMHO there is not enough profit margin with Rugers, even when you find one in 99% condition. So you're probably going to make the purchase and trade for less, or sell to break even...

But being the Lead Counsel I'm sure you already knew that!!!;)

Having said that, I'm a proud owner of a GP-100 and a Police Security Six.
 
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Bullrock and others: Thanks for your input. I'm guessing that if I did buy two for $220, it would be an additional $25 for the FFL and also some $ for shipping. My total investment would probably be around $260-280. If I could get the gun without the FFL fee or shipping costs, I think I could make a few bucks. But with the FFL and shipping I agree that I'd probably break even or lose money on the transaction and have to wait to do it.
 
Lead ,the gun you are looking at does it have the full shroud or half shroud? Reason I ask is if it has the full shroud its a good price.If it has the half shroud it sounds like it is one of those Canadian Police trade ins.It will be marked with C.A.I on the side if it is.The police trade ins go for around 200 in my area.My dealer just picked one up the other day. I bought one for 200 bucks too.They are very good guns and if you are happy with the price buy it.I just wanted to let you know before you bought 2 and lost money on the second one.
 
That's a decent price on the gun. Figure that the final price will probably include another $50 to take the transfer fee and shipping into account.

Putting another hammer on the revolver to get the SA capability back may be more difficult than you think. Ruger won't sell the hammers, and they may or may not be willing to do the change for you since their policy is to only return guns to factory condition.

SA is a liability in SD/HD, in my opinion. The last thing you need in the middle of and in the aftermath of a scary situation is to have a cocked and loaded revolver in your hand. Decocking a revolver is not hard, but it's just one more chance to screw up. And some people believe that an SA pull is too light in a SD/HD scenario--I don't know if I believe that part though.

I don't think you can make any money by buying two and selling one of them. I've seen these revolvers for sale at a local shop for $250 out the door. You won't be able to beat that at the price you posted unless you get a tremendous break on shipping and your transfer fee.

The half-shroud is mostly cosmetic, but some people say that the half-shroud causes the gun to balance better in the hand. I prefer the full shroud since the extra forward weight theoretically reduces muzzle flip a bit. It's not much of a difference either way.

It's a solid gun and a great choice for HD/SD, but don't buy one as an investment and don't buy one with the intent of modifying it. (Just my 2cents). ;)
 
Thanks everyone for the excellent advice. I checked at my local gunstore and they said they would purchase one from me for around $190-200. So, obviously by buying it at $220+ shipping and FFL transfer I'd be losing... A second one might be good for a straight trade locally but I think that the odds and hassel are just too great... So, one Ruger it is.

I appreciate everyones' input.
 
Lead,

I used to be a dyed in the wool auto fan. I got into reloading and them decided that I was tired of chasing my brass. Revo's got the nod, starting with a 6" GP100. Fantastic gun with brute strength, a decent trigger (not great, but decent), and excellent accuracy.

I discovered that I much prefer shooting revo's now.

Just this year I made a dedicated effort to learn how to shoot DA accurately. I started with my GP100 and graduated to a recently purchased S&W 625. About 3,000 rounds later (your mileage may vary) I now have reached a point where I don't even bother with SA shooting anymore. My accuracy is now more dependent on the quality of my benchrest more than anything else. IF I am at the longgun range with a sandbagged rest - well, SA is the option to use.

ANYTHING at my local indoor range (50 feet or less) is all DA. I mean, quite literally, of the last 3,000 rounds (as counted with my reloading data) over 2,800 of them have all been DA. I am cutting 2" controlled fire groups at 25 feet (think, 6 shots, 6 seconds) and under 4" groups at 50 feet in a two-hand unsupported hold.

DA is NOT a detriment once you learn the long trigger pull.

Best part of a GP100 is the transfer bar safety. You can pretty much dry-fire it to your hearts content. I spent countless hours dry-firing at the TV. Practice makes perfect and it doesn't hurt the weapon.
 
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